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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 72
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 72
So after being stranded once again by my Rochester B carbs, I think I, ready to try a set of Carter's. What's the best model for a 2-15/16 intake with a hand choke and the band top for an early clamp on filter?

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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I am finally, really happy with my dual Carter W-1's. It has taken a while to get them sorted out, but will worth it. Mine are 483's or 574's or one of each, not really sure since one was missing the tag. They are identical which is what really matters. Be prepared for high priced gasket kits and core charges, they don't come cheap. Mine are on a 250 inch engine. It idles and runs smoother then anything I have had on it, fuel mileage has not been checked, but it doesn't seem to be using much. The exhaust smells lean, and the garage doesn't stink after driving, so I am happy since the wife is happy about the smell. Check here for W-1information,
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/CarterChevroletW1.htm

I don't know the bolt pattern or bore size, never looked it up. I made my own intake, adapters, linkage, fuel lines, and air filter, so size didn't make any difference to me.

Mine will start with out chokes first time every time. There is no fast idle setup so I just hold the throttle long enough to get a little heat in the cylinders, less then a minute is all it takes. It hasn't been super cold yet, but I believe it will fire right up even then. Hooking up chokes wouldn't be hard, one would help, two would be ideal, but try it before messing with them, you may find like mine, that they are not needed. Intake heat is a must, mine will still frost the lower 1/3 of the carb and part of the intake in damp weather start ups even with exhaust heat under both carbs.

Joe

Last edited by Joe H; 09/15/2014 3:34 AM.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joe, something to consider- - - - -over 50 years of fixing carburetors has taught me that an engine that will start cold without choking is running too rich. Yours might run even better if you lean it out a little- - - -smaller main jets, not adjusting the idle screws. Does anyone in your area have a 4-gas exhaust analyzer and the knowledge to use it properly?
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jan 2000
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
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I have the Rochester toilet bowl on my 235 and had lots of flooding trouble in years past. The thing would flood and leave me stuck in the street. My fix was to add a fuel pressure reg. and set it at 2lbs been fine since.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
Joined: Apr 2014
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J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks guys, so what's a good model # for my application?

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U
Shop Shark
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What year is the 235?

Here's another posting of this list from Jon (carbking); it is a very good starting point if you go the Carter YF route.

Brad

Edit: I'm by no means saying any of these will work perfectly, and I'm definitely not speaking for carbking--- It is just a list of Carter YF models produced for the Chevrolet engine; I thought it might help.


Originally Posted by carbking
I did an abbreviated list of these once before. This is a complete list taken one by one from the Carter master prints, and includes experimental carbs with numbers assigned, but no production.

THERE ARE DIFFERENCES IN THESE CARBURETORS! THAT IS WHY THERE ARE DIFFERENT NUMBERS!

Some of you have already experienced some of these differences such as the "ported" vs "manifold" vacuum take-off for the distibutor.

Use the list as is, and I would guess few issues. However, changing from one application to another may lead to issues.

At any rate, here is the list:

Jon.

Carter YF carburetors produced for use on Chevrolet

756s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
787s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
788s – 235 engine aftermarket 1950~1952
789s – 235 engine aftermarket 1950~1952
890s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke (number assigned, no production)
891s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke (number assigned, no production)
964s – 216 engine aftermarket manual choke 1937~1952
965s – 216 engine aftermarket auto choke 1937~1952
966s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke 1950~1952
967s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke 1950~1952
2008s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
2046s – 206 engine aftermarket 1932~1936
2100s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke 1953~1956
2101s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke 1953~1956
2104s – 261 engine aftermarket (number assigned, no production)
3055s – aftermarket (number assigned, no production)
3211s – 235 engine aftermarket 1957~1962
3379s – 153 engine original equipment manual trans 1962~1966
3402s – 153 engine original equipment auto trans 1962~1966
3711s – 194 engine aftermarket 1962
3760s – 230 engine (number assigned, no production)
3770s – 230 engine (taxi) original equipment auto transmission 1964~1965
3771s – 230 engine (taxi) original equipment manual trans 1964~1965
3772s – 194 engine auto transmission (number assigned, no production) 1964
3773s – 194 engine manual trans (number assigned, no production) 1964
3821s – 194 engine (van) original equipment 1964
3946s – 194 engine aftermarket 1964~1965
3946s – 230 engine aftermarket 1964~1965
3975s – 230 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1965
3976s – 230 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1965
4043s – 194 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1966
4043s – 230 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1966
4044s – 194 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1966
4044s – 230 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1966
4048s – 230 engine (van) aftermarket experimental 1963~1966
4072s – 194 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4072s – 230 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4073s – 194 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4073s – 230 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 194 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 230 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 250 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4085s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4085s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4086s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4086s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4145s – 194 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1965~1966
4145s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1965~1966
4202s – 250 engine (taxi) original equipment auto trans 1966
4203s – 250 engine (taxi) original equipment manual trans 1966
4278s – (export to India)
4339s – 194 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4339s – 230 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4339s – 250 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4367s – 230 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4367s – 250 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 194 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 230 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 250 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4369s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4369s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4370s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4370s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 292 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4372s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4373s – 153 engine aftermarket manual trans 1963~1967
4374s – 153 engine aftermarket auto trans 1963~1967
4375s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1967
4375s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1967
4376s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans 1967
4376s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans 1967
4377s – 250 engine original equipment (taxi) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4378s – 250 engine original equipment (taxi) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4387s – 194 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4480s – 230 engine aftermarket (all Federal) 1963~1967
4480s – 250 engine aftermarket (all Federal) 1963~1967
4492s – 194 engine aftermarket 1962
6213s – number assigned no production


