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| | | Forums66 Topics128,018 Posts1,055,342 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 96 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 96 | Can anyone tell me if it is possible to drop the oil pan and exchange the rod or main bearings? I have a 55 series II pick up and it's beginning to make rattling noises above 2500rpm. I'm new to this but it looks to me like there is a steering link that is in the way but once removed there should be enough room to drop the pan. Don't really want to pull the engine and hope there is an easier way. Of course I'll measure the journals and look for damage before replacing anything. Many Thanks | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,636 | Depending on the year model of the 235, there may be dowel pins that help keep the main bearings in place. That may require lowering the crank more than those that just have a slight flange on one side to hold them in place.
You may have to drop the transmission and remove the timing cover to gain enough room to change them.
But maybe some one else will come along that knows more about that year model engine. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Rod bearing noises are pretty distinctive. With the truck parked, a momentary rev of the engine will bring out a rod bearing noise just as the RPM stops rising and before it falls. A main bearing produces a thud or a dull knock under load at low RPM. Both types of bearings can cause low oil pressure problems. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 96 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 96 | Thanks for your quick reply. Next time I start my truck, I'll pay closer attention to when the noise occurs. Up til now, I only noticed it when driving and above 2500rpm. Nothing on start up although I could have overheard it. I have NO OIL PRESSURE Problems. Pressure is excellent with or without the noise. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 | Try retarding the ignition riming a couple of degrees. It's possible you're hearing detonation noises, not bearings. Loosen the clamp screw that holds the distributor to the block, and turn it very slightly clockwise. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2012 Posts: 1,214 | Try retarding the timing as Jerry and others have suggested. Once I had a 302 Ford knocking like crazy, I just knew it was about to throw a rod through the block. Ended up the timing was so advanced the detonation was causing the rod knock. Retarded the timing to spec and that engine ran like a sewing machine. Good luck Dave | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,270 | Your description of a rattling noise is likely all of the valve train components rattling. All of the bearings don't go bad all at once. HRL has likely nailed your problem. I had a similar problem with a 235 and couldn't get rid of all of it by retarding the timing. Turned out that the part of the points which contact the lobes was worn down to near nothing. New points solved the problem. I need glasses and I am too cheap for my own good, not to change out those old used points earlier. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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