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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 | Howdy All --- 1946 1.5 ton --- I have been trying to separate the "top hat" portion of the front hub and believe I'm just dealing with a little rust weld holding it in place. However...I wanted see if anyone else has separated these puppies successfully without destroying anything. Six bolts came off fine but the bugger won't budge. And since I don't have anything like a shop manual, I thought I'd check with some of the pros here before I resort to oxy acetylene and a bigger hammer. Does it fit inside the backing plate or just bolt up flush as it appears to do?
Also wondering if anyone knows of replacement part numbers for any or all of the bearings.
Thanks in advance for any insight. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Tango, it would help me to help you if I understood what part the "top hat" was, could you describe which two parts you're trying to separate? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 201 | If the 1 1/2 ton works the same as the 2 ton, the cover just bolts up flush. You might want to try a putty knife around the edge. If that doesn't work, I would take a small chisel and a light hammer to gently pry it off. The ones on mine came right off once the bolts were out.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | If you're trying to remove what might appear to be an adapter so the deep dish dual type wheels fit... I don't believe there is any adapter, just the one piece hub and the separate drum, probably held on with those 6 bolts you removed. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 | Thanks Guys --- it does look like a flush fit as far as I can tell. Tried whacking with a small sledge and tried to get a chisel under the edge with no results so far. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't something else holding it that I might damage. I have a feeling it's one of those parts you don't want to try and find a replacement for.
3B --- the part I am referring to is what has the wheel studs going through it and bolts up to the brake drum. The rims bolt to it via the wheel studs. Not sure what the proper name is, just always heard it called "the top hat".
Last edited by Tango; 11/26/2014 4:04 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Tango, by your description you're trying to remove the hub from the drum, they're probably just rusted together now that you have the screws out of the drum face the two parts should separate, but they may need some persuasion to make that happen, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Are you trying to remove the drum? Or trying to break the single piece hub into two pieces?
To remove the drum try a rubber mallet on the drum to wiggle it off the hub.
At some point you have to take the whole thing off the spindle to finally remove drum from hub. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 | Back to penetrant and whacking it.
Meanwhile...Has anyone come across a service manual that covers Big Bolts? I have the "Car & Truck" book but it does not contain any maintenance or service info above the light duty units. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,384 | I assume you are trying to get to the spindle nut. The cover is held on by 6 bolts that you removed. That leaves the plate and a gasket on the hub. Even a lot of rust wouldn't keep it from coming off with a little work. Worst case, someone has covered both sides of the gasket with sealer that has turned to stone. Or worse put it together with some kind of sealer and no gasket
A thin putty knife is your best bet. Start the corner or side edge into the crack and tap with a hammer. Or if you can feel the edge of the cover just a bit proud of the hub anywhere around it, put something thin against that edge and hit outward. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 | Just back from trying again with putty knives (broke), a brand new (now worthless) gasket scraper and a cold chisel. All with a bigger hammer. Oh yeah...and a fair amount of oxy acetylene too. Still no budgee. Is a puzzlement. Doesn't really look bad from the outside... [img] https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7513/15885812012_9ff773b6c6.jpg[/img] | | | | | Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2006 Posts: 2,544 | I'm not sure about the 46 but don't some of the AD 1 1/2tons have a screw on cap? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,846 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,846 | Is the hub off the truck? The outer wheel bearing is contained in that hub extension (top hat) with the wheel studs in it, which is what I assume you're trying to separate from the drum. If the hub is still on the spindle, the outer wheel bearing and the spindle nut is what's holding it on. If the hub is already off the truck, disregard all the above! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy Tango, thank you very much for the picture! You are indeed trying to remove the brake drum from the hub. It might go easier if you push the studs out that you already removed the nuts from. If you could find something the correct dimension to use as a fulcrum and set it near the outer circumference of the brake drum and the use a large pry bar under the wheel mounting flange of the hub you might have some success at separating the two parts, good luck. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 | I think the hub is probably off. Looks like a job for a bearing splitter on a hydraulic press. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 3,608 Moderator | | Moderator Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 3,608 | Looks to me like the wheel studs need to be pushed out. They will be a shallow spline shank that are pressed in from the other side. A small porta-power would be the easyest. Use a nut screwed on the stud almost all the way so the threads do not get damaged. The pry bar may work, but don't get your hopes up. I have also had luck putting a spacer (the right thickness)in as a backing plate and then using the stud nut to push the stud out, by running the nut off the stud. Make sure everything is lubed well.
Hope this helps and not confuse. Also keep us up to date on how you get it apart.
Don
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck"The Flag Pole"In the Stovebolt Gallery1946 2-Ton grain truck 1946 3/4-ton pickup, 1953 1-ton pickup 1957 1-ton flatbed dually, 1954 Pontiac Straight Eight Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 1,384 | Tango Just went to the shop and had a look. The drums are off and the hubs are back on the truck waiting for Randy's brake kit. Now I remember that I had to use the press to separate them. The drums are a slide fit on to a machined step on the hubs. About 3/8 in wide and the studs are spline fit into the flange. Support the drum and press the hub out from the back. It takes a lot of pressure for the first 3/8 in then falls free. On assembly the nuts pull it together. Sorry I forgot, senior moment. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 | Many thanks Jim --- I thought it might be something like that! I'll let my machine shop separate them. I also need to have the lug holes bored out to accept the larger Dana wheel studs.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 5 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 5 | I just did this tonight. Used 3 fine thread bolts and nuts. The bolts should be as long as will fit between the drum and the part of the hub with the studs. As you turn the nuts off the bolts the hub will move. Once it is up just a little I beat a screwdriver between the two pieces.
Gillyatt 1951 2 ton Chevy with Gain dump bed
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 667 | Very clever --- But I cheated. Just sent it to a machine shop. But it had to go there anyway. I am replacing all the wheel studs (lug bolts) with the slightly larger version that is on my rear axle ('98 Chevy C3500/Dana 80HD). Those are the rims I'm using all around.
Now I really need to get my hands on the front disk brake kit that Randy Domeck has been working on. | | |
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