| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
8 members (51sub, 55shaker, Hotrod Lincoln, mason86, Paul Mullen, Peggy M, walter74, Bill Hanlon),
78
guests, and
0
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,050 Posts1,055,680 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2002 Posts: 26 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jun 2002 Posts: 26 | Our '52 has severely southwest damaged paint. I've buffed out a small section with rubbing compound, polishing compound, and finally Hand Glaze, and got a fairly decent result. Its kind of labor intensive though. Is there anything out there that can make it easier? I do have a polisher, and several drills (doesn't everyone?). - rick | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 662 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 662 | My experience has been that it's a losing battle. If the paint is dead, in just a few weeks it'll look like heck again. Maybe not all chalked up but dull and dead. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 230 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 230 | It is labor intensive but well worth the effort , IMO . be _sure_ to seal it after all the buffing , use a good wax or it'll go flat again .
I do one panel a day after the heat goes down .
Takes less than a week as once you get into it you'll do more per day .
-Nate There is no problem so difficult it cannot be overcome by generous application of brute force & ignorance
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2002 Posts: 26 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jun 2002 Posts: 26 | Thanks for the options - its hard to say exactly how much paint there is left, its obviously been repainted once anyway, but rest assured, it'll get waxed if it looks worth doing it all. thanks | | | | | Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2002 Posts: 358 | Rick, go for it! When I got my '53 I actually SANDED the truck BEFORE polishing! Using 1000-1200 grit wet 3M paper. It takes a good arm but it's not all that bad (use a bucket filled with lukewarm water and a dash of dishwashing liquid). I then buffed with 3M compound (heavy) followed by fine 'finishing' compound. A good coat of wax and voila!
whizzerick | | | | | Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 | My '66 F**D pickup was repainted several years ago using some pretty cheap paint or shoddy prep work. It is read and white the re red fades really fast. I had it all polished up once and a month later it was hard to tell. One day I was messing around with some clear coat. I wet sanded a patch up on top of the roof, where the oxidation was very bad, with 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I washed the area very thoroughly and let it dry in the sun for half an hour. I then sprayed the spot with some clear coat I got at Wal Mart. That was over a year ago and the spot I clear coated has a good shine, while the sections I did not clear coat are completely faded.
Evidently the clear coat seals the base paint to prevent oxidation. | | |
| |
| |