The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Stuck Clutch on 46 1.5ton

Hey guys,
I'm in need of a little help. My 46 1.5 ton unfortunately sat at a friends 300 miles away since April. I went to load it up on a trailer yesterday and it would not go into gear. I could only get it into gear when the truck was shut off and couldn't start it or it would naturally jerk forward. Pressing the clutch pedal seemed to do nothinig. Question, if the pressure plate is stuck against the flywheel, how do I free it up? The whole clutch set was new December 2010. I know the release bearing is not working properly. I had to use my trailer winch to load it up. Any thoughts would help. Thanks

i used a big screwdriver to gently free mine up, with patience it came loose with zero damage




Indy

start it in low and allow it to start moving, then hold the clutch down and hold the brakes. the engine should brake the clutch loose. Danger is involved if you can not stop it. You will have to shut off the key.

Ok, thanks for the input. If either of you don't mind I may send you a PM and ask for your phone numbers to discuss it further. My brother and I were going to try and free it up tomorrow, however the weather is going to be bad. I put a 10.75 inch clutch back on it in December of 2010, any advantage to switching to an 11"? I see more 11" kits available and I know I'll have to replace the flywheel. Does anyone know who makes a good master rebuild kit for the 4 speed transmission? Thanks

To break the clutch free put the truck in High Gear (4th), place two wheel chocks about one foot in front and behind the rear wheels so when it breaks free it doesn't roll away, release the parking brake and rock the truck by hand back and forth. This method has worked for me in the past.

The 10-3/4" Clutch Disc is the shock size for your truck. I don't think there would be any issues using an 11", it will grab a little sooner and be less likely to slip under heavy load.

Any good machine shop should be able to resurface your existing flywheel.

Mike B

Thanks Mike,
We'll also try that tomorrow.

Haven't heard how you made out with the stuck clutch, so here's another option for you (I like Materman's screwdriver method if access isn't too difficult). Another thing you could try if you can find a lonely road is similar to MtneerMike's method. Instead of using the brakes though, once you are moving along in first or second gear, depress the clutch and then fairly aggressively accelerate and decelerate a few times in rapid succession. You can repeat this several times if you need to. This has worked well for me on the several times I've had customer vehicles with this same problem, and no harm done.

Hi guys, temps were about 40 today in KC so we tried to free it up again with no success. We did find way to much free play in the pedal and adjusted accordingly with no success. I removed the dust cover but the 10.75" pressure plate encloses the disk so a no go on using something to move the disk away. The bearing and pressure plate appeared to be working but you never really know. The truck is heading to the shop Tuesday for repair as its too cold now to do it outside. Thanks for all the advice.

This has happened to me 2 different times. I found that I could start the truck in neutral and let it idle for 30 minutes. Then put it in gear and start it and it breaks free. It may take longer in your colder weather.

It seems the materials in the clutch disc will stick to the flywheel when put away warm and left to sit for an extended time. Putting heat into the clutch disc softens the material and lets it release.

I've tried to remember to put a 2x4 against the seat and the depress the clutch pedal when I know it will sit for a while

Thanks Wayne,
If I had more time I would keep working at it, but the truck needs to be somewhere Friday and I need it fixed without delay. I hate rushing! hate it, hate it!!! I will never leave my truck at another's house 300 miles away again.

Just an update, the disk was in deed frozen to flywheel. I was told we couldn't have freed it up without tearing it apart. Truck is fixed and resting comfortably in a warm dry shop. Thanks to all for the advice.

Your truck was saying "drive me more". Glad it worked out.

Congratulations on getting it free...so which trick finally worked?

Mike B

LOL, I know this is almost 4 years late, but the final method was tearing it open and replacing the whole kit. The disk was stuck pretty good, even prying it off with the pressure plate gone was tough. It just so happens my 45 1.5 now has the exact same problem. I went back and reviewed all the suggestions and it won't budge loose so it also is looking at a complete kit. The throw-out bearing was already howling a bit so its not surprise. Thanks

Mine was full of mouse nest, the bell housing was packed. Acid mouse urine froze the throwout bearing to the input nose. I had to remove the tranny, clutch, bellhousing in one piece before I could tear it down.

Did they get in through the bottom inspection plate?

I think they got in through the fork hole, no boot, the inspection cover is pretty tight.

Just curious,

How does one know for sure which trow-out bearing is needed? Does it depend on how long the disk horn is toward the P-plate? Example of two styles?

https://www.classicparts.com/1938-75-Clutch-Release-Bearing-1-7_8/productinfo/90-205/

https://www.classicparts.com/1951-84-Clutch-Release-Bearing-1-1_4/productinfo/90-211/

Yes - good thinking/curiosity
Also, good links

I think it depends on on your clutch style .. IE short diaphram or long diaphram, long brg. for short diaphram and short brg. for long diaphram.

Difference between the 2 classicparts.com Throwout bearings
1. Clutch Release Bearing for 1938-75 Chevy Truck
1 7/8" Tall. Normally used with the diaphragm style pressure plate.

2. Clutch Release Bearing 1951-84 Chevy Truck
1 1/4" Tall. Normally used with the 3 finger borg and beck style pressure plate.

1929 - 1957 Chevrolet Master Parts & Accessories Catalog
Group # 0.799 BEARING, Clutch Throwout
38-54 ALL (ball bearing Type) (1 7/8 long) Part # 909422
Diaphragm Spring Type Clutch Parts
1955-56 Coil Spring Type Clutch Parts

1929 - 1954 Master Parts and Accessories Catalog
Diaphragm - Spring - Bolted Type Clutch Parts

How can you tell a short diaphragm vs long by looking at it? I obviously know the difference between a diaphragm vs three finger.

If you look at some online images you can see that short diaphragm fingers appear flat in design and the long diaphragm fingers have a bend at the ends and are somewhat more raised which would require the shorter release brg.