The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk tapered wheel bearing P/N ????? on AD disc conversion

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It seems SO VERY FRUSTRATING to me that we [you guys as well as me] have to wait days on a tapered wheel inner and outer bearing.

i had a front wheel bearing fail and it seems that all P/N were ground or scraped off the tapered wheel bearings on the kits bought at any one of these aftermarket parts suppliers. every one I called said they didn't have or know the bearing P/N.

i did the conversion about 10 plus yrs ago and was not able then nor now to get the p/n ???

they '''

Well I only need one set NOT both, but it appears I'm now stuck with buying a SET for TWO AXLES !!!!!

Does ANY body know those part numbers ??? we mic'd the one we had and NAPA can't get the correct bearing off the dimensions given. the ones that came were wrong.

Have you tried Classic performance parts? They have the set for two wheels for $95, I don't know if they will sell one? I have had this set of tapered rollers going on 2 years and drive my truck almost every day and no problemos.... Good luck!

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NOBODY sells just one wheel [ i.e. one inner and one outer bearing ]
''they won't break up a set''

brothers has them on sale

BUT

MY question is not where or who

BUT
WHAT IS THE INNER / OUTER bearing and seal P/N ?? anybody know?
did anybody get a set where the vendor didn't remove the bearing # like
the one vendor i bought my kit from 12 yrs ago ??

I do restorations on lots of antique mechanical stuff. The one thing I can tell you is automotive parts suppliers (and marine suppliers and farm equipment suppliers) Don't know anything about bearings! They only know part numbers.

Do what I do and knock out the bearing race and take the bearing or what's left of it, to your local bearing and gear supplier.
If there is any kind of a number anywhere (like on the outer race) that helps, but not necessary.

All the seals as well.
If your guy is good, all he needs is the ID of the bearing, OD of the race and width.

When I rebuild a farm tractor that would have all the bearings available on line, I still buy everything from the bearing shop. You never get cheap Chinese bearings with the numbers removed from a guy who's reputation is built on selling good bearings.

Numbers like this are said to be the "old" numbers which no one can find. "R" for roller. 909052R 909067R. I believe they made sure that you could not just buy anywhere. Probably a good business strategy. Anyhow don't knock yourself out. If you find those bearings anywhere, they will be "off-shore" for sure. If one failed, it's time to replace both with all new stuff. Spindle damage is very expensive.

Take $95 minus what you may pay...
for one set. That is how much you...
save every 10 years after screwing...
around for 40 hours trying to find them

BURMA-SHAVE

Hy carolines truck and guys, bartamos kind of beat me to this. carolines truck, I did look through your pictures but I couldn't find any disc brake conversion pictures. I don't know if your conversion used the stock hubs or not. Years ago I inherited a bunch of aftermarket catalogs, a few of them were Bower/BCA bearings and National oil seals catalogs. The 1973 catalog number 510 listed "tapered replacement" bearing part numbers under the standard ball bearing part numbers. The front wheel inner bearing part number for Chevy 1/2 ton trucks from 1946 to 1959 is B-52 (ball bearing), the tapered replacement part number is 909052-R. The outer bearing part number for Chevy 1/2 ton trucks from 1946 through 1957 is B-01 (ball bearing), the tapered replacement part number is 909001-R. I must be honest, I have tried to order these in the past through my local parts store, but have always gotten a "nothing available". But there may be some sitting on a shelf somewhere, and at least you know there was a north American manufacturer of these parts at one time, hope that helps.

THANK YOU 3B & bart

well said Jim......


i ordered the set already Bart, i understand but you'd think if i was 500 miles from home, on the road ... why couldn't i just go buy them in town instead of waiting 3 days for the post to arrive by horse ?


i used the stock hubs
the drums are removed along with the round tinny piece. the disc sandwiches the hub by a thinnish plate on one side and the disc on the other. 3 flathead countersunk allen headed screws secure the stock hub between the two. they use the 3 drum rivet holes to do this , no hub drilling is done/needed. you can either leave the old ball roller bearing - inner & outer in situ or knock them out and do a tapered bearing change /conversion.

