The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Rearching front leaf springs

I have a 1947 1.5 ton loadmaster. Front leafs have lost their smile, the drivers side in particular. I want to rebush/pin this summer and was wondering anyone's thoughts on rearching the leafs while they were out. What kind of success has anyone had. Is it a waste of time? Should I invest in new ones? I would like the the truck to be a reliable driver but its not going to be worked hard and put away wet. It's in a modest restoration at present, someday who knows.

Dave Parque
I have had some success with re-arching leaf springs on my '57 3100. First time I had it done was years ago (early 70's)& had work done in West Sacramento, CA.
Drove the truck, hauling reasonably heavy loads, for ~150k miles.
Now, in WY, I am in the process of frame up resto & had the springs re-arched in Denver, CO.
Zero miles on them now, but look forward to many miles from them springs hauling no load! Keep those spring eye bushings well lubed.
In my CA days I used to spend a good deal of time in the Susanville/Chester area.
Hope this helps,
delky dave in WYO

What did the re-arching cost?

I just had Albany Spring re-bush and new all new pins for about $250.00 I was hoping they would re-arch but they told me the springs were fine...I am going from a 1 ton front spring (and axle too) to a pair of 1/2 ton...the only issue I am having now is the 1 ton springs measure about and 1" longer eye to eye...I maybe cutting the rear mount out so everything lines up and re-welding it back in so it all fits

Cant wait to get this project out of the garage...and rolling down the road...

MikeC

Thanks delky Dave for the reply. I bought this truck in Westwood in 1977. I had the rear leafs rebushed by johns springs over in Reno Nevada last summer he did good work and reasonable price. I think I'll give him a try rearching the fronts.

Dave Parque
I figured you could find a good spring shop in Reno. They should be able to re-arch and re-bush. A spring shop usually have a good selection and good prices on all the other parts you need to renew the springs---also good source for king-pin stuff, etc.....
Good luck,
delky dave

Dave,

Don't know if this helps or not, but I just got all new springs for my '50 2-ton at St. Louis Spring here in town. With new U-bolts and nuts, it cost about $1000. That's for new fronts, and new rears, with overloads. Personally, I thought it was a good deal, and they had the specs in the book. Very fond of St. Louis Spring - they will gladly give you a quote over the phone - one leaf, one spring set, or all new.

-Michael

It is usually driver side spring that sags. We used to routinely scrounge the junk yards for passenger side springs. On my 300 and 350 GMC's, I rearch them cold in a hydraulic press. But I'm not planning on ever hauling a load with them.

Thanks everyone for the input, I think I will get quotes for rearch compared to new and go from there.

My mechanic was able to re-arch the springs on my '54 3600 without too much difficulty, but he has ha lot of tricky secrets too...

What i really wanted to mention however was his little pearl of wisdom regarding the common drivers side front spring sag problem.

This is caused by that spring pack taking the most abuse from the driver getting in/out and sitting, and many of these old trucks didn't see too many people riding in the passenger side very often, so less wear/sag there.

When my mechanic re-arched my springs, he did an extra 1/4 inch on the drivers side front to basically counter the drivers weight when in the vehicle, and allow the springs to be a little more resistant to flattening back out. This makes the truck ride just a hair higher on that side unloaded, but level when the driver is sitting in it.

If you go the re-arching route it might be something to consider. It sounds logical to me but just my 2 cents...

Chooglin

Where is Janesville?

Janesville is 80 miles north of Reno Nevada. My truck was born in Flint Mi. Too bad it didn't come out of the Janesville factory.