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Question for those of you with electrical knowledge.
This is regarding a later model vehicle, (1982 el camino). There are two fuseable links down by the starter, the wires are cracked and broken. I want to replace them with new but not sure how to determine what size the links are. I see 16 on each link, but the wires coming and going to the links are 10 gauge. The replacements that I found at flaps are smaller.Any suggestions before I head to the pull a part with some wire cutters?

The rule of thumb is 2 sizes smaller then the wire it is going to serve.

The fuse links on virtually all GM wiring harnesses are very similar. Your pull-a-part idea is a good one. Cut the donor conductors several inches downstream from the fuse link and do a "Western Union" splice into your wiring harness using the copper wire, not the fuse wire. Then solder the connection and use shrink tubing to insulate it. DO NOT try to do a crimp connector splice- - - -these are heavy current conductors to such things as the ignition switch, headlights, etc. Getting a good, low-resistance crimp connection is very unlikely.
Jerry

Ok thanks George will have to remember 2 sizes smaller than what it will serve.

Jerry, back from pull a part, I like going there for stuff like wire and small connectors they usually give it for free. Yes I will splice like you suggested. I don't like those crip on connectors and it is a heavy current wire as it is feeding everything inside the car.

Thanks for the info.

I thought a fusible link wire should be 4 sizes smaller not two, which is correct? 53 3100

The wire gauge size of the link is not nearly as important as the material- - - -it's not regular copper wire. The whole idea of a fuse link is to protect the wire harness downstream, so only a short section burns out. Fusible link wire melts at a lot lower temperature than copper, so the wire gauge size does not have much relationship to its melting point. I've tried to solder fuse wire occasionally, and it's almost impossible to do- - - -the wire has only a slightly higher melting point than lead/tin solder.

Here's a chart listing fuse link sizes and corresponding current capacities:

Circuit Hypalon Link Type MAXI Fuse Rating Circuit Wire
Alternator Feed (R6) 12 gauge (black) 160 amp (2x80 in parallel) 8 gauge (BK)
Radiator Fan (C26) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 14 gauge (GY)
Ignition Feed (J10) 18 gauge (grey) 50 amp 12 gauge (PK/BK*)
Ignition Feed (J1) 20 gauge (orange) 40 amp 12 gauge (RD)
ECU/ASD Feed (J1) 22 gauge (white) 30 amp 12 gauge (PK)
Direct Battery Feed (L1) 18 gauge (grey) 50 amp 12 gauge (RD/WT*)
Heated Rear Window (C13) 18 gauge (grey) 40 amp 12 gauge (BK/RD*)
Hazard Flasher (A3) 20 gauge (orange) 20 amp 14 gauge (PK)

Jerry

My question is, why did they go to fusible links in the first place?

It was the "baby chick" syndrome- - - - -

CHEEP
CHEEP
CHEEP!

Fusible links cost a lot less than installing a heavy-duty fuse holder. For some reason, very complex, expensive power distribution centers with "Maxi Fuses" in critical supply circuits are in use on modern cars, instead of fuse links.
Jerry

I'll bet those fusible links going bad made for a lot of new automobile sales.
Carl

MAD Electrical

Good read, Tiny. Now I am starting to like fusible links a little better. I just remember back in the day, the mystery surrounding the fusible link. It was often blamed (incorrectly) for all kinds of maladies.
Carl