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I hope I'm posting this in the right place.
I'm doing some early planning for building my 52 3600. At this time I'm thinking of keeping it stock looking, but with some needed upgrades. I would like to keep the solid axles but add better brakes. I would also like to add power steering or a rack and pinion. For the power plant I was thinking of sixties era 327 Chevy V8. Trying to keep the engine looking like it did in the sixties. I would back the engine with five speed manual. Might get about 250 to 300 horse power out of the V8.
My question at this time is,
1. Do I or should I box the frame? If I'm only running 300hp would the extra time boxing the frame be worth it.
3. If I don't box it would a X cross member help stiffen things up?
2. How will the extra weight of the V8 affect the front ride height? I plan on using new stock springs.

A little bit about my abilities.
This is my first car build. My background is in mechanical design and machining. I have experience and access to welders, waterjet and all kinds of manual and CNC machine tools. I can almost build anything out of metal if it not too time consuming or too expensive. The one area that makes me nerves is body work.

Thanks you for thoughts,

Hi Matt,

I just replaced my 235 with a 350. First impressions are that there is a lot more power with no adverse impact to handling. I think that the V8 is lighter than the original engine so your springs will be fine. Relative to boxing the frame, you won't need to if your goal is to maintain the original "feel" of your truck.

Power steering is a nice addition, especially if you run wider tires. Same with disc brakes, assuming you are staying with the straight axle long term. The best change I made to my pickup relative to handling was to add a front sway bar.

Best of luck! Let us know what you decide.

Thanks Grandpa's 56.
But now I have a new question. How were the improvements to the top speed and acceleration? Is the truck able to keep up with traffic? From what I have been reading on this forum the top speed with the inline six is barely 50mph.

I agree with G-Pa. Weight same or better. There are kits for power disc and power steering. Easy to do. None of it is super cheap. If you have enclosed drive shaft you have to ditch it for open. I don't like rack and pinion idea.

The small block Chevy is lighter than the original 6, so that won't be an issue. The frame is more than strong enough to handle any V8 you would want throw in it, no boxing necessary, in fact, it could be detrimental. The frames on those trucks are designed to flex, that's what makes them as strong as they are. The only reason you might need to add any crossmembers would be to allow for engine/transmission mounting, depending on how you do it.
Brakes might be an issue, since you have a 3600. There really are no kits to convert to disk. However, if you don't mind a little fabrication, you might consider this option. If you're also considering rear disk, check this out.
On steering, there are going to be a few issues. With the stock steering box, the drivers side exhaust manifold will interfere with the box on a V8 swap. Some guys move the box over a bit, others do a power steering swap with either a later model GM box or an early '80s Toyota truck box. On the V8 swaps I was involved with, one truck got subframed with a Camaro sub, the other got the box moved over. Personally, I would look into a smaller steering box. There is a rack and pinion setup out there for an I beam, I have seen one on a local F100. From the standpoint of someone that does suspension and alignment work professionally, those setups look hokey at best.

I agree about boxing. Frames were meant to flex. Boxing is for Hot Rods and Hot Rod frames. Check out Classic Performance Products PN 4954CBK-6. Classic Truck Parts of America PN 76-977. Don't know if recommended box 76-931 will interfere. But these kits may be of interest.

You might consider adding power to the brakes without changing to discs. I don't think there's anything wrong with those giant drums, as far as stopping power...lots more friction material in contact. Discs might be lighter and cool faster...good for a race car...and you could add them later, if desired.
You'll like the 327, and the (truck) 5-speed, presumably with overdrive, will be an excellent choice. I'm building a 327 from a '66 wagon...it was 275hp from the factory...probably end up in my '51 3100.
Have fun.

cm

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I just picked up a 327 for the truck. Needs a rebuild but that's ok because I would have done that anyways. It's a 62-63 casting with double hump heads and a cast 4 arrel intake.

I'd ditch the intake because of weight and heat. They're cheap new and used.

the best upgrade I've done to my jeep was TPI on a 327 with camelhumps, what an improvement.
might as will TPI

Just beware when you get into rebuilding, an early 327 like that will be small journal block for the crankshaft. Not bad in any way, but just an issue if you get into having to replace the crank due to a crack or something during rebuild, you just need to know that you need to find another small journal crank. Should be fine though, should be forged crank and forged rods.

All of the 327 crankshafts are forged, small or large journal.

One other note, the 327 truck engine never came with double hump heads.

That's good to learn, I thought 327 large journal cranks were cast. Always trying to learn...

327 cranks were all steel,until 68 when they lowered compression by changing wrist pin location and changing main bearing size.at that time you seen alot of cast cranks.'69-70 was the last of 327.always was a good long term motor choice

I have been trying to talk my brother into another small block for his truck. He wants a 5.3 with a 4 speed auto. I am trying to talk him into a 350 built a bit and made to look like the original 327 his truck came with, and putting in a 4 speed auto. He wants the power and mileage, I want some power and original looks.