The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop I'm confused

Did I spell "confused" right? What ever; I have been reading about this zerorust product and I still don't understand exactly how it should be used. It seems that you can paint anything with it, even the whole truck. Is this true? I am doing a ground up restoration on a 51 five window and I am going to do it right. Would it work to sandblast, then use zerorust, then primer, then paint? On areas like the frame would the primer be necesary? Or do you need primer at all with this product? Can you sand it and use it in place of primer followed by the top coat? I wouldn't think this stuff should be used on its own if you are going for a really good finish. Sorry for all the questions but I am a first time restorer who likes to research what I am doing and do my very best to do it right. Thanks!

What I meant to say is that I don't think this product should be used on its own if you are going for a really good finish. Sorry!

It's late.

You can use it as a primer, or you can use it as total, with a clear top coat. My truck is more utilitiarian so I painted the whole thing in ZR. Here is a link to it:

my truck

This truck wasn't going to get made pretty, so the paint is more than adequate.

To clarify a point or 2:
1) The only way I would use ZR under an automotive "system" would be if there were unrezolved rust that needed to be locked down first. Your sand blast statement would negate the rust, hence the ZR. Over fully prepared steel the automotive epoxy primers work fine. If you decide on using ZR under a "system" I would let it (ZR) fully cure for a month before I put the sandable primer over it. The reason is that fully cured, the ZR is much less likely to react to the primer and in that curing process, all the film shrinkage will have been taken care of.
2) The biggest area of use for ZR is the back sides of all panels as they more than likely are the marginally prepared surfaces for which ZR is ideal. Additionally the satin finish is generally not an issue for these areas, sealing steel is.
If you have questions that you want to handle off list, email me at [email protected]
Cheers......
Bruce Palmer
Salem OR

The ONLY way I would use Zero Rust is in a COMPLETE system. Using ALL the Zero Rust products from bare metal up.

It is not a product to use on the outside of a truck, other than "hard parts" like bumpers and things like that.

On the fenders, body, bed and such, I would use NOTHING LESS than a complete system from a major paint manufacture like PPG, DuPont and the like.

Follow the tech sheets for the top coat you are using, be it ZeroRust or what ever. In the tech sheet for ZeroRust top coat it will tell you the necessary undercoats they recommend. If you use a top coat from PPG, DuPont and the like, their tech sheets will instruct you to use PPG, and DuPont undercoats. They tell you this for a reason, because it is the best way to get a good result with their products, PERIOD.

Ingo, I much prefer to go the sand blast, primer then paint routine. Zerorust from what I've heard is best used in areas where total rust elimination is not possible. If you are going for a total ground up (I am on my 58), then taking it all apart and blasting everything is the way to go. Be advised that there are some parts, i.e. potmetal (the trumpet portion of the horn for example)where using sand is not advised, it will really eat away the metal, NOT GOOD! Different forms of plastic beads work best here. Take it to an experienced person and they will help you out with this. Hope this helps. Good luck

And for goodness sakes, don't let someone near that truck with a SAND BLASTER. There are guys who can strip paint off sheetmetal with a sand blaster, but VERY FEW.

Sandblasting WILL destroy, I mean TOTALLY destroy sheetmetal. So make sure you have someone who knows, I mean REALLY knows what he is doing.

Use zero rust on frames and such where you are not concerned with how smooth the finish is. If I'm right, the best way to apply this stuff is to just "cuff" the loose stuff with a wire brush off and slather it on. That's the beauty of it. Used it on a bumper and grill for my brother in laws 54 and it's starting to get dull already. On about 6 months. Wouldn't do that again.
I ALWAYS use it on the insides of fenders and such too.
see ya
Jim

Would like to say that everything in this thread is just about spot on as far as the information in each post is concerned and should clarify the situation.

However, for those of you looking the situation over and seeing Brian say don't mix products and me saying how to mix products, don't think we are at cross purposes on this issue. Brian's frame of reference is technology oriented when he says to use a "system" all the way up. The paint companies spend a lot of research dollars to get it right product to product to avoid problems. What I'm saying is that I know that for whatever reasons, some decisions are being made out there to use ZR first and my input is meant to minimize potential problems (see ugly reactions) when the mixing of products is done.
You may return to your regularly scheduled programming.......
Bruce Palmer
[email protected]

I'm with you Bruce. IF and I have to repeat you should stick with a COMPLETE paint system, IF you are going to mix systems, at least do it the "bestest" way.

You can mix systems in such a way that it is "not as bad" as it could be. While you could mix systems and end up with a total catastrophic failure.

It is like using a charcoal resporator. It is NOT recommended to use one with isocyinate containing products. HOWEVER, I know, you know, that people will. So, I like to tell people how to use the mask properly to minimize the exposure. I think it is better than saying "NO" and not telling people how to use the thing properly.

That being said, I have to repeat myself.

Following the tech sheets of any given product will by the odds provide you with a better end product, PERIOD.