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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 116 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 116 | Does anyone have photos or could help me figure out how to remove the tranny from the torque tube. I tried removing as much grease that encased both parts. I just want to make sure I remove it correctly without damaging one or the other.
1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup 1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 37 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 37 | Try cleaning the torque tube real good just behind the ball collar. I also used fine emery cloth & WD40 to really clean it up. I also unbolted and removed the cross support from the frame rails and this allowed me to lower the torque tube out of the way after I removed the ball collar, and it gives you more working room, so I could pull the trans out easier. Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the collar to the rear of the trans and start wiggling it back, or tap it with a deadblow hammer while rotating it with a pipewrench, worked for me. After you get some separation you can use a large screw driver and gently slide the bell back. Then bend the tabs that hold the 4 u-joint bolts and remove the bolts. Then you should be able to slide the u-joint off, apart, and out. If you are removing the trans, go buy some bolts that will thread into the top trans to bellhousing holes, only get longer ones, I used 3" and cut the heads off. They carry the weight of the trans as you slide it out past the throwout bearing. Remove your top bolts, install the new longer ones and "then" remove the 2 bottom bolts inside by the flywheel last. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2009 Posts: 639 | Also, it's a good idea to place a jack stand under the torque tube. When you pull the u-joint apart the torque tube will be forced down because of the way the rear end pivots. It's not a LOT of force, but it's enough to smash a finger or give you a nasty pop upside the head. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 116 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2013 Posts: 116 | How about some suggestions on getting 60 years of caked on grease off. I got some off but a lot of it is really tough to get off. What should I use?
As for the tranny, at this time I have the engine out and the tranmission seems to be loose from the drive shaft. I'm a beginner so I don't know too much about some of the things you mentioned above. I'm just trying to get a better visual. I'll be heading back into the garage a little later to work on it again.
Let me ask, I received a 4 speed transmission out of a 51 panel truck. Would that be able to work with this drive shaft? or should I just stick with the original 3 speed it came with?
1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup 1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 37 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2012 Posts: 37 | By the way, I forgot to mention to unscrew the rear retainer off of the ball collar before trying to slide it back.Try a hacksaw blade laid flat and slice off the grime or an old wood chisel and patience on the caked up grease and grime. I think your 4 speed will be the open drive type, with u-joints exposed. That will not work with your torque tube. If you can get the rearend and driveshaft that was with the 4 speed trans and that should work, but then you get into what kind of shocks are on the donor rearend. If they are both knee action type it could work. Let me vision this, engine is out, trans and torque are still in. If the trans is bolted to the frame cross support, it should work like we suggested. After you get the rear of the ball collar unscrewed just work it/slide it back. Unbolt everything as above and the trans should be free. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | Getting old dried gunk off is never easy or fun. Stuff I have tried. Scrapers and Putty knives. Dental picks in small tight locations(think bolt and case). Some solvents, like WD-40, Diesel fuel, and even the stuff from the paint shop for removing grease and wax during prep. It works, but it will burn so be safe. Lots of scraping, wiping and soap and water. No short cuts that I know of. The reward for all of this? You can still use the tools when you are done. You might be let back into the house to wash up. And, last but not least, less to clean up before reassembly.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | As suggested, use paint scrapers, putty knives, etc to get most of the big chunks off. The tube right behind the ball collar needs to be really clean in order to slide the retainer back.
If the motor is out, I assume the cross member is still in place. Were you planning to use a engine hoist thru the passenger's doorway to support the gear box as you start loosening things up?
Take your time and keep in mind how heavy items can be during the removal process. As mentioned above, support the torque tube before you disconnect the U-Joint for it will have a downward force.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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