READ 3B's comment above .........
not available ....... Hummmmmm ???

we took the old bearings out and mic'd them and we could get close but ''NO CIGAR'' . 14 thou too wide. id too small, race to narrow. as I said close but NOT ...... and NOT just don't work to gOOd in this case. those would not match up as far as the NAPA guy could. ......... now maybe he's a jurk and can't figure it right. maybe i should have gone to a bearing supply house, but i didn't . i spent all day yesterday finding an old stock hub to reuse,, because when the bearing 'went' ........... it distorted my hub.

no i was not driving, caroline was. .. good thing it didn't fail on the freeway and slam her into somebody or something. just a road by the bank to the corner gas/garage, about a long block. yeap! we still have a couple in this small town. lucky for her. basically the only thing holding the wheel to the axle was the fact the disc was held in the caliper.

so that's where i am now. i ordered the bearings from brothers as they had a sale going and it saved me $50.00 . gosh these things aren't cheap like the old days.

all i'm saying is ''why' did the vendor, ..... you fill in the one _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ grind off the bearing # unless they only want you to buy from one of them. it is VERY CLEAR that the # was ground off b4 it was repackaged and sold/sent out ! ! ! ! !

it's NOT likely that each vendors has these conversions made just for them. they are made by one or possibly 2 manufacturers and sold in large lots to ALL of the vendors,

it urks me this was done this way. vent vent.

i was hoping one of you got a conversion kit that the bearing # was not removed.

i'll try and match ..... AGAIN...... [ unless they are chinese @@@ ] after the new bearing set comes and get back to this thread with all correct #'s. I'm all for keeping records and passing good info back and forth so we're ALL safe and we can ALL enjoy or rides ........... HOME

@@@ - case in point about re-pops, i bought a repp light switch from a good solid vendor only to have the light switch LITERALLY fall apart in my hand as i transferred half the wires on the 51. i took photos and sent them back to the vendor and said don't sell [censored] like this to any of the blotters or you be out of business sooner than you think.

if they want to make money off us ...... DON"T sell us crap.

jim

and if they are ''OLD #'s'' why can these vendors find them and you and I can't ??

This discussion should be in Electric Bay.

Thanks.

Glad you have them coming. Some guys have addressed the issue of being on the road with no way of getting replacement bearings. They have chosen to do some sort of 5 lug swap using standard GM tapered rollers from some newer era. Don't know specifics. But Mr. Google will know.
Re: "Old" Numbers, It's the actual bearing that they can't find not the number...and of course, the vendors or their supplier erase the number so you can't go around them. We have all had parts from vendors that were defective or didn't fit. Sometimes you can modify them yourself or, if not, return them. The proof of a good vendor is how easy it is to return. I have also gotten bad parts when fixing things around the house/yard. Such is life in the outsourcing world.

Those old things ran a long time with the old BCA B 52 and B 01 bearings with the sorry grease we had in those days. I see B 52 and B 01 bearings on eBay all the time. They might be sold under different brands, but the BCA number was the standard in those days. I feel much more comfortable with NOS stuff than Chinese junk. There is nothing wrong with ball bearings.

I agree, we all get shakey about the price of orig but never realize we can't buy replacements for the kits out on the road. One side at O'Reilly's is 120 yen. More than a kit for both sides. It's a no blainer. I have purchased SKF, Timken, National,...all were off shore or Mexico marked.
BCA now owned by NTN "a Global bearing supplier". One of the their plants is in Elgin, Illinois, USA. That's promising. 8 total plants in U.S., Canada and ?. This does not mean that bearing components are not made off shore or Mexico. Some of their Vice presidents are Japanese. Japan makes very high quality machined parts for many applications, not at all compared to Chinese. The U.S. and Canada are very high on the ladder. China getting better due to North American pressure and guidance. Very slowly.

There are dimensions for the B01 and B52 wheel bearings in the Photobucket link in my signature (see bearing folder in the trucks folder). Pretty sure the outer WB can be replaced with a tapered roller from a late 70's Camaro. That's why the 5 lug conversion only needs a sleeve for the inner bearing.

The inner bearing is the tough one and MBS makes their 909052R, but good luck trying to buy one outside of a set from the suppliers.

You're not going to find them at any auto parts stores. I agree with bartamos.
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have an extra set on hand.


Tim

well i'll have at least one wheel set as spare on the shop shelf


MY BEARINGS ARE a/o 3/2015

.. >> SMALL 909067 R
.. >> LARGE 909052 R


thx
gents
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