The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Ranco Heater control valve

The heater in my 54 pickup worked fine for many years. Now it does not get heat. Everything seems fine so I'm thinking it's the Ranco control valve. Is there a way I can confirm it's the valve? Are they difficult to rebuild?

B52Gunner,

It could be the Ranco heater control valve, but I would check the heater core for any blockage before rebuilding or replacing the heater control valve. Disconnect your heater hoses and flush the heater core with a strong spray of water from a garden hose. That may correct your heat problem. If you have to rebuild the Ranco valve Jim Carter Truck Parts offers this service with your own core. Not sure of the cost. If you choose to rebuild it yourself, it is not too difficult.

I spoke with a radiator/heater core rebuilder and he said to flush the core the opposite direction of normal flow. Also, if your heater gets heat but very little, check your thermostat. My heater quit puting out heat in the middle of winter, when I replaced the thermostat the heater worked better than ever.

fixit, you can rebuild the ranco valve yourself and the little gizmo to do it with is available from NAPO. I have the number somewhere if you need it so PM me.
Denny Graham has photo's of his and I have several on my photobucket when I took mine apart and rebuilt it. Its more fun when you do it yourself....and lot less expensive!

EDIT: .....or you can come by the shop and we'll rebuilt it.

Achipmunk,

I don't need my heater valve rebuilt. Already rebuilt it. B52Gunner was asking about rebuilding his Ranco heater valve.

Tim

I'd like to know a bit more about repairing one of these valves. Is the "diaphragm" the only replaceable part in them?

John

Yes John, take it all apart and just change the rubber seal.
Problem you will run into is bending the tabs. Gotta be
careful bending them up cuz it's hard to get under them. Then
you will have a hard time bending them back down tight so the
whole thing doesn't leak. Then you have to hope that one of
the tabs doesn't fatigue and break off.
Alvin un-soldered the plug in the bottom and disassembled the
whole thing. Hope your a good plumber/solder slinger if you
choose to go that route.
dg

B52Gunner,
A suggestion,
Just take the Ranco valve out of the equation by hooking the heater up direct to the engine.
If you get good heat,BAD Ranco valve.
If still no heat,PLUGGED heater core!
regards,
steve sr.

Thanks Guys, I back flushed the heater core (clean water came out but still no heat)and then I by-passed the heater control valve and the heater put out heat. Now I'm sending my Ranco Heater Control Valve to the good folks at Jim Carter's for a re-build.
Thanks again for your feedback, experience, & knowledge.

http://www.heatercontrolvalve.com/index.html

About $100 plus shipping

So I got my Ranco Heater Control Valve back, all rebuilt.
My question now is: Does it matter which hose goes where?

I seen in some pictures that the hose from the heater core was hooked up to the front port on the Ranco and the hose from the thermostat housing was connected to the rear port closest to the fire wall.
Mine where the opposite when I disconnected it.

Awesome, thank you.

I've had my hoses hooked up opposite at the Ranco for 4 years
Heater works great so I'm not sure if it really matters.

I don't think that the ranco nor the heater cares which way the hoses go. I would go with what the factory pictures above show, so that 'smart guys' can't pick on you for having it set up wrong.
Carl

So did the valve rebuild solve the problem?? My 52 is missing the valve all together. It had a gate valve inline and i've seen that on a couple other trucks too. Anybody have an extra Ranco valve that they would part with? Would like to get mine working correctly.

An inline valve will work just as well as the Ranco valve. It
was an early attempt at regulating the heat thermostatically
and does not do that job very well. To add to that they are
prone to developing leaks. You can regulate the heat just as
well with a manual valve. Unless you're striving for an accurate
show points restoration, go for the manual valve.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny - is this valve one you would place on the interior or directly on the water pump?

Thanks

If---I were putting one in my truck it would be this type:
Four-Seasons Heater Valve

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Excellent! Thanks

Mine was just an old faucet valve that you adjusted under the hood. I like your idea a lot better! Thanks Denny.

I have a Four Seasons 74828 valve on my defroster inlet hose mounted on the firewall and operated by a choke cable. Choke cable knob is under the dash where you can barely see it. Operates easily. In the summer I generally open it until the engine warms up then close it.

I have yet to find what the difference is between the
Four Seasons 74827 and the 74828 heat control valves.

How did you mount your valve Harold? I don't see a mounting
bracket. Normally they are simply installed in one of
the 5/8" heater hose lines.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks Denny - I had the exact same question.

I don't know if I found the difference in the two when I ordered it. I think I chose 74828 because it was cheaper.

I have 90 degree hose sections mounted on the outlet of the defroster. They make for a neater installation by keeping the hoses close to the firewall. The valve is in the inlet 90 degree hose and then the hose from the engine is attached to the valve. There is a place on the valve to attach the cable.

So just to clarify Harold, your valve isn't actually mounted to
the firewall, it's just close to it with a short section of hose?

Thought this would be obvious, but yes, the outer sheath of the
cable has to be mounted solid in relation to the valve bellcrank,
just as it is with the choke, throttle or defroster cables,
that's the whole principle behind the way a push/pull control
cable operates.

dg

No, it's not mounted to the firewall, just to the hose. The short 90 degree hose piece keeps it close to the firewall. The valve is supported only by the hose. The valve comes with a place to fasten the outer sheath of the cable.
I can maybe take a photo next week. Right now it's up on the lift and I'm inside recuperating from a couple heart stents.

Denny,

Per 4-Season "The difference between 74827 and 74828 is the internal valve, it's clocked differently. The 74827 flows to the right and 74828 flows to the left".

Mike B

Boy that is a subtle difference. The 'flow' is straight through
on either one. I think you mean the bellcrank 'throw' is to the
left on one and to the right on t'other. If it were in line it
wouldn't really make any difference other than the cable would
cross over the hose on it's way to the dash.
DG

I think it internal ball only seals in one direction so they spin the internals 180* for left or right flow. Both are "pull open"...

Mike B