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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,139 Posts1,056,455 Members48,441 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 13 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 13 | I want to replace the wooden floor in my 50 suburban. I want to go back with a stronger wood than was there. Is there anyway to take the original floor out intact so I can make a pattern for the new floor. The best I can tell from how it's bolted in is that it has to come from the bottom. Thanks in advance for any info.....
Anthony McCants
1950 Chevy Suburban
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | 89cutlass,
I am not sure that all 1947.5-1955.5 Suburban rear floors are the same. If your suburban floor is a single piece of plywood (as it is in 1954), it can only be removed (in one piece) in an upward direction. The sidewals below the floor curve inwards and prevent removal in a downwards direction.
You will have to remove the right-angled retainer (ledge) from one side of the interior. This is spot-welded directly aboove the floor (at least 28 spot welds). With the retainer removed from one side, the floor can be angled upwards and removed. I have never done this but have talked with two other people who have.
You say you want to go with a stronger wood - that plywood seems quite strong (if you have plywood).
Tim | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 44 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 44 | I just went through this last weekend on my 54. Once I got the retainer from the right side off, I found it near impossible to lift it out. It was binding on the other side. Solution, I took my circular saw right down the middle. I still have my wood for the template. 1954 Chevy 3100 Panel Truck 2004 GMC Yukon 2002 Chevy 1500 4X4 "Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigues of supporting it." Thomas Paine, The American Crisis, No. 4, September 11, 1777
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Releasing the bonded side might be assisted by heating the metal lip (I used a heat gun) while sliding at thin putty knife under the metal edge. Mine dropped free of the metal edge.
Tim | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 19 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 19 | 89cutlass,
Prior to sending my 48 Suburban to Redi-Strip I removed my wood floor like 3100 did - cut it straight down the middle and took the halves out. The two halves make an excellent patern. The plywood used was/is 5/8" marine grade which can be found in a sheet large enough for 1 piece replacement(the price to buy and have it shipped to you might cause you some discomfort) for those who take out the welded on side angles. To reinstall after cutting out in two pieces get two sheets 5/8" a/c(this grade has fewer voids than less expensive grades) plywood, oak if you like, route and join the centers(factory edges) with a hardwood floor spline and glue. I highly recommend dry fitting prior to the glue and spline and install. A couple of handy friends around help also! The "brackets" for mounting original seats can ge routed out and installed after the plywood floor has been installed. Once the wood is in and the underfloor cross sills have been installed the floor should be plenty sturdy.
JohnRJoyner 48 Suburban,55 1st 1/2 ton, 53 GMC
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