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Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching? 
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| | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 | I have a 1946 235 that has had a rod bearing go bad and chew into the crank. The engine shows signs of having recent overhaul. I have seen some conversations on here about converting the rods to insert bearings. How feasible is this? Are parts easy to get? How expensive is the job? The engine belongs in a 1946 2-ton farm truck that still works for a living (1,000-1,500 miles per year.) I have a parts truck with a stuck engine that I may be able to rob the crank from.
Thanks for the feedback. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,742 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,742 | Machining the rods is pretty simple if a shop has a Bridgeport mill and a micrometer-adjustable flycytter/boring head. Bore the Babbit metal out, and a little of the connecting rod to a diameter of 2.403"-2.404". The boring operation should be left about .002" undersize and the finish diameter needs to be done with a rod reconditioning hone. The part number for the rod bearings is TRW # CB-503B or Federal-Mogul # 1415SB.
Currently, rod bearings are available in .010" and .030" undersizes. .020" under bearings are almost impossible to find, ditto for standard diameter rod bearings.
It's also possible to fit rod bearing inserts for certain applications of Perkins Diesel engines and Komatsu Diesels with a little more tinkering and fitting. Those bearings are available in a wider variety of undersizes but they're not a drop-in fit like the dedicated 216/235 rod inserts.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | There are several listings on Ebay right now for the rod bearings in standard size. I think one of them has 6 sets available. | | |
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