The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1937 216 restoration

What are some good references/books/websites for restoring a 1937 216 to factory condition and appearance? Paint codes, what gets what finish, spark plugs/wires, etc? I'm starting from scratch here on a truck motor next spring and want to begin to gather components. Its a 1.5 ton, so the engine SN should start with a "T" from what I see from GM Heritage. Anything else I need to be on the lookout for? Thanks!

Yes Doug. Be on the lookout for an engine machine shop that understands how to do babbit bearing work. Its a lost art and these days lots of us have trouble finding a competent babbit machinist. Its a very worthwhile project and I really enjoyed that same experience with my 1950 216, but I was lucky to find an 80 year old man who did babbit work. I hope others chime in with books and references for you. Good luck!

Not Stovebolt specific, but for a detailed mechanical text, one of my favorites is The Engine Builder's Handbook. Excellent overview on engine building, with detailed trips into upgrade options for rodding and racing if wanted (I didn't, but I still love the book).

-Michael

Doug,

As you may already know 1937 was the first year for the 216. To confirm you really have a 1937 motor the serial number will be between 1 and 1187821 with the "T" prefix for Truck. This number could also be the identification number on your title...

The engine was painted dark gray, the actual paint codes have been a mystery from the very beginning. Most vendors sell paint that they believe is the correct color. On the judging field no judge will dock you points as long as it's gray and painted correctly. The engine was painted after it was assembled including the manifolds and bell housing. The bolt on items for the most part were painted black (Dist., Gen., Starter, Carb (cast iron). The fan is one of those things that can be debated 'til the cows come home, but I believe they were gray.

This web site is a great resource so ask away!

Mike B

Thanks folks!
I ordered a book on babbitt pouring the other day, even if I don't do it myself, it'll end up being helpful to know what I'm talking about. I already have a copy of Engine Builders Handbook, which boost my confidence in doing the work. I've helped others assemble motors before, so it's not all new to me.

My truck came with a bearing 1956 235, which I'll keep in case I end up using the truck more than I expect. I purchased a 1953 (last year) 216 out of a half ton that is in rough shape. A fellow forum member is hooking me up with what should be a proper 1937 motor out of his parts 1937 1.5 ton truck, so I'm hoping the numbers line up with the year and "T". I didn't realize the number should match the cab as well, so as close as I can get then I suppose.

In your paint experience, were the manifolds painted gray as well, or was it just bolted on and therefore just showing over spray?

I believe the early 216's had wider connecting rod big ends. I've got a set of the wide rods stashed away somewhere, I think. The rod bearings weren't poured originally, the Babbit was applied with a spray-welding technique with the rods spinning in a special fixture. Apparently that equipment was scrapped decades ago. Do a little research- - - -there are plenty of reconditioned rods available, including undersizes for reground crankshafts. The 216/235 splasher rods can also be bored and honed for replaceable bearings.
Jerry

Go with insert bearings on your rods if you rebuild your engine. As Jerry noted few people pour babbit any more but you can get bearings about anywhere.

Doug,

I didn't mean to mislead you regarding the engine serial number...it will NOT match the Chassis numbers. May years ago in most States the identification number used for title purposes was the engine number. This became a real problem as the engines failed and got replaced with another used engine...now the title doesn't match the truck. To help correct this the States started using the Chassis serial number in the mid 50's. Since you don't have the original engine none of this matters, however you may want to check your title to see if it used the engine or chassis number to identify it.

Mike B

Just sent you a Private email.

Bob C

Did the 37 216 not have babbit main bearings? That could be a deal breaker, given the scarcity of the rig for align boring the multiple-sized mains, let alone finding someone who knows how to do it and is still alive. Could be very expensive unless he'll take a dollar and a dime a day like he did 70 years ago.
Carl