The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline IFS while retaining stock ride height?

1953 Chevy 3100

I have read through a number of previous discussions about IFS and suspension swaps. I have also looked around at the various IFS kits offered by several vendors mentioned in discussions.

It appears the me that all IFS kits are going to drop the ride height at least 3"...and most rear end spring kits will drop the ride height also.

I called two vendors and asked about IFS and stock ride height and I was told (by both of them) that if I want to keep stock height, I should keep the stock suspension.

Is it possible to have IFS and retain the stock ride height?

Has anyone done that? If so, what did you use?

Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.
Thank You
Tim

My only experience is stubbing my 53 3100 with a Nova subframe. What I learned was the mating location determines the ride height. Mine came out way lower than I expected, but the slammed look kinda grew on me. What I know about IFS is that their primary purpose is to lower the vehicle. So with that in mind, why not "space" the location of the IFS so it raises the vehicle to stock height? Just my 2 cents.
Phil

Actually, there is a solution, but not using any of the aftermarket Pinto based suspensions that are available.
One is to use a '73-'87 GM truck IFS. The advantages to it are keeping a close to stock right height and real truck load capacity and brakes. The downside, it is a bit too wide for most vintage trucks.
The other option is to use a Volare/Aspen front crossmember for the late '70s early '80s. Where this one really shines in the track width is pretty close, it's a self contained crossmember and suspension system, and real bonus, it is a torsion bar setup, which allows for adjustability for the ride height.

I agree with Phil that it seems that one purpose of the aftermarket IFS systems is to lower the vehicle.

My neighbor (he builds hot rods from scratch) says the center of gravity on Advance Design trucks needs to be lowered for increased handling and safety.

Thank You, Bill, for the Volare/Aspen info, I am going to look into that.

I'm thinking that maybe I can live with losing 3" in ride height, but I am still looking into alternatives.

Use a real truck IFS, and narrow the crossmember and relay rod about 3" by cutting a proper-sized slice out of the center and welding it back together. You'll need to fabricate a mounting point for the steering gear and the idler arm, but you won't lose the ability to use the vehicle like a real truck. Kenworths and Peterbilts handle safely with ride height much higher than an AD truck- - - - -why does an AD need to be lowered 3 inches?
Jerry

Jerry, I don't know personally why an AD truck would need to be lowered 3" or at all. I was repeating what my neighbor has told me several times. My thought is that is his opinion because of the hot rods he builds and he is a perfectionist for optimal handling.

I would like to retain as close to stock ride height as possible so I can put LT tires on it and it will look like a truck...thus exploring the possibilities.

Handling and safety concerns should have a bit more to do with proper steering and suspension geometry than some arbitrary comment about a specific amount of lowering, so I was being a little facetious about your neighbor's comment. It seems that most hotrodders believe that unless a golf ball sitting in the middle of the street is in danger of being launched by the front bumper, the vehicle hasn't been "slammed" enough. Back when I attended the master wheel alignment training course at the Hunter Engineering facility in St. Louis, the rule of thumb was that a vehicle's ride height could vary +/- 1 inch from its factory-designed ride height without adversely affecting the geometry its steering and suspension system was designed with. Ditto for track width- - - -keep the centerline of the tire tread within 1" of its original position, or induce some geometric errors that wheel alignment adjustments cannot correct. I have deliberately violated that principle on numerous projects, but I had a specific goal in mind. "Go fast- - - -Turn left"- - - - -better than the other 20-something cars on the dirt track!
Jerry

Straight axles get a bad rep. I don't know why. The geometry is as stable as it gets. Worn bits is the problem most of the time. Spring bushings, Tie rod ends, Pittman arm ends, and last but not least Caster angle wrong. IFS does have some advantages, better ride, lots of steering options, and Softer more progressive spring rates, and bolt hole number options. But let one of those little bits, go loose and IFS will get sloppy in a hurry. If you want Power steering, AC, and a sports car that looks like a truck, then IFS is for you. The geometry of the wheel center at or close to the frame height is nice, but a proper fully functional straight axle works well, under a truck. Dad had a 64 Ford pickup. And it was a straight axle king pin set up very much the same as what we have under our Stove Bolts. That truck had no power steering and was the one vehicle I could use when I started driving. Move, then turn. Worked every time. If body sway is an issue, there are anti sway bars that work well and are not too expensive from the usual Vendors.It is your Truck and it is your choice. But for me, the cost and effort, don't make that much sense.

Reviving this thread just FYI for those that are searching, Scott’s hotrods indicated you can retain stock ride height with their IFS setup. Not trying to start a war just some information I wanted to pass on.