The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Want put a 350 in 59 Burb.

Howdy,
Been doing a lots of research. Think I'm going to swap out the 235 and put in a 350 in the 59 Burb. Would like a little more torque than a 283 will give me while towing a 1963 RV trailer various places. Plus a want to run some A/C. I'd like this configuration to dress up to look retro. (I'm a Chevy orange and black engine and component kinda guy). There's about 2 gazillion 350s for sale on Craigs list, etc. Questions:
- since I'm gonna have it rebuilt, should I try to stay in the early 70s with the long block I purchase? Does it matter?
- put a towing cam in?
- go stock quadrate and manifold over Eidelbrock, etc.?
- stay with stock 4 speed or 3 speed overdrive…. or auto tranny?
- Will stock Chevrolet script valve covers from the era fit on the 350?
- Will stock ramshorn exhaust manifolds fit?

Thanks! Maddog

I can see this getting moved to the HiPo forum real soon. Good luck with your project.

This is a very common swap for a TF truck. Keep in mind that nothing from the 235 will fit a V-8. Also the V-8 engine is 5" shorter than the 6 so you will probably need a radiator shroud if you go with an auto trans. Also a new radiator with a trans cooler or a separate cooler. You can retain your stock trans by using a V-8 truck bellhousing. There are a number of overdrive options available also. Rams horns will work as they were factory to a V-8 powered 59. There are as many intake manifold/carburetor combinations as there are bellybuttons.
You may consider a new crate engine as opposed to buying an engine then having to rebuild it. The script covers will fit if they have the straight across bolt pattern, however they were not designed for crankcase ventilation. It was provided on the intake and rear of block on early engines.
Fred

I agree....go to the local GM parts dept. and buy a crate motor. Its easier and cheaper than buying one then having it rebuilt. The crate motor is all brand new and comes with a warranty.

Two options IMO, buy a running 350 for $400 or a crate for $4000+. A "rebuilt motor" can turn into a nightmare money wise and/or leaks/problems. If a $400 motor does not pan out you are only out a little money. If seller says "rebuilt", don't buy that one. Pre 73 motors (pre smog)are more HP but they, of course, are older/more miles. Find one you can hear, see, smell and compression test. If you are not a shifter type guy, an automatic is easier to install, easier to drive, great OD and cheaper to rebuild. Quadrajet or Edelbrock carb with aluminum intake is a good idea. All the rest has been answered. This is an easy swap with using the universal tubular type motor and tranny cross members. It will look just great under there. Lokar makes an automatic nostalgic shifter that looks like a truck 4 speed. I've owned many TF burbs and panels. My favorites!

In the latest Jegs catalog they are offering a standard 69-85 260 HP 350 crate engine for $1500 shipped to your door. I have installed several of them over the last few years and they perform well. Of course you still have to obtain the manifolds, carburetor, distributor, and the accessories but it's still the best deal out there. You should be able to source all the other engine components for less than $1000. As Bartamos stated, stay away from the "rebuilt" ones unless you can establish that it done by a reliable rebuilder.
Fred

I replaced the 235 in my truck, 58 gmc w/chevy motor, using a 350. You'll need the V8 bell housing and flywheel w/clutch. I reused all the rest of my drive train. I used the saddle mount for the engine and with the bell housing sitting on the original mounts and a long water pump the fan needed a 2' spacer to get the fan close enough to the radiator for cooling. As for headers, I used the Sanderson block hugger from Summit racing, plenty of room for steering box. I needed the extra hp so I could pull my small camper behind the truck. It can be done easily. Larry