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| | | Forums66 Topics128,282 Posts1,058,492 Members48,490 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 8 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 8 | I bought a 1959 one ton panel a week ago with a late model rear end, probably a 3/4 ton (I saved the truck just before it was hot rodded). The truck only has 9,200 miles on it and the original rear end had been removed for a few years and sitting outside. I want to put the original rear end back in the truck (putting it all back original), however I was surprised to see the differential cover was rusted with several dozen pencil lead sized holes. The inside has surface rust on everything. Is there someone out there who rebuilds late 50s one ton rear ends? Can any local shop do it? Should I just stick with the late model 3/4 ton rear end that's in there? Any thoughts and/or suggestions would be welcome. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The late rear end was probably put there to give a more desirable highway worthy gear ratio. If you put in the original you will be limited to about 55 MPH. Then you will be looking for some kind of o-drive to put in. The late rear end probably takes the same wheels. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 8 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 8 | Wrenchbender: Thanks for the info. I am going to gather info on the late model rear end that is in it tonight and find out more about it. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,117 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,117 | You will probably find that parts are easier to find with the newer rearend too. That would be a bonus. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 8 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2014 Posts: 8 | The rear end seems to be out of a late 80s Suburban 2500. No problem, I guess, except it is about 4 inches (maybe more) wider and the hub is a little wider which means the original wheels do not fit. I don't mind using the late model rear end but I want to keep the stock look (and the wrong wheels and a little wider affect that). I would appreciate more input. Thanks, Jeff. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2010 Posts: 592 | I think the original rear end would have been an Eaton HO72. The stock ratio was 4.56, but it was also available in a 5.15. 1959 was the first year that limited slip was available as an option.
It will not be hard to find a replacement original with a 4.56 (either an Eaton HO52 or an HO72), but as stated above, this will give you a very low top end. The highest ratio you will be able to convert to is 4.10. These were available in the same Eaton rear end on 1967-72 3/4 and 1 tons trucks, mostly with automatic transmissions. The 4.10's are getting hard to find.
A 4.10 versus a 4.56 will give you a 10% increase in highway speed at the same RPM.
Matt | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 1,775 | I'm assuming you have a 14 bolt 8 lug rearend under your suburban. To narrow it up, you have a couple choices. First, you could use hubs from a dually truck. They'll put your wheels pretty much in the same spot as the original rearend.
Secondly, you can use Eaton style hubs. You'll have to change out the bearings, due to the fact the Eaton hubs have a larger spindle shaft. With the Eaton hubs, you'll have a 64-65" WMS whereas the dually hubs and the original rearend were 62-63"
With both methods, you'll have to retrofit your brakes for a narrower drum. Late 80's/90's vans have a narrower drum that may fit the bill.
Chris | | |
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