The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Noisy lifter ?

About 2 years ago I started having a issue of loud tappets when I started my 62 235. Not every time, some times it's quiet, some times it sounds like it's coming apart, like a echoing noise and quiets to tappet noise. Then the next time I start it it's quiet. The motor only has 1700 miles on the rebuild. I've changed two lifters that I thought were the problem. I'm tired of removing the floor boards. HELP!

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/valveadjustment.htm This'll make valve adjustments Quick and easy! Sounds like you may have a bent pushrod, behind the inspection cover. I had one do that,on my 261. sometimes the rod would rotate enough not to make noise,then,it would rotate to the cover side,and rattle like crazy.,and with that "echoing noise". Wish I had better news for ya!

If that's it, that will be great I've all ready had the inspection cover off three times, I have spun the push rods,but I'll check that again. Thanks for the input. I'm from Waterloo

Check for interference with the oil line which feeds the top end oil supply (if that applies to the 62 engine. I've never worked on a 62).
Carl

It looks like there is no oil line - there is an internal passage.

Ordered two more lifters, Ready to take up the floor boards again. All I can do is try to find the noisy one and change it. The last time I was sure I had it. I've changed #4 and 10. Could it be a oiling problem? I have 40 PSI on the block and 17 at the top of the head. Some times I start it and it's quiet. Help

Have you done the "groove the bottom of the pushrod" trick? Apparently the 235 lifters have a problem bleeding air out of the inner chamber, and cutting a very shallow groove in the ball-shaped end of the pushrod where it meets the lifter allows a small volume of oil to circulate through the lifter and purge air out in the process. A Dremel tool cutoff wheel works just right to cut the grooves. There's a tech tip somewhere on the process.
Jerry

I don't think there is a tech tip on it but I have a wright up about grooving pushrods and hydraulic lifters on my Blog.
I do not believe grooving the pushrods will help in this case but it is worth a try.

Still fighting this problem. I've put a new rocker assembly on because the oil wasn't oiling evenly. That didn't help. In this cold weather it hammers all the way until the motor gets up to temp.,it's getting worse. And it sounds like more than one. I think I'm going the try the groove in the push rods. What do you guys think?

I hope this doesn't pretain to your problem but I fought the same problem with a small block, 283, in one of my trucks in years past. I'd replace a lifter here and there trying to get rid of a slapping lifter sound and ended up with my father in law looking at it. Old time mechanic told me cracked piston around the wrist pin. I thought, you're crazy, how can you tell by just pulling a plug wire here and there. Experience, he was right, I had one piston come apart in my hands while removing it and the other was obviously cracked. The sound seamed to come from the lifter but didn't. I hope you find an easier solution.Larry

Push rods can be checked for straight, if you have it down far enough to remove a lifter, then the push rods are out. Roll each one on a flat surface with your fingers in the middle. You can feel even a small bend. If I read the post correctly, you have changed the rocker arm shaft. Have you got good oil running at all the rocker arms? Have you looked close at the end of each rocker where it contacts the valve? Are they flat and smooth? Is there a worn spot on the valve stem? If you don't have good oil at the rockers you will get noise. If the valve stem or rocker arm are not smooth and flat, you will get noise. Any dirt or crud in the oil lines can cause all sorts of problems. Loss of oil to a lifter will let it collapse. Look close and let us know what you find.