The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop newby could use advice

First of all, im happy i found this site because i need some major help. I am the very proud recipient of a 57 3100 that was last licensed in 1966. I think it sat in a field since (grandpa passed in 66). It is pretty rusty throughout but completely intact. I have read several posts on this site and others about rust removal. After I strip it down to the frame (about halfway done) i know I want to get it sandblasted (the frame) and covered with zero-rust. Here's a few of the thousands of questions I have:

Sorry, got cut off somehow.. Anyway, here's some questions for the wise elders out there.. I have rust out above the windshield/below the roof. Looks like a major problem. I have rust out in other areas but have seen patch panels for these areas. Is it possible to repair this kind of problem, or should i look for a donor cab? are there cabs out there for a reasonable price? The hole is about a foot wide. Windshield is still in place(but not useable, shot with pellet guns by nephews) When i say hole, i mean a rusted through place. There is tons of surface rust throughout the cab, as well as every where else. Door's are pretty rough as well. (bottoms rusted out) I know this project is more than a beginner should attempt, but i am very determined to put grandpa's truck back on the road again. Also... has anyone ever heard of a mopar deluxe heater? It was in truck when i saved it. I assume it is not original, probably a dodge unit or something. Thanks for any imput or advice from anyone.

Although the rusted area above the windshield can be replaced with a homemade patch panel I would suggest a cab transplant if you have other areas of rust through. I have located a good 58 cab in a yard in Vernon, Tx that may work for you if the years are interchangeable. I had my eye on it for a future project but I am sure I will come across another in time. It is already stripped and sitting on some old rims. Contact me and I will give you the name of the yard if you want to go that route.

Hey, thx for info. Still undecided about cab. That spot is the only rust through. I guess im gonna talk to a couple body guys in town and see what kind of dinero is involved. About that '58 cab... I'll try to get back to you on that if that becomes my next option. thx for the help.

savin - the 58 cab would be headaches w/ the 57 front sheet metal - 55-57 is what you'd want - that area above the windshield is a real problem, and no patch piece available, but a good bodyman and a bankroll could fix'er up if you don't wanna change cabs - the door bottoms will be the same on nearly all the doors you'd find, and aren't too bad to fix - there are repro door shells now available for the 55-9 and they are perfect, but kinda spendy

heater is no doubt a wreckin yard replacement for the one that quit - gramps truck is definitely worth some effort, and can no doubt be resurrected

Bill

Hey thx Bill. I think I'm just gonna take my cab to a good (hopefully) body man and bite the bullet, unless a good cab falls into my lap somehow. Right now the cab hasn't been removed from the frame yet. I'm gonna take the frame to a sandblaster locally-- can I send the cab also to get blasted without worry of damage? Fenders? Bedsides? Hood? I've read some say do't do the fenders, and others say the metal is thick enough on the fenders to do them. I like the idea of blasting it all, but don't want warped sheetmetal either. What is soda media? Just bought a cheap small sandblaster kit from walmart to mess around with. Figure I could do some of the small stuff with it myself. Anyway, thanks again........I'm lucky enough to have been to Vancouver Island recently (Campbell River). An unbelievably beautiful place you live, sir.

sandblastin sheetmetal is fine if done right, w/ care - soda blast is better if someone there has the setup - make a good rack for the cab to sit on when moving around to prevent damage - hint for sandblastin at home::: keep a shallow angle [not too straight on] and keep moving, don't dwell on one spot for long

Bill

thanks bill. Have you tried the molassis dip? Seems too easy. Have also been thinking about drivetrain issues, although Im still a ways from that. I have the 235/3spd combo. Not running,locked up. With the expense of the 235 rebuild I'm leaning towards a V8. Is there a block that will match up to this 3spd? A 283? I drained the transmission oil and it looked black, which I concluded was good. Should I expect to rebuild the transmission, too? Rearend? Spedometer reads 57,000 miles, which seems right since it was a farm vehicle last driven in the late sixties. The truck was purchased from a local chevy dealer about a year before my grandpa passed. This makes me think everything was in ok shape when it was parked (found a broken rocker arm when I took off the valve cover, thinkin this was why it was parked) I dont know, would you think the rest of the drivetrain would be usable? Should I blast them as well with the sandblaster? Or will they need a rebuild, and I would be better off finding a donor vehicle's auto trans and rear (and 350)? Not worried about keeping things stock. I just have a limited budget right now. Lots of questions, sorry. Thanks for any suggestions

w/ a limited budget it'd be worthwhile to investigate why the 235 is stuck - might be an easy fix and not take much $$$ to make a runner [others here might know more about that] - for the driveline, w/ only 57,000 on it I'd bet everything is fine, tho ya might have some rusty bearings and bad seals here n there

yes, small blocks bolt up to that trans, and w/ an early one [283, most 327's] you can just get repro V8 mounts for the front and everything bolts right up - later ones like 350 need the aftermarket mount that carries the later style side mounts

haven't tried molasses myself, but have heard good reports, for parts small enuff to immerse in the bath - just takes time

Bill

Thanks for the valuable info. That is great news to me. I'm gonna pull the 235 and take it by a local shop and see what they say. I really like the idea of a 327, though. I'm definitely keepin the trans/rear now. Can I blast them, or can I just slap on a coat of zero-rust over their rusty skin? (spray or brush??) Thank you again, I'm sure some of these questions should probably be asked in other forums.

Blasting has saved us hundreds of hours.

We have had everything blasted. All fenders, cab, doors, hood, etc. In the areas where rust was located they used sand - I think they changed to some other product (soda maybe) for paint stripping - I wasn't there.