Last edited by ClaudeTheTruck; 09/14/2014 7:26 PM.

Wrench Fetcher, PhD
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 4,886
Jerry, I have checked mine with a hand held exhaust analyzer and its on the lean side already. I have the idle set in mid 14 to 1 ratio, and driving, I can tell its lean at part throttle. Full throttle is OK.

I suspect it starts so easy because of the weather and the truck is garage kept. One pump, and it fires up. I had to drill out the jets .001" to get it to run as good as it does now.

These a relative small carbs even for a 235, my 250 (+.030") might be pushing them. It would be fun to get it on a rolling dyno to check the emissions, I would bet with a little tuning, I can get it pretty darn clean burning.

Joe

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,715
C
Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
C Offline
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,715
You might find this article interesting:

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Dual1barrelcarbs.htm

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,084
A
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 1,084
There seems to be a trend for problems with these old carbs. That is, getting too much pressure and flooding. Are the new fuel pumps (cam activated I'm assuming) just more efficient or have a higher pressure output than the originals? Is everyone running regulators?

Jimmy...your opening post...how did you keep getting stranded by your Rochesters?


Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude

1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette

Joined: Nov 2002
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C
Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
C Offline
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,715
A couple of observations:

First, Joe, I would agree with Jerry about your carbs possibly being richer than need be. The frosting on the lower third of the carb and portions of the intake tend to substantiate this possibility. Frosting below 55 or so degrees might be normal, but frosting at higher temperatures, even with the relative humidity we experience in Missouri, is not normal.

One other thing to consider: the choke butterfly acts as a "straightening vane" to minimize air "eddy currents" entering the carburetor at lower RPM (and air velocities). Thus using the choke butterflies WILL improve the atomization of fuel at lower air velocities, thus allowing for a leaner mixture.

Allen - there are a number of reasons for flooding problems with all carbs, not just old ones. Some of these:

(1) the elimination of the "staking" operation by the companies producing the newer carburetor fuel valves in order to minimize costs because many customers prefer cheaper to better.

(2) the volatility of modern fuel

(3) the "quality control" (or lack thereof) of new pumps made offshore (even if they happen to be in the box of a familiar company). I have seen new "name brand" fuel pumps from 12,000 miles away that produced as much as 18 psi. Try to hold that pressure with any carburetor! More efficient??? More like just plain cheap. Better to get a fuel pump kit from a quality antique vendor and rebuild your original pump!

(4) (did this one myself about 45 years ago ON THE WIFE'S CAR!) replaced a vented gas cap with a new non-vented locking gas cap before I knew about vents, because we had a rash of vandelism locally. During the summer, fuel would actually spill out of the carburetor on the driveway with the engine off and no one in the car. Made starting exceptionally difficult.

(5) oh, did I mention global warming wink wink wink

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
Back when I was running a high school auto shop, we would rig the 4-gas analyzer to run from an inverter, and do on-road testing with the analyzer in the back seat of a few different cars. It's pretty educational to see what the high speed and midrange sections of a carburetor do under load- - - -totally different numbers from "cruise" RPM with an unloaded engine in the shop. I confirmed a lot of that same type of information running race engines on a bellhousing dyno, but we were tuning for max power, not fuel economy on those engines.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!

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