BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I've checked the usual spots but either missed them or they don't have them..... the bushings for the axle swivels that bolt onto the springs. Anyone have a source for them that you can share? Thanks
Last edited by Achipmunk; 10/01/2014 6:30 PM.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Tim, how in the world did I miss them. Thanks Tim. You da man. (I called a couple of the regular vendors I deal with and both of them told me they didn't have them and didn't think anyone reproduced them) ....another stovebolt victory  | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Alvin,
You could also go overboard and get Steele Rubber to vulcanize rubber around the metal central-tube inside the original housing-mount ($$$).
However, the GM replacement part was/is just like the part sold by Chevs of the 40.
| | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | The listing I see is for a car. This is the first time that I have seen them explicitly describe the function properly. I am also thinking that the actual photo is for a different application. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Same part for trucks. Sorry You are correct. Description is incorrect: "These are bushings with nuts and bolts for the shackle to leaf spring on a 1/2 ton pickup." The title is more correct: "Rear End To Spring" You have me second-guessing - that center bolt seems very long. The length is needed for the width of the brackets/hanger on the axle. (this comment added later in the edit)
Last edited by tclederman; 10/14/2014 1:58 PM. Reason: bolt-length comment added
| | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,285 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,285 | I think the expensive "Steele" approach may be the only alternative. Steele Rubber bushing revulcanize | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | The car and truck 1/2 ton bushings are the same where they attach to the spring I believe.
John | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | What about making your own? Post about Flexane94 | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | With a little research or a call to Reynolds you can pick one of these Urethanes that will match the hardness of the rubber you are replacing. The trial unit is 3lbs. and runs a little over $30 plus shipping. This is a 2.75lb. unit of Flexible foam I’m going to experiment with this winter for making weather strip seals for the front sheet metal, but it’s typical of the trial units: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/157686924 Data for Urethanes of higher durometer: http://www.reynoldsam.com/product-category/urethane-rubber/This would be similar to the Flexane 80 http://www.reynoldsam.com/product/pmc-780/ Where on the Shore A scale do I want to be? http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=shore_durometer_hardness_test One thing to keep in mind is these materials only have a shelf life of about a year un-opened, once you open them you can cut that down to a few months. So it’s best to plan your project out so you use up all of your material, even if it’s pouring some washers or small sheets with the left overs. Plan Ahead! Here's a mistake I made several years ago in purchasing the material for a future project, which ended up being 10 years in the future: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/157686961And, the Devcon is $15-$20 more for 1/3 the material. dg
Last edited by Denny Graham; 10/04/2014 1:38 PM.
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | Joined: May 2012 Posts: 30 New Guy | New Guy Joined: May 2012 Posts: 30 | I am going to have to take a set of these axle shackles off another reared that isn't worn like mine. My question is: these huge bolts are so tight I am going to have to cut them off, I just wanted to make sure that it is a regular bolt that goes into a sleeve and not threaded in weird. | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 | The purpose of the axle to rear spring seat bushings is to dampen out road noise at its source and in doing so, prevents it from telegraphing through the springs to the frame into the body. Also eliminates any axle to spring binding when the springs compress/decompress. The bushing eye bolt size is: 5/8 - 18 x 4 1/16Group # 5.404 Once you replace bushings you have to seat them. Rear Bushing Seating instructions below: Page 1 Page 2 The shop manual states there is a cotter pin at eye bolt nut. This Illustration does not show a cotter pin. Just lock washer & nut. The bushing has a inner metal sleeve so when tightening the eye bolt the ears on the axle will not collapse inward. | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | I don't think that is the bushing that is being discussed here. We are talking about the spring/axle swivel. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Group 5.403 at the illustration link shown by jorb. Is what jorb is referring to, and what I was referring to. It is the seat that sits on/near the center of a rear spring and is attached to the axle. | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | My mistake, I was looking at the first illustration on the first of the two links.
So, do they sell a replacement or is previous Chevs of the 40s catalog wrong? | | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 | So, do they sell a replacement or is previous Chevs of the 40s catalog wrong? To clear up the misunderstanding. The Chevs of the 40s links ONE Car, and TWO Truck, that tclederman posted are really bushings for the ends of the leaf springs. On both the pages, the heading says "Differential Bushing -Bolt With Nut, Rear End To Spring" which is misleading. When you read the page body it says "These are bushings with bolts, nut. shackle to leaf spring."The heading should say "These are bushings with bolts, nut. shackle to leaf spring."Chevs of the 40s screwed up. The SPRING SEAT Master Parts Cat. part# 3652182 Group# 5.403 Greg_H posted this LINK Steele Rubber will repair the Spring Seat. no part sevice only. Obsolete Chevy Parts Co might have a NOS SPRING SEAT You might need the RUBBER WASHERS (spring seat Seal) Master Parts Cat. part# 597267 Group# 5.404 Chevs of the 40s has them HERE Steele Rubber has them HERE Spring Seat from 1954 Chevrolet 3100 Panel Truck Pic ONE Pic TWO I can't find who carries the Spring Seat hanger eye bolt. MPC Group# 5.404, part# 597268 | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | Jorb, thanks for that great summary. That clears it up for sure. | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Nice explanation (for the second time), jorb
I have used the Chevs of the 40s bushing on two 1/2 ton 1954 trucks.
It is a tight fit in the metal seat. Here is how I installed each bushing: - clean and polish the journal in the seat - freeze the bushing - wipe the inside of the seat with a little thin lubricant (like WD-40) - press or hammer the bushing into the seat - put the seals on each side of the bushing - place the bushing inside the "hangers" on the axle - put the bolt in place and tighten - torque to ??
| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Nice explanations (two times - both posts), jorb
As I posted above: You are correct. Description is incorrect: "These are bushings with nuts and bolts for the shackle to leaf spring on a 1/2 ton pickup."
The title is more correct: "Rear End To Spring"
I have used the Chevs of the 40s bushing on two 1/2 ton 1954 trucks.
It is a tight fit in the metal seat. Here is how I installed each bushing: - clean and polish the journal in the seat - freeze the bushing - wipe the inside of the seat with a little thin lubricant (like WD-40) - press or hammer the bushing into the seat - put the seals on each side of the bushing - place the bushing inside the "hangers" on the axle - put the bolt in place and tighten - torque to ??
| | | | Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2011 Posts: 1,149 | Thanks for the Kudos Tim! According to what your saying, There's more than one way to skin a cat. You can Press these inside the Spring Seat metal housing. Which is probably the cheapest route. Or spend big bucks, Re-vulcanizing them at Steele Rubber or on the planet Vulcan. Spock's home planet. Pricey Or luck out, and find some NOS or Used Spring Seats. Old rubber, not good. I like the first way the best! Peace Out | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Spock or not, jorb, you know how people are biased against off-planet products?
The Chevs of the 40s product has over 10 years of use on it. It is still as tight as it was when I pressed/pushed/hammered it in.
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