We had no warping - but it can happen. Overall having the cab alone blasted cost us about $300us.
- Ryan

thx for reply. I'm gonna blast it all, too. That rustout section above windshield has me worried though. Looks real tough to deal with. anyway, how long after the blast do I have to coat it before rust starts to reappear on the fresh metal? I'm looking at zero-rust products for the frame and underneath everything. The cab needs some patch panels for the floor and the steps. Should I blast it first, then repair? (to have fresh metal to weld with) or should I get the repairs done, then blast it? Needless to say, I'm learning as I go. It sure is fun, though. I'm driving my girlfriend crazy cause I researching constantly. Thats just something she'll have to deal with!

Warning: there more be more than one way to go about doing these things. I'll give you my ideas - others may be better!

How long? ASAP!!! Depending on humidity of shop - how many times you touch it, etc. Basically - it will start happening right away. Here in East Wa - Ive had bare metal sitting in my garage for several months with only surface stuff showing where I touched the cab with bare hands. I do not recommend letting it sit long.

Instead of zero rust, you can also shoot with an epoxy primer or self etching primer. Those will serve as a protectant and prep the metal for sandable primer (PPG product called DPLF can be used for bare metal). Given that you are in Arkansas - I would cover that metal the same day you get it home.

Blast first - then weld. That way you know what you're working with. After blasting you may find that some areas are going to be very thin (formerly heavy rust areas) and you would need to be cautious with the welder as to not blow through. If it's not 100% clean prior to this - then you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the material.

To prevent my wife from going mad - all I had to do was put the truck in her name!!! Now all my research and time in the garage turns into time that I'm actually spending for her!!! Of course the agreement is that it is her truck - she will drive - she chooses colors and designs and all the goodies. I just get greasy - well not anymore (it's all new and clean - this is the way working on a rig should be)!

In my link below - you can see the process of what she looks like before and after blasting......

- Ryan

Hey Savin,
Look at Rust Bullet of Texas. They make an automotive blend that is silver and it bonds to rust and kills it. I have used it on the frame, cab, and will eventually coat the bed box and other sheet metal after stripping. This stuff if great because you don't have to thin it. You can shoot it straight out of the can. Any filler needed for body work can be used over the Rust Bullet coating.
Good Luck with your project!
Wes

Thx wes and ryan for replies...I'll check out rust bullet. Sounds like what I'm looking for. I checked out your site, ryan. So thats what fresh metal looks like! Cant wait to get some blastin done. Did you do all of your own bodywork? Im tempted to knock some of the dents out myself after I order some of the correct tools. I also noticed your wife in some of the pictures. I showed my gal and she is somewhat excited to start helpin a little bit. I'm probably going to give her the seat redo job first! Anyway, gonna get some pics of my truck and post-em soon. Then maybe someone can advise me on my cab problems after seeing the windshield area rust. Thx!

Savin,

Yep. Bare metal - it's a pretty sight. But primered metal makes me even more excited.

Yes - that is my wife - it's her truck and she has done much of the work!

I am doing/ have done my own body work. There is a thread over in the body work forumn of this site titled "sheet metal repair" or something like that. MARTINSR makes some outstanding advice as to what tools to purchase.

- Ryan

You want to watch sandblasting rear ends, trannys, and engines unless your planning to disassemble them afterwards. It can be easy to get sand grit in these units.

Was searching the classifieds and found this dont know if it helps or not.

Whoooa! Jeeze i live out here in the East in Rustville Vermont! If I were you living out in "norust" Dryland, I'd just find a solid truck to begin with and start there. Spend a very few more dollars and get a solid truck or body to begin with! What value would your rusttruck have after all the extra hard work and cost? I just don't buy junkers anymore. ( My first few model A's in High school were learning lessons and I spent hours and months and all my allowance on J.C. Whitney postal parts!) Good luck to yah in any event!
"Old Coe" out here in Vermont

Hey thanks panhead pete. Im in contact with the guy about a cab ( and possibly doors as well). Man, are you really in Australia? I bet you have a hard time finding parts down there. Thx for spotting that add for me. Old Coe...The only reason I'm starting with a rusty truck is because it was my grandpa's and it sat outside for 35 years in a field. I told my dad I wanted it when I was 13 (1988), but thats another story. It was in a lot better shape then. If I only would have invested in a #$@^# tarp! Oh well. After a quote from a body guy, looking for a rust free cab is looking like the way to go more and more. Floorboard, kickpanels, steps, windshield area,...what a project!!! Especially for a novice stovebolter....

Savin-gpas57, where's the bad spot above the windshield? Is it the edge of the windshield opening or above that, the visor-looking bottem part of the cab roof, or are both areas rusted through? I'm no body man, but you may be able to get a donor cab, cut out the sections you need and weld them in place of the bad spots.
Someone else may have better ideas. Anyway, good luck and keep us posted. I envy you, having your grandpa's truck to re-do. I was too young to get any of the old vehicles from my family...wish I had one now.
Keep us posted, Jacques

Swampcat...Rust problem is the windshield channel area on top and continues into inside cab. Roof looks fine, but that inner panel is not good. Yeah, having gpas truck means alot. As far as a donor vehicle...I spotted a 57 behind a metal building the other day on the way to the gym. Too far away to get real close look at it, but it has a 57 grill for sure. Looks complete, but not restored by any means. Gonna call the guy today about it...who knows, he might be looking to get rid of it for a few hundred dollars, or he might want 6,000 for it. Never hurts to ask I guess.

bill, could you please tell me what the differences are between the 55-57 cab verses 58 & 9 as i have a 57 cab that i am puting on my 59 and have had no problems thus far. the only diff i have noticed is the hinges have to be off my 59 as well as the batt box. Respectfully, Mark