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I have a 1952 3100. Then "emergency brake" hardware is missing. Nothing from the brake pedal in the cab all the way back to the rear wheels. There is a stump of a cable that appears to have been cut off....

Stump....

Here are some closer pics of where it enters the wheel....

Enters wheel...

Here is where it comes into the wheel....

Inside wheel...

I purchased a the following cable thinking it was what I needed...

Purchased cable...

Looking at what is still attached to the truck and what I received in the mail, I am thinking I didn't order the right part. Once inside the wheel, what hooks up to what?

Can anybody provide some assistance on what I need to do here?

Thank you!

Last edited by The Hill Boys; 11/24/2014 5:14 AM.

Ron and Ryan Hill
1952 Chevy 3100
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The cable you bought looks like the one that goes from the pedal to the parking brake actuator shaft in the middle of the frame. That is where the hand brake cables from from each rear wheel attach and are pulled by the front cable.
The rear wheel cables attach to a lever on one of the brake shoes to move the brake shoes.

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Ron,

The two bolt bracket (cooper colored) on your new part looks to be the bracket that bolts to the backing plate at the wheel. The springed end goes into the drum though backing plate, and is attached to a lever arm behind the drum. The length between the 2 bolt bracket (or clip) and the fused knob that attaches to drum lever arm is critical. Your backing plate does not have the two matching holes (where the cable enters the backing plate) unless the brackets holes are under the rust. By the looks of your picture your cut cable uses a push in type clip so something is amiss. Either modified / changed axle or the part you ordered is not correct. Talk to the vendor or look through others pictures to confirm the attaching point to the backing plate.


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Originally Posted by Hambone
Ron,

The two bolt bracket (cooper colored) on your new part looks to be the bracket that bolts to the backing plate at the wheel. The springed end goes into the drum though backing plate, and is attached to a lever arm behind the drum. The length between the 2 bolt bracket (or clip) and the fused knob that attaches to drum lever arm is critical. Your backing plate does not have the two matching holes (where the cable enters the backing plate) unless the brackets holes are under the rust. By the looks of your picture your cut cable uses a push in type clip so something is amiss. Either modified / changed axle or the part you ordered is not correct. Talk to the vendor or look through others pictures to confirm the attaching point to the backing plate.


That's what I was afraid of. The backing place of the wheel is molded and therefore nothing flat would mount to it.

Enters wheel...

On the inside of the wheel, it appears that there is a metal clip or something that expands once inside the wheel.

Inside wheel...

I guess that is why all the other hardware was missing too. What steps do I need to take to determine what axle I may have? Now I am worried that all the brake parts (cylinders, springs, shoes, ect) are not going to be correct either.


Ron and Ryan Hill
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Jim, I order this part as what I thought was needed to go from the emergency brake pedal to the cross member.

(47-54) Emergency Brake Control Rod

I thought then that a cable when from each side of the cross member to the rear wheel. I order these assuming that is what made the connection of one end of the cable to the cross member.

(1947-72) Brake Yoke Ends

I then assumed that the other end of the cable when inside the wheel and attached to "something". Since nothing was there to begin with, I'm unclear what that something is. My manual doesn't show any pictures either.


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Here is a pic that someone posted on another forum of their 1953.

The end of the cable going toward the rear wheel looks a lot like the one that was cut off on mine.


Ron and Ryan Hill
1952 Chevy 3100
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Originally Posted by The Hill Boys
[quote=Hambone] .
.
.
What steps do I need to take to determine what axle I may have? Now I am worried that all the brake parts (cylinders, springs, shoes, ect) are not going to be correct either.
Post links to photos of:
- the rear of the rear end
- the front of the rear end (where the u-joint attaches)
- the entire brake-shoe/cylinder assembly (inside of a rear drum)
- any casting (or other) numbers/codes on the rear-end

Maybe someone will recognize what rear end you have.

With that information, you might be able to get a company (Inline Tube, etc) to make a cable for you (with correct ends and length).

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Here is a pic of the driveline....

Driveline

Drum

Innards


Ron and Ryan Hill
1952 Chevy 3100
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The third member you show looks like a 70's era part from a Chevy truck. The brake is a "self adjusting" version and the open drive shaft looks to be from a 1/2 ton truck or Blazer. But that is just a guess. It is not the stock third member and it is not a stock drive shaft. The stock for a 52 3100(1/2 ton) is an enclosed drive shaft with manual adjusters. Very different critters. Try to find the casting numbers on the third member to help ID what you have.


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Here are the casting numbers on the rear end...

NF3896838

GM58

Pic from rear


Last edited by The Hill Boys; 11/23/2014 8:19 PM.

Ron and Ryan Hill
1952 Chevy 3100
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looks to me to be a TF or later GMC limited slip rear for which parts are unobtanium

Bill


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I've had this same problem with Ebrake cables. You do need the threaded end and you do need the drum end to be push in/snap in type. You do need approx. correct length. Some adjustability on threaded end. Or if too short, add an extension. Bottom line is: Find a rear end on craigslist and buy the cables or watch Ebay for correct ends and approx. length. As said, the spring holds the crimped nib into the ebrake lever notch.


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I talked with inline tube over the phone for a set of non-stock cables recently. The cables they have for my truck were going to come with the bolt on bracket. I had them switch that out to the clip on. They most likely can make cables (of the same length as you have from other vendor) and put on the backing plate clip. The bits and pieces are all common to inline tube's parts bins.


