The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Painting steel wheels

I have some new steel wheels for my 1957 Chevy NAPCO project. When I paint them, is there anything to watch out for on the inside where the tire bead contacts the rim? I can't tell if there was much or any paint on the inside of the original rims. I am also trying to find out if the original wheels should have been painted body color or black. I've seen both, but I'm leaning toward body color...Granite Gray.
Thanks for any ideas.
Larry

As long as you don't get too much paint buildup on the bead area, it'll be fine. Even factory wheels are painted inside originally. The only time problems arise is if the paint is applied too thick, which can make it difficult to get the tire to seat properly. Ran into that a few times with wheels that were repainted, had to buff them down in the bead to get the tires to seat. But those wheels had excessive coats of paint on them.

Thank you, Bill. I was thinking of scuffing the bead area with some scotch brite. I'll also go easy on the paint.
Larry

I did all 5 of my steel rims with Urethane gloss black. Before the gloss black, epoxy primer, then epoxy sealer. Go as thick as you want. Urethane is so sticky, there is no worries at all about bead problems. All 5 of mine have been holding air for months now. Nothing to worry about if you prepare the metal correctly in the first place.

Deve, thank you. Do you know if the wheels came either black or body color as an option? My truck is a 1957 1/2 ton. When I bought the truck 30 years ago, it had a fresh repaint and the wheels were black, but I've seen trucks of that era with body color wheels. Also, do you use a particular kind of spray rig? I have an HVLP gun that I need to use more, and I think the wheels would be a good project since they have so many curves.

Larry

Larry,

Check page 75 on the 1957 truck specifications from the GM Herritage center:
https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/do...hevrolet-Trucks/1957-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf

It specifies wheels should be body color for two-tone paint. In a quick review of 1957, I didn't find what non-two tone painted truck wheels should be. However, I know in 1959 the specifications say black for solid color trucks and body color for two tone. I'll bet it is the same for 1957.

Bob

Bob. Thanks for pointing me to that resource. I actually have it and have used it for mechanical specs. I never noticed that page. You have made my older son happy since he was voting for black wheels and I am painting the body a single color. Onward!

Larry

Deve. That wheel looks great. What kind of hub is that? Thanks.

Larry

The rims are WheelSmith 6 lug 15 inch designed to work with front disc brakes. The hub is part of the brake rotor kit from Brothers.

Not to argue with you, Deve, but the problem we encounters was not leakage, but rather than the paint was simply so thick on the wheel that it increased the diameter enough to prevent the tire from even seating. no matter how much lube we put on it, and how much pressure we went (we stopped at 60 psi), the ties simply would not seat. After grinding down the paint, tires went right on. With the method you describe, maybe 2 coats of each, should be fine and not cause any bead seating problems.

I also bought my wheels from Wheelsmith. I'm building a NAPCO 4x4 truck, and my wheels are 16" X 6", but I'm guessing the back spacing is different since I'm staying with drum brakes. Anyway, you've given me a high standard to aim for on the paint.

Larry

I think I just got lucky Bill. I had no idea that would ever be an issue. But I have always heard that a person needs to keep their paint substrates to about 5 mils. A very good point to make for those who haven't painted their rims yet.

The paint on the wheels I was dealing with at least .030" thick.

I feel for you.. sandblasting, sanding with 220 directly after sandblasting really smooths the metal, then 1 coat of Epoxy Primer. Really you could just go directly to topcoat from there. But what I do is sand that epoxy primer with 400, then hit it with Epoxy sealer. Then Black Urethane topcoat (two coats). Not alot of substrate, but very sticky, and very smooth.

I had mine powdercoated and mounted with no issues. If you can afford or have access to someone who can powdercoat it may be another viable avenue.
Dan

I think I'll be painting since I am set up to do that, but some of the powder coat I've seen looks very good. My project is what some call a restification or a quality rebuild, not a full on restoration. I'm using a 1964 327 V8 in it and the wheels aren't totally correct. It will be a driver, and I've touched every nut and bolt several times. All of the mechanical pieces are being rebuilt by me. The body and paint part is a question mark. I'll at least do the initial paint removal and what little body work it needs. I want a nice paint job, but not one that means I can't use the truck as a truck. Sorry, this is veering off topic.

Larry