The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Always killing batterys

OK, with a new wire harnes,on for past 3 yrs.Now it's always real low charge, and always needs a jump.New 6 volt battery 2mo. old and $103.00 I'm starting to loss it.How do I check out to see how its shorting.Any help, i sure can use it. Thanks, Paul

One easy thing you can do is to carefully remove/touch one of the battery connections at the battery. If you see a little spark, then something is 'on', then track down from there.

Dennis

Dennis is right for the easiest test first. Next, whether or not you see a spark, connect an amp meter between the terminal and battery post. Now you'll know how big it is, from fractional amps to several amps.

Since the electrical system is pretty simple, start by removing the fuses one at a time until the draw goes away. Now you know which circuit is the problem.
Got them all out and still there? Remember any accessories that have in line fuses.

Still not found? Now you just have the unfused circuits to look at.

i bet the gauges are staying on.look at them next time you start and turn off the truck.they should move when you turn the on and off.

New harness? Best guess, you have mis-wired the Ignition switch. Something is on all the time. The tip about the battery cable is good one, Thanks Dennis. The tip from wirewizards is good too. Jim has, pointed you to some of the big current users as well. But the thing that can cause this if all else is good, the Voltage Regulator. Easy check? Take the wires off the genny. If the problem goes away, the cutout relay is probably stuck.

Thanks to all, will checkem all out...Paul

Does your truck have the "backward" ignition switch?

The switch in my '53 is OFF when the key is turned to the right, and ON when turned to the left. When I first put the truck together it took me a while to get used to this, and I had to make myself take the key out every time.

Just a thought.

That is a new one. First time I have ever heard of that. I wonder if that was a part for right hand drive like in England?

Bruce, I'd say your switch is wired wrong

Bill

For old time sake, my Suburban's ignition switch is also wired "backwards".

(This was before I moved to Britain for 3.5 years.)

It was wired that way when I bought it in 1971 and I have kept it with that old mis-wiring.

Maybe so. I thought it was just "character".

Nope, some of the truck switches are wired that way. If the switch has a small handle built into the lock cylinder, the ignition is "off" when turned full clockwise, "on" when in the center position with the key vertical, and "off and locked" when the cylinder is turned fully counterclockwise with the key inserted into the cylinder. The key can be removed in the off or run position so the vehicle can be operated without the key inserted into the lock by simply turning the handle. It is necessary to have the key inserted into the cylinder to go to the "lock" position and it stays there when the key is removed. The 1958 model school bus I rode for 3 years back in high school worked that way, as well as several big bolt trucks I've worked on. Some fleet trucks had several vehicles keyed alike so a foreman only had to keep up with one master key.
Jerry

47-55st truck ignition switch cylinders were smooth on the face (no handle built into the cylinder).

Some of the vendors show that smooth face through 1966.

Some vendors show this switch for 47/48

My Brother had a 52 GMC and his switch was like that. I forgot about it, until now. Getting old ain't for the faint of heart.

You haven't said so I have to ask. Are you sure that your generator is sending juice back to the battery? I ask because I went thru 2 or 3 "bad" batteries and chased a draw that wasn't before I. Finally realized that the only problem with my system was the fact that I wasn't getting a good charge.

Is your amp meter reading a slight draw (negative) sometimes or every time you turn the ignition off? I had a similar problem with my '48 before and after my new wiring harness. In the end my trouble was caused by the 'cut-off' on the Voltage Regulator.
Like many have suggested their are a variety of possibilities, at least we are better acquainted with our trucks after chasing down these kinds of pain in the [censored] problems...
Good Luck