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Thanks guys. I'll look into the ebrake cable with inline tube.

In the mean tine, does anybody have a clue on what axle/rear end I have base on the pics I posted?


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As near as I can tell, but double check this. You have a GM 10.5 inch 12 or 14 bolt rear end. Used from 1973 to 1984 and beyond in some cases. Truck axle used in lots of applications. Too much dirt to get a good count on the cover bolts.
This might be helpful: http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm
Good luck.


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Sorry boys, my bad.
I forgot what truck you had.

If you do have a replaced rear axle (and it is working fine and installed right) You need to identify it and get cables, drums, shoes and wheel cylinders to match. The parts forward of that (master, front wheels, etc) hopefully are stock.

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Originally Posted by Steve_H
As near as I can tell, but double check this. You have a GM 10.5 inch 12 or 14 bolt rear end. Used from 1973 to 1984 and beyond in some cases. Truck axle used in lots of applications. Too much dirt to get a good count on the cover bolts.
This might be helpful: http://www.nationwideparts.com/differentials.htm
Good luck.

It has 12 bolts. From the diagram in the link you posted, it looks like a GM 8.875" Truck


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Due to the panhard bar stud, self adjusting brakes and 12 bolt, it is probably 1964-1966(-1972). Believe 64 was first year for 12 bolt and possibly self adjust. I believe 12 bolt corporate was 1964-1982. I don't think that style panhard bar on stud/control arms went past 72. A panhard would have been 2WD and have coil springs and, after 66, have 5 lugs. If from a 4x4 leaf spring truck, it would have spring over axle and no panhard stud...so a lot of work has been done to modify something for your truck. Is that clear enough?


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Originally Posted by bartamos
Due to the panhard bar stud, self adjusting brakes and 12 bolt, it is probably 1964-1966(-1972). Believe 64 was first year for 12 bolt and possibly self adjust. I believe 12 bolt corporate was 1964-1982. I don't think that style panhard bar on stud/control arms went past 72. A panhard would have been 2WD and have coil springs and, after 66, have 5 lugs. If from a 4x4 leaf spring truck, it would have spring over axle and no panhard stud...so a lot of work has been done to modify something for your truck. Is that clear enough?

Thank you. I'm in a little over my head so most of what you said went flying over it. I will try to research some more based on your advice.


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I was just giving my thoughts on boiling down the year. It is for others to mull and dissect if needed. Just brainstorming and trying to reason it out. If you are going with custom cable, you don't need to know for that. When you need parts for shoes (probably 2x11) and springs and etc., they sell universal hardware kits which will cover any internal part you need. Post when ready for that stuff. Drums may have diameter of shoes stamped on them and measure width of shoe. The diff you have is nice and strong and well liked. I had a 12B panhard donor rear end in one of my trucks. Did you notice that it is a little wide? If it is a 64-65 it may be a little bastard'ish for some parts.
You will have to have the mechanism that the threaded end attaches to in order to get length measurement.


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Your input is very much appreciated. Hope I didn't imply otherwise.


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Ok, we found some more numbers...

On the axle itself... HA0523W

On the back side of the casing... E177 CON1

So, does that mean 1967 3.73?

Last edited by The Hill Boys; 11/25/2014 5:44 AM.

Ron and Ryan Hill
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Seems like May 17 1967. If you pull the cover off, the ring gear will have the ratio and date stamped. Could be a posi! I mis-stated 2WD 6 lug. 2WD 6 lug up thru 70. 2WD switched to 5 lug Disc brakes in 71. 1967 rear end does compute with all indicators. The date code helps too grin


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Thank you! My son and I will try to open it up over the weekend. We have a elk hunt the following two weekends. Now I just need to arrange returning some of the brake stuff I bought online.


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I suppose 6A, 6B right?


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6B, cow


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Well, Ryan and I put the rear drum and tire back on and jacked up the front end to work on it instead. We were able to get the old shoes, cylinders, flex hose line off, got the wheels cleaned up and put on the new cylinders, shoes, springs, etc. The flex hoses that we ordered doesn't fit the hard line so I am going to have to buy different ones.

One interesting thing, the front wheels did have the adjustment slot. The truck was titled as an 1951 but has all the other 1952 things (VIN #, 90 mph speedo, push button door handles, 8 boards in the bed, etc). My manual indicates that the adjuster slot was eliminated in 1952. So the mystery continues.

We ordered the dual master cylinder and bracket so that will be next up followed by new lines. I will fun to FLAPS to see about shoes etc for the rear. Looks like we will have to have a custom cable made for the e-brake.

Progress!


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Originally Posted by The Hill Boys
6B, cow

Forgot to follow up.... Ryan got his elk on the last day of the season. 200 yard head shot. 296lbs hanging weight. Freezer is full (actually had to buy a new one!). Truck has been sitting. We did start working on pulling the old master cylinder and lines yesterday.


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Keep us posted


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Originally Posted by The Hill Boys
Jim, I order this part as what I thought was needed to go from the emergency brake pedal to the cross member.

(47-54) Emergency Brake Control Rod

I thought then that a cable when from each side of the cross member to the rear wheel. I order these assuming that is what made the connection of one end of the cable to the cross member.

Ryan and I started messing around with the forward part of the emergency/parking brake rod as shown in the link above. What is the little "hook" thing at the bottom of the picture? Is it just a spring puller?


Ron and Ryan Hill
1952 Chevy 3100

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