The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts thoughts on frame rust

I'm cleaning up the frame on my 65 c50 and it has some rust on the leaf spring mounts. I curious how much is to much rust and if I should make new mounts and fix the frame. or can just clean it up really good and paint it.picture aren't that great but this is what I have.




http://s1035.photobucket.com/user/j...8749_zpscdbb1224.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5


http://s1035.photobucket.com/user/j...7149_zpsd857ec29.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4

hope those post to see

I'd be worried about the crack in the frame and also the welding that has been gobbed on below the crack. You may want to really look things over good as see if the frame is worth using or maybe be easier to find another frame.

that corrosion isn't terrible, but as Don says, if you don't have the expertise to fix that frame crack properly, the spring mounts aren't worth worrying about

Bill

I have a 1960's factory filmstrip on exactly these kinds of repairs which means it was common. I have not uploaded it yet let me see if I can get it done tonight and I will post the link.

for the most part the back is the only part that's bad. I figured someone would say something about the crack. the bed I'm putting on gonna fix it. I'm gonna clean up all the mess weld it back up. then the bed will hold most of the back of frame.

this is the whole truck. I've had my eye on it for couple years now. I got it few months back. the plan is to put Detroit 4-53 in it. just waiting on guy to call about the price on engine.

http://s1035.photobucket.com/user/j...2435_zps30c462f1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6

Your strength in your frame is in the flange, and thats where it is cracked. If you are actually use the truck, it needs to be repaired. I would have a glove bent to cover about 2 foot of frame. I would remove the rivets and replace them with flange bolts. I have been altering frames for 50 years and this is how we do it. If you are just going to casually use it, you can v out the crack, weld it, and weld an angle iron inside of the frame to support the weld.

that's what my plan is. I have a long piece of 3/8 channel that I can fit over it.and I'm gonna bolt it all down. the last picture I put of the truck is basically what its going back as. it has a rolling tail board and gin pole. which I'm going to be using the truck frequently to work out of.

Cool truck!

Since the portion of frame appears to be a simple c-channel shape at the end of the frame I'd be inclined to replace that section of the frame by having a new piece formed from steel sheet.

This eliminates the old fatigued and rust pitted steel and replaces it with new steel.

However you weld repair it you can buy a NDE dye penetrant kit at your local weld shop that will allow you to inspect the repairs to ensure the cracking is in fact repaired. This is a good idea as many times the cracks are not visible to the naked eye.

Google "nde dye check" for some videos.

More here: http://www.aws.org/itrends/01-04/penetrants.html

Grainger has a kit: http://www.grainger.com/product/SPOTCHECK-Penetrant-3WU63

Hope that helps.

John

the one good thing about the area I live in its full of welders and fabricator. and there are a lot of welding inspector shop around also. I have few buddy that said they would help out with the welding. and the only cost im out is the metal and few cases of beer. my buddy are usually easily bribed with a few cold one.

The rust pits don't look that bad to me, but also hard to tell by a picture.

The crack is on the very end of the frame right, behind the last spring hanger? if so just clean it up and weld it, only stress will be from the bed and you can probably improve on how that was mounted.

I like that bed, I'm sure common in your part of the country but not something we see here much at all.

Grigg

have any of you used osphos rust inhibator. what are your thought on using it after get everything fixed

I would say the rust is not bad enough on the frame or hanger to do anything about but to paint and protect it from getting any worse.

As to the crack in the frame I would take the route to simply grind the weld out and weld it back together without using a sleeve/angle etc... To prevent any further issues with the frame I would reinforce the bed you are putting on rather than reinforcing the truck frame. If the bed is built properly, it combined with the truck frame (even with a weld) will be plenty strong enough.

To properly add a frame reinforcement (i.e. not cobbled or slapped on) would be much more effort than to reinforce the bed you are putting on. If you put a sleeve on the inside your cross members will be to long to fit, and if you put it on the outside you will have to move the springs out on the axle to accommodate the extra thickness. When adding frame reinforcements you have to be careful not to make any abrupt changes in strength, so sleeves must extend beyond your stress points. Putting an angle only where the frame cracked might just cause a stress riser at the end and the frame will just crack again at the end of the angle you added, defeating it's purpose.

Tad

There looks to be plenty of meat behind the rust. Sandblast it while apart. Heavy zinc paint then enamel and bolt back together with 8.8 tensile bolts.
My two cents- if the truck wont be doing hard work. Check for more cracks as above, vee out the crack halfway through from each side, and get a really good welder to fix it. They will know how to minimise distortion in the frame.
You may opt to add a fish plate (long diamond shaped patch) over the repair for extra strength.
And keep an eye on it.