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Joined: Dec 2001
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
I've checked the usual spots but either missed them or they don't have them..... the bushings for the axle swivels that bolt onto the springs.
Anyone have a source for them that you can share? Thanks

Last edited by Achipmunk; 10/01/2014 6:30 PM.

1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
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What year/size, Alvin?

Most likely this is what you need?

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Tim, how in the world did I miss them. Thanks Tim. You da man.

(I called a couple of the regular vendors I deal with and both of them told me they didn't have them and didn't think anyone reproduced them)

....another stovebolt victory smile


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262

Alvin,

You could also go overboard and get Steele Rubber to vulcanize rubber around the metal central-tube inside the original housing-mount ($$$).

However, the GM replacement part was/is just like the part sold by Chevs of the 40.

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,112
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 9,112
The listing I see is for a car. This is the first time that I have seen them explicitly describe the function properly. I am also thinking that the actual photo is for a different application.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Same part for trucks. Sorry

You are correct. Description is incorrect: "These are bushings with nuts and bolts for the shackle to leaf spring on a 1/2 ton pickup."

The title is more correct: "Rear End To Spring"

You have me second-guessing - that center bolt seems very long. The length is needed for the width of the brackets/hanger on the axle. (this comment added later in the edit)

Last edited by tclederman; 10/14/2014 1:58 PM. Reason: bolt-length comment added
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G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
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I think the expensive "Steele" approach may be the only alternative. Steele Rubber bushing revulcanize

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W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
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The car and truck 1/2 ton bushings are the same where they attach to the spring I believe.

John

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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What about making your own? Post about Flexane94


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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Posts: 9,671
D
'Bolter
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D Offline
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With a little research or a call to Reynolds you can pick one of these Urethanes that will
match the hardness of the rubber you are replacing. The trial unit is 3lbs. and runs a
little over $30 plus shipping.
This is a 2.75lb. unit of Flexible foam I’m going to experiment with this winter for making
weather strip seals for the front sheet metal, but it’s typical of the trial units:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/157686924

Data for Urethanes of higher durometer:
http://www.reynoldsam.com/product-category/urethane-rubber/
This would be similar to the Flexane 80
http://www.reynoldsam.com/product/pmc-780/
Where on the Shore A scale do I want to be?
http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=shore_durometer_hardness_test

One thing to keep in mind is these materials only have a shelf life of about a year
un-opened, once you open them you can cut that down to a few months. So it’s
best to plan your project out so you use up all of your material, even if it’s pouring
some washers or small sheets with the left overs. Plan Ahead!
Here's a mistake I made several years ago in purchasing the
material for a future project, which ended up being
10 years in the future:
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/157686961
And, the Devcon is $15-$20 more for 1/3 the material.
dg

Last edited by Denny Graham; 10/04/2014 1:38 PM.

Denny G
Sandwich, IL
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I am going to have to take a set of these axle shackles off another reared that isn't worn like mine. My question is: these huge bolts are so tight I am going to have to cut them off, I just wanted to make sure that it is a regular bolt that goes into a sleeve and not threaded in weird.

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J
Shop Shark
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The purpose of the axle to rear spring seat bushings is to dampen out road noise at its source and in doing so,
prevents it from telegraphing through the springs to the frame into the body.
Also eliminates any axle to spring binding when the springs compress/decompress.

The bushing eye bolt size is: 5/8 - 18 x 4 1/16
Group # 5.404

Once you replace bushings you have to seat them.
Rear Bushing Seating instructions below:
Page 1
Page 2

The shop manual states there is a cotter pin at eye bolt nut.
This Illustration does not show a cotter pin. Just lock washer & nut.

The bushing has a inner metal sleeve so when tightening the eye
bolt the ears on the axle will not collapse inward.

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I don't think that is the bushing that is being discussed here. We are talking about the spring/axle swivel.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Posts: 29,262

Group 5.403 at the illustration link shown by jorb. Is what jorb is referring to, and what I was referring to.

It is the seat that sits on/near the center of a rear spring and is attached to the axle.

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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My mistake, I was looking at the first illustration on the first of the two links.

So, do they sell a replacement or is previous Chevs of the 40s catalog wrong?


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
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Posts: 1,149
J
Shop Shark
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Originally Posted by truckernix
So, do they sell a replacement or is previous Chevs of the 40s catalog wrong?
To clear up the misunderstanding.
The Chevs of the 40s
links ONE Car, and TWO Truck, that tclederman posted are really bushings for the ends of the leaf springs.
On both the pages, the heading says "Differential Bushing -Bolt With Nut, Rear End To Spring" which is misleading.
When you read the page body it says "These are bushings with bolts, nut. shackle to leaf spring."
The heading should say "These are bushings with bolts, nut. shackle to leaf spring."
Chevs of the 40s screwed up.

The SPRING SEAT Master Parts Cat. part# 3652182 Group# 5.403
Greg_H posted this LINK Steele Rubber will repair the Spring Seat. no part sevice only.
Obsolete Chevy Parts Co might have a NOS SPRING SEAT

You might need the RUBBER WASHERS (spring seat Seal) Master Parts Cat. part# 597267 Group# 5.404
Chevs of the 40s has them HERE
Steele Rubber has them HERE

Spring Seat from 1954 Chevrolet 3100 Panel Truck
Pic ONE
Pic TWO

I can't find who carries the Spring Seat hanger eye bolt.
MPC Group# 5.404, part# 597268

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Jorb,
thanks for that great summary. That clears it up for sure.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,262

Nice explanation (for the second time), jorb

I have used the Chevs of the 40s bushing on two 1/2 ton 1954 trucks.

It is a tight fit in the metal seat. Here is how I installed each bushing:
- clean and polish the journal in the seat
- freeze the bushing
- wipe the inside of the seat with a little thin lubricant (like WD-40)
- press or hammer the bushing into the seat
- put the seals on each side of the bushing
- place the bushing inside the "hangers" on the axle
- put the bolt in place and tighten
- torque to ??

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Posts: 29,262

Nice explanations (two times - both posts), jorb

As I posted above:
You are correct. Description is incorrect: "These are bushings with nuts and bolts for the shackle to leaf spring on a 1/2 ton pickup."

The title is more correct: "Rear End To Spring"


I have used the Chevs of the 40s bushing on two 1/2 ton 1954 trucks.

It is a tight fit in the metal seat. Here is how I installed each bushing:
- clean and polish the journal in the seat
- freeze the bushing
- wipe the inside of the seat with a little thin lubricant (like WD-40)
- press or hammer the bushing into the seat
- put the seals on each side of the bushing
- place the bushing inside the "hangers" on the axle
- put the bolt in place and tighten
- torque to ??

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J
Shop Shark
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Thanks for the Kudos Tim!

According to what your saying, There's more than one way to skin a cat.
You can Press these inside the Spring Seat metal housing.
Which is probably the cheapest route.

Or spend big bucks,
Re-vulcanizing them at Steele Rubber or on the planet Vulcan. Spock's home planet.
Pricey

Or luck out,
and find some NOS or Used Spring Seats.
Old rubber, not good.

I like the first way the best!

Peace Out

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Posts: 29,262

Spock or not, jorb, you know how people are biased against off-planet products?

The Chevs of the 40s product has over 10 years of use on it. It is still as tight as it was when I pressed/pushed/hammered it in.


Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

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