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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 11
S
New Guy
New Guy
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I ordered two mirror arms and mirrors for my 46 1/2ton. I see how they should go on but it is not working. Jim Carter people told me to screw them to the door. There is a flange with a threaded hole on them but they line up with the cab. Any one know how these go on correctly?

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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They do not screw onto the door. They screw onto the side of the door hinge that is bolted to the cab. There is a countersunk hole in the hinge to accept a flat head machine screw.

Joined: Sep 2013
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New Guy
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Thanks Sput, makes more sense now, but I am not seeing the counter sunk hole. Any chance you could please send a pic or two?

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'Bolter
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My trucks are parked elsewhere, so I can't get a picture.

Here is a picture front the internet that shows the countersunk hole on the lower left hinge piece.
Click

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'Bolter
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Mine don't screw or bolt to anything.

Is this what you have?

All you have to do is take the hinge pin out, put the mirror arm in, and put a new longer hinge pin back in. The threaded hole could be used to secure it to the hinge, but I found that unnecessary. I had to grind the little tab slight as it was too thick but otherwise it worked great.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
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Thanks, that helps a lot!

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C
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There is a screw on it to adjust and hold in a specific area
Dan

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This is something I am needing to do to. I can see the hole on my hinges but the cab sheet metal is in the way. If one decides to use that small screw hole, it looks like you have to remove the entire hinge just to put the bracket on. By the time I got them off, one may as well replace them with new hinges! Or am I missing something?


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'Bolter
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Having installed it without the screw and driven it over 5000 miles that way with no mirror vibration or problems I don't think it's necessary to put a screw in.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket
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M
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Tricky part is getting pin out (usually requires heat) without damaging surrounding finish (not a problem with rat rods)

Last edited by Miss Church; 11/09/2014 11:59 AM.
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'Bolter
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To remove the pins on my 38 Master, which is similar, I used the ball joint/u-joint press. It is fashioned like a very large u clamp. I used a small bolt to push on the bottom of the pin and a socket over the head of the pin that rests on the hinge body. It really screeched when it started to move but it caused no damage.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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Originally Posted by Miss Church
Tricky part is getting pin out (usually requires heat) without damaging surrounding finish (not a problem with rat rods)

PB blaster a couple days in a row and then a small hammer and drift pin is all that is needed.


My Fleet:
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1953 Willy's Pickup

John

Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
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'Bolter
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To remove the pin I heated it carefully with a handheld propane torch and then used a hammer and punch.


1946 GMC Pickup - S-10 Frame, 455 Buick, TH400, original patina.

My 46 GMC on Photobucket

Moderated by  Gdads51 

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