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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 28
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 28
Hello --

I just rebuilt the Carter W-1 carb. on my '46 2Ton (235.) I got the kit from one of the suppliers that seems to be highly regarded here on Stovebolt and indeed it seemed to be first rate. I'm far from the best carb man but using a reprinted period manual and the instructions in the kit things seemed to go pretty well.

I got the carb. back on the truck and sure enough she fired right up and ran fine -- except -- the carb. now spits gasoline upward past the accelerator pump arm where it comes through the top of the carb. It only does this when the engine is not running; when running even a quick, full depression of the accelerator results in no leakage and a proper, aggressive engine response.

Perhaps I'm using improper technique but it's always been my habit with older gasoline trucks to 'tromp' on the accelerator one or two times before cranking for a cold start. I'd really prefer not to have a teaspoon of gasoline dribbling down over the carb and manifold in the process.

Any ideas on what I messed up? Thanks in advance

Pete P.
Harborcreek, Penna.

Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 123
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 123
Just a guess here, maybe the accelerator pump is pumping too strong.. hitting on the butterfly and splashing out. Maybe adjust it? It will probably be okay with the air cleaner on (?)


Chuck

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
A few Harleys and '76 Triumph Bonneville

Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 28
P
'Bolter
'Bolter
P Offline
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 28
Unfortunately it's not ejecting gasoline up the carb throat but rather right up alongside the accelerator pump linkage. I'm hoping that the new seals just need to swell up a bit -- maybe a drop of light oil is in order. I'm fearing that I damaged the accelerator pump piston skirt somehow. I inspected the accel. pump cylinder bore before reassembly and didn't feel or see any gouges but I suppose that wear in the cylinder bore could create a leak too.

I think I'll try a few drops of ATF on that cork shaft seal and see if things improve.

Wish me luck,

Pete

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,766
C
Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
C Offline
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,766
If you got the kit from us, the accelerator skirt would be leather. Leather skirts should be expanded slightly and OILED prior to installation.

If you got the kit elsewhere, there is a wholesale vendor that makes these accelerator pumps WITH THE WRONG EXPANDER SPRING!

We buy the pumps from the vendor, diassemble the pumps, remachine the pump thimble, and insert the correct expander spring (Carter number 61-25), which must be a much stronger spring than the one used on the neopreme skirts. The pump as received from the wholesaler has the weaker spring for neopreme.

I have informed the vendor, but they don't wish to retool for no more market than exists, so continue to sell them as is.

As for the oil on the leather, neatsfoot oil, 3 'n' 1 oil (or I use the wife's Singer sewing machine oil) all may be used.

Jon


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,805
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Online: Content
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,805
Pumping the gas is not particularly helpful, even for cold starting. If you've got an automatic choke, pushing the pedal down once, gently, will allow the choke plate to close and the fast idle cam to index. Half of the throttle travel or less is plenty. Then just crank the engine until it fires, and let the fast idle take over.

For manual chokes, it's even simpler. Pull the choke knob out all the way, crank, and push the knob in partway once the engine fires to prevent flooding and stalling. A few cold starts will educate you on how much relief from full choke you need to get a smooth warmup.
Jerry


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