The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Need correct Radiator-1939

Hi All,
I have to get a new radiator for my 39 half ton. I have found a few vendors. I am trying to figure out if I need to order a custom one or one they have on the shelf. My set up is stock or so it would appear. However the ones I see online show only 4 holes and mine has 6. I want a two inch core and I want the filler cap to align with the hole in the radiator support. The 6 holes are threaded having anchor nuts. If anyone has a 39 that can send me some pix of what a stock one is suppose to look like or direct me to some I would appreciate it. I don't know if the filler neck is supposed to sit above the hole in the support or below it and by how much. It may be that the truck has a different model support in it, not sure. I found one that has 6 holes, slightly different spacing but only has a one and a quarter inch core. I have installed a late 235 and want the extra capacity. Any information to sort this out would be greatly appreciated. Here's some pix...first attempt with Photo Bucket so hope it works.
Troy


http://s50.photobucket.com/user/europaman1/library/Troys%2039%20Chevy

Don't rule out a aluminum replacement. In my opinion, it will cool better then the thicker brass radiators. I have read that the extra cores on brass radiators can block air flow, thus slow down cooling. My aluminum replacement works great and is rated for 22 psi of pressure. I left it in a natural color, but painted flat black, one would have a hard time telling the difference. Cost was about half of a good brass one. It is not USA made, but some are.

The mounting holes were not drilled in the side panels, making it easy to custom mount.

Joe

Hi troy, looking at pictures I would say not the right radiator.
From my parts interchange book I have Harrison 3112131,3112130 3" core, fits jc,jd, je.v. the radiator you have is to short in length, should have more crown to top and just fit filler neck through hole in top bracket so radiator cap can be filled, cap sticks up through hole so cap can be removed, closed for filling. maybe do a search for Harrison 3112131 or 3112130
should fit and will have four holes. hope someone will have pic of 39 radiator installed in truck will help. hope this helps a little. jbennett

Joe, I am planning on an aluminum one. What company did you get yours from. I found some on Ebay from china for about 285 dollars. Prefer the alum. ones I found in the USA.

Jbennett, The one in the pix is not the correct one because of the added strips on the side. So, the cap IS suppose to come through the top bracket....good to know. I will search the numbers and I do hope someone has a stock 1939 installation out there.

troy, when I had my 40 burb same as 39 the radiator was total mess, found another radiator with good tanks top and bottom and had radiator shop put new guts in between tanks, 4 tube and cooled real good, cost less than whole new radiator at that time.
think was same Harrison 3112131
jbennett

Thanks Jbennet,
I'll look around...didn't find anything when googled.
Troy

Mine is made or sold by Afco. The hose inlet and outlets do match the originals, both on mine stick straight out. The original top hose was just a short straight length, so I went to the local parts house and found one with a 90 degree and the right size ID. I like it better since there is more hose movement and less strain on the radiator. I think that is what made my stock radiator keep leaking. The bottom hose also goes straight in, but since my 250 is different anyway I just rerouted the hose to fit.

If go with aluminum, first thing to do is tape heavy cardboard over the core on both sides, the fins bend real easy if you bump up against something installing it.

Joe

Troy's 39,
I scrapped my radiator because I couldn't believe it would be period correct or even if it was good enough to keep. I went with a radiator from U.S. Radiator. It is new and the bolt hose lined up.
The only thing I didn't like, the radiator didn't come with a cap and a drain valve. For the amount I paid for it, I would have expected those two items.

Bread
.

Bread,
Is yours a stock 39 set-up? Are the holes in yours spaced 7 inches vertically and 21 inches left to right? Does the filler neck protrude through the radiator support? The link you sent is the exact radiator you installed. Did you opt for the standard version? Which engine are you cooling?
Troy

Mr. Troy,
I don't know if the holes are spaced 7 ad 21 but I the radiator had to be mounted to the back side of the mounting flange. The filler neck dose not protrude past the radiator support on top. The link that I sent is the radiator I purchased (middle one - high efficiency). The radiator support has been worked on and I am still trying to piece it together so I suspect that there are still some mods to be done.


The engine is a '54 235.

Bread
.

Bread,
Thanks a lot for the pix and information. The pix show me what I wanted to know about the filler neck. It does protrude enough for the cap to go on looks like, correct me if I am wrong.
Also, did you have to mount the radiator on the front because the core was too thick and it was hitting the fan? This radiator may be the one I have been looking for, just wished they weren't so expensive.

Sir,
I have not purchased a cap yet but I will come the end of the month and I'll take some pics so you can see.
The radiator was placed on the front side of the mounting flanges because the fan was hitting due to the placement of the engine.
I did away with the front motor mounts and when the engine was mounted w/side mounts, it was placed just a little too close to the front. Not a bid deal because I can go with an electric fan if need be.

I got my radiator from a good guy out of Az. He got me a good deal from U.S. Radiator. Look on the site and there is a link that can take you to someone close to you and maybe you can get a deal as well.

Bread
.

Well, I'm going to take the plunge I think tomorrow. By all I can figure and measure and try and squeeze information out of US Radiator, theirs looks like it will fit and looks kind of original. I just don't understand so many on sites like Wizard, Winner, Brice Thomas and Ebay that show a '39 having only 4 bolts to hold them in and appear too short for the filler to meet the support. Mine needs 6 holes. Thanks to each of you for your advice. Thanks "Bread" for the pictures. They were a big help. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Hi All,
A little follow up on above subject. I ordered a US Radiator for a '39/'40 and it came, it looked like the pictures, very good quality, had the correct hole spacing and all, correct inlet outlet so I was happy...until the following. Fan over lapped the radiator position to zero to minus clearance. Did the water pump adapter plate with a 53 model pump which worked out well, however the fan still hit the 39 radiator with the stock body parts...so then had to put the radiator on the front of the radiator support mounting flanges and even add 3/4" spacers to that. Now the remaining problem is that the filler neck is off center of it's hole in the body and it does not protrude up through the hole far enough to get a cap on it. I'll get a couple pix up on the bucket site in a couple days when I get time. Any ideas from those who've gone before would be appreciated. BTW, I got the radiator through the distributor in Arizona, Patrick's. Great deal.
Troy Maynor
Weaverville, NC

Sounds like the US Radiator is a fair enough copy. Good to hear you are making progress. Did you have trouble getting it in? I know you had to put it in front of the mounts. What I'm talking about though is fitting it into place. I've done it on my '40 before, but not looking forward to doing it again after I get everything painted. Just seems like it is maybe 1/2 inch too wide. Maybe there is some trick to it. I'm pretty sure I have the stock radiator but I should check that. I may get this radiator if my stock one doesn't keep up when I put in A/C.

Dennis

the brass radiator actually rejects heat better than aluminum, the reason(s) aluminum is used is weight, and withstands the pressures found in the modern engines better than soldered brass. But most of these trucks have none to very little pressure, and saving 5 pounds isn't going to make a drop of difference in mileage. The only thing that is better about aluminum is they are cheaper. I got an U.S. radiator as well, it was $600, with the top polished like a mirror, They go to special lengths to do a real pretty job on the soldering on the polished units, and only charged $50 to do it. And if you have ever tried to polish an old one you will know $50 is a great deal. Yes it was expensive, but it will last till I am dead and gone, and it is made in America.