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| | | Forums66 Topics128,049 Posts1,055,701 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 10 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 10 | Hi Guys, Six weeks ago I bought a 1954 Chevy 3100(see Welcome Center if interested). The previous owner was very honest with me about what the truck still needed and pointed out all the flaws before I bought it. One thing that I need to fix concerns the cooling system. While driving the truck home( 2 1/2 hour trip), the temperature stays somewhere between 160 to 180, however, if I pulled over on the side of the road too long, the temperature gauge quickly increases to 200-220(maybe higher if I stayed idle longer?). I believe the PO said the thermostat is 180 degree. My engine is a 350 Chevy(supposedly HP over 300).
I believe part of the problem is this: The engine does sit low compared to the radiator(supposedly a decent aftermarket radiator...I couldn't find a brand on it)...see picture https://www.flickr.com/photos/129097464@N03/15997510801/. https://www.flickr.com/photos/129097464@N03/15973706746/ The radiator is 20" wide and 25" tall. The bottom of the fan is even with the bottom radiator fins, however, the top blade is 6" below the top radiator fins. The fan is only 14" due to the fact that if it was 15" it would hit the bottom radiator hose.
The aftermarket radiator can not completely extend to the bottom of the original radiator support bracket due to the curve in the original support bracket. See picture: https://www.flickr.com/photos/129097464@N03/15998852802/. https://www.flickr.com/photos/129097464@N03/15379857523/ My first thought was: I would cut out the bottom of the radiator bracket starting where the curve impedes the radiator from dropping down. Then drop the radiator 3". This would lower the radiator top 3"(as well as give me 3" more clearance from the bottom radiator hose) and I then could get a 16" fan to cover more surface area to pull air. Then I would add a fan shroud. Dropping the radiator 3", increasing the fan diameter to 16", and putting a shroud on, would probably help the idling temperature substantially.
Then it dawned on me that the one piece radiator support(including the bottom I wanted to cut out)was probably structurally supporting not only the radiator but I'm guessing part of the inner fender support??? Can I get a aftermarket radiator support for my radiator so I can drop it lower, OR, am I opening a can of worms because there are other little sheet metal pieces that are connected to the original support? Maybe I should just avoid any fabrication and put a dual electrical puller fan?
Your insight, thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 75 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 75 | you could use a Zipps water pump riser. I believe it will raise the pump and fan 5 inches. I have one on a SBC. Goggle Zipps water pump Riser.
Last edited by Bob Giles; 12/12/2014 12:14 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 10 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 10 | Thanks Bob, I will look into this as an option. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,201 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,201 | If you cut the support right at the frame, straight down each side, you could use some 3/16" plate and simply drop it straight down still retaining its strength and looks. Welding it on frame side would be tough, so maybe taking it clear out then cutting would a option. You could also raise the engine and trans if there is room. As long as you raise them both, and not let the u-joint angle get away from you, it would do the same thing.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | You guys DO know about Pre68Daves water pump adapter plate that raises the water pump to be exactly in the center of the radiator? I just did that on my 261 recently and its THE way to solve that problem. There is no cutting or misery. Get with him and I am sure he can hook you up.  | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Pre68Daves adapter wouldn't work in this situation, this truck has a V8 in it. Sounds like when the engine was installed, it was located in the frame a bit too low. Rather than cutting up the core support, a better solution would be to install a radiator mounted electric fan.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 281 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2005 Posts: 281 | Fan that far from the radiator without a shroud is pretty much useless. It will be a challenge to make a shroud to fit this application, but without it even a bigger fan won't help. Also kind of dangerous to work around an open fan. I had one almost take my finger off when I was too young to know better.
Electric fan with its own shroud, or add a shroud to the mechanical fan. Electric fan draws a lot of amps, be sure you have enough alternator. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I think you need an electric fan with a shroud. I bought one for my '56 from either Summit or Speedy Bill. Works great.
Also, make sure that radiator is clean. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 20 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2014 Posts: 20 | I'm no expert but my son just built a shroud from sheet metal for his buddy who drives a Camaro. It instantly solved the problem forcing all the air to be drawn through the fins and then the fan. Troy Maynor | | |
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