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#1055297 09/11/2014 12:17 AM
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 52
H
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 52
On my newly acquired 61 apache the previous owner installed a new master cylinder but never bled the brakes. I bled all the brakes and adjusted all the brakes till they started to grab a little. (I already dismantled the brakes and freed up the rusted adjusters and lubed the backing plates.)When I apply the brakes the right rear tire skids. When I spin the wheels when they are off the ground they all seem to have equal grab. Any suggestions?

Joined: Feb 2004
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Check for brake fluid or rear end grease on the brake shoes of the wheel that locks up. Grease-soaked brakes from a leaky axle seal are notorious for locking up a wheel, particularly on gravel of slippery pavement. There is no way to remove grease from brake linings- - - -replace 'em!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Aug 2014
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 52
Jerry, thank you for the suggestions. The rear shoes are clean. The right front had a leaky wheel cylinder and brake fluid soaked shoes. I rebuilt the wheel cylinder and repaced the front shoes. The right rear wheel is locking up on asphalt pavement. Do you think maybe only one of the pistons in the right rear wheel cylinder maybe working and pushing out one shoe exstensively?

Joined: Feb 2004
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Posts: 29,777
One working brake shoe would probably not have enough stopping force to lock up a wheel. If there is any doubt at all about the proper operation of the brake, either rebuild or replace the wheel cylinder(s) and brake shoes, plus springs and hardware. Trying to do a partial brake job is sort of like drawing to an inside straight in a high-stakes poker game. Good brake work is pretty cheap life insurance.

I just spent a little over $250.00 on parts alone, rebuilding the front brakes on a 92 Dodge Dakota, and I don't regret it at all. I won't be hiring a lawyer to defend me from a multi-million dollar lawsuit if a kid runs in front of me while chasing a ball.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 52
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 52
Jerry, good advice. I took the right rear drum off and found that the wheel cylinder is pushing out both pistons. I sanded the shoes and the drum and re-bled the rear brakes. I am still not 100% happy with the stopping power but it does not appear to be locking up anymore. I will keep you posted.

Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2012
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Just a thought, If the other rear wheel has a stuck wheel cylinder then the effective brake pressure would force one wheel to do all the braking. That one would lock up while the other one was still turning. And, while I am speculating...if the new MC is a dual MC and it is plumbed 1 and 3 you will get uneven braking. I would pull the other side apart and have a look. Dual MC has two circuits. Front, and Back. Follow the brake lines and it will be clear.Just like Hotrod said, brakes are your life.


Steve H
Joined: Aug 2014
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Wrench Fetcher
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The master cylinder has only one chamber but it feeds both the brakes and the slave clutch valve. I will take a look at the left rear tomorrow. Thanks


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