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#1061232 10/09/2014 1:25 PM
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1954 235 z TDC question

This may sound elementary
If my pointer is on the ball and rotor pointing to number 1 wire
and both my pushrods are loose on # 1

Would that mean that #1 is on the compression stroke.

Or does that happen again in the cycle?



Second
Last time I did a compression check I only removed the spark plug on the cylinder I was testing. Is that correct or should I have them all removed ?


Thanks

DADS50 #1061236 10/09/2014 1:29 PM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Quote
If my pointer is on the ball and rotor pointing to number 1 wire
and both my pushrods are loose on # 1

Would that mean that #1 is on the compression stroke.

Yes - regarding compression stroke (move flywheel/crankshaft until both push rods are loose)

DADS50 #1061237 10/09/2014 1:32 PM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Quote
Last time I did a compression check I only removed the spark plug on the cylinder I was testing. Is that correct or should I have them all removed ?

This procedure looks OK:
"Disconnect the main wire to the coil and spark plug wires; remove spark plugs."

Remove all spark plugs - 1954 Truck Shop Manual

DADS50 #1061246 10/09/2014 2:22 PM
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I guess "plugs in" would work for compression issues related to rings or valve seating (cylinder specific issues), but might not be so good at accurately diagnosing bad head gasket/ cracked head (compression loss between two cylinders).

Am I thinking of that correctly?


1951 3100
DADS50 #1061247 10/09/2014 2:25 PM
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This shows the 4 stroke engine. Intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. This should help you identify where your at when bringing an engine to TDC for installing a distributor.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_engine

DADS50 #1061282 10/09/2014 5:58 PM
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Remember the ball is not actually tdc. It should be 5deg before with all the info I have found over the years.

wolffcub #1061286 10/09/2014 6:09 PM
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Originally Posted by wolffcub
Remember the ball is not actually tdc. It should be 5deg before with all the info I have found over the years.
That is correct for most year flywheels, but the timing mark could be before or after TDC depending on year and engine (216/235/261) flywheel.

To complicate this, people often changed flywheels for various reasons.

DADS50 #1061291 10/09/2014 6:46 PM
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Yes
I'm not referring to true TDC
But for starting and timing purposes.

Thanks for the information



tclederman #1061293 10/09/2014 7:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tclederman
Originally Posted by wolffcub
Remember the ball is not actually tdc. It should be 5deg before with all the info I have found over the years.
That is correct for most year flywheels, but the timing mark could be before or after TDC depending on year and engine (216/235/261) flywheel.

To complicate this, people often changed flywheels for various reasons.

My head just exploded.

Can I at least assume that the timing mark is close enough to TDC for initial timing/ startup purposes? Or can the mark be way off and meaningless if the flywheel was replaced?


1951 3100
DADS50 #1061310 10/09/2014 9:45 PM
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If the wrong or different flywheel is used on another engine setting the timing to the ball can cause a black hole..... everything as we know it will end.

The ball mark will get the engine running fine. Then adjust from there after your running.

DADS50 #1061333 10/10/2014 12:19 AM
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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As wolffcub posted, any timing mark/ball will get you close enough to get it started.

After getting the carburetor adjusted to idle speed, I use a vacuum gauge to adjust timing and carburetor mixture to obtain maximum vacuum reading.


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