The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline huck brake system spongy pedal

1949 chevy 3100

Just got done installing all new wheel cylinders and bleeding lines. In order for my pedal to get tension I have to pump it numerous times. No leaks anywhere. .. all wheels turn about 1 turn then stop when free spinning on Jacks . I replaced one hose on driver side. .. should I go ahead and replace other two even though fluid is getting to all 4 cylinders? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

In my experience, spongy always means there is air present. For the hoses, I think it would be good to replace the other two. As you know, with the Huck setup, each shoe has to be adjusted separately.

I'm with truckernix. The hoses are cheap and pretty easy to change. The other thing I'd mention is the order you're bleeding your brakes. You always start at the furthest wheel from your master based on the run of the brake lines and work your way in - that's left rear, right rear, left front, right front. If you don't work in this order you can end up with trapped air in the lines and a spongy pedal.

Thanks guys... figured that just wanted to be sure. I've already got two more new hoses so I'll start by replacing them and going in the order above! Really appreciate it. First time ever working with huck brakes

It may be the adjustments. Like Nix says there is 2 adjustments on each wheel. They all have right had threads. You have to visoulize the cup to figure which way to turn each one. Tighten the adjustment till the wheel gets real tight. Then back it off 4 notches. You may have a little drag but when the shoes seat in, it will go away.

Yeah I've adjusted them so I have slight drag but didn't get them real tight then back off 4 notches. . I'll do that also. Thanks for the tip!

Hucks are notorious for sponginess from being adjusted too loose.
Another variable in the mix is an inevitable mismatch in radius between the shoes and the drum when either or both are changed/turned.
I have found that when you change to new shoes, and have the drums turned, you need to run the brakes on the tight side until the shoes wear a bit until the contour of the shoes becomes worn a bit until they match the contour of the drum.
After driving a while I have noticed that as the shoes wear into shape, the braking action improves. After 100 miles, I then re-adjust the brakes as mentioned in the manual. After all of this, my brakes are as good and reliable as any brakes out there. Keep in mind that Huck brakes are not self-adjusting like Bendix brakes, and therefore require periodic adjustment. You will know when its time, from observing the brake pedal being closer to the toe board when braking.

Carl

Thanks Carl !