The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop BEEFING UP THE CAB FLOOR?

What is a good way to make the cab floor better.
What do i mean by better? After you weld and cut out all the minor rust cracks or holes and patch...i assume one would undercoat the floor pans under the cab.

And i guess you could zerorust or rustolium the floor inside and outside the cab and the undercoat over that.

What else could you use for an insulation mat that would go under the carpet.

If the floor you think is a little compromise from rust which you have already treated...to add more strength how about adding a half inch of plywood over the floor pans and uuder the seat...this would added to the the strength of the floor and also act as an insulation barrier...just some thoughts.

I am new at this...does this sound practical?

Your thoughts appreciated!

Starrider

[ 01-18-2002: Message edited by: starrider88 ]

The only thing with wood is it would hold any moisture that gets under it, between it and metal floor, but so does a pad and rubber mat or carpet. Do you think floor is that thin?

Whitelightning....do i think the floor is thin?...well it is an old truck and there is a rusted area that has to be patch...although i think the floor although strong enough to hold 2-3 people under normal conditions on a smooth road however i don't feel it is strong as it was when first new.

Like if i had to stuff myself and three heavy guys...or women and ride down a rough road with a lot of pot holes going fast...i could imagine the one of the seat legs breaking through or cracking the floor.LOL!!!

Starrider

Starrider, I don't know what to tell you on this one. If floor is structurally bad, I'd probably replace it. If it is just light rust I'd say you have no problems. Are cab mounts solid? You could try probing floor with a screw driver to tell how solid it is. Worst thing with wood is getting a good fit and such.I'm not sure how even floor is where seat mounts, but you could get some 1/8" or 1/4" steel plates cut and use them like washers underneath to spread out pull on floor.

On the old hot rods, we always used to use street signs. Plenty heavy and easy to weld. BTW if you are going to get any don't get stop signs. Try for falling rocks or something like that.
Dennis

VERY DURABLE METAL DABOND I USED THOSE PRIMARILY FOR THE FLOORING IN MY SPRINT CARS (LAUGHING)PEOPLE WOULD LAUGH WHEN IT FLIPPED AND IT SAID SPEED LIMIT 35MPH.
ALAN

por-15 make something just for that.i saw it in their catalog.

If you didnt weld a patch in yet , how about making your replacement part out of a thicker gauge such as 14 or 12 gauge . if you need to do a part with a bend or angle - you may need to have a metal shop do the bending on this thick of part but it would Really stiffen it up ! Just a thought . HTH

Thanks guys for the ideas...i thought of plywood as that is how they build van conversions...using plywwood on the back bed of the van then covered with some foam rubber mat followed with carpet.

But if you guys don't like plywood ..... perhaps a sheet of quarter inch aluminum panel covering the floor in the cab? or some other material like a quarter inch think of plexi-glass...both moisture resistant. Just some ideas?

As far as steel plating...my thoughtis that it would just added more weight to this heavy stovebolt and it only has a 292 six in it.

Looking at the cab floor now it still is oem factory as far as the floor covering goes which seems to be some foam matting under the rubber floor cover. And i plan to take that all out as i think it is a moisture liability.

Any more ideas welcomed!

Thanks!

Starrider

Whitelightning...reread your last post...yes your idea of like washers made from steel plating is very good! As i look under the cab...where the bolts to the bench seat comes through...there are already factory 2x2" reinforce plates welded with the floor. So perhaps if i found 3inch washers and put them on the top side.

Thanks!

Starrider

Starrider, if you are concerned about strength, think about rebuilding your floor with slightly heavier gauge sheetmetal (no, not steel plate!). As for noise/temperature control, look no further than the Jap Boys...yes, those kids who "hot rod" Honda Civics, etc. When you have a loud exhaust and stereo capable of oilcanning EVERY body panel at every low note, you need good sound deadening. Such products as Dynamat, etc are meant for this and are water repellant and work far better than anything the factory put out. To find this stuff, check out the Crutchfield's website-I think it's www.crutchfields.com. HTH