First post and I am jumping right in. I have a 52 3100 with a 1955 235. I will post up another tread shortly properly introducing myself and my ride.
My scenario is this. Just recently got the truck on the road after 15 years of tinkering. Have a 1955 inline 235 that was fully rebuilt. Cam is still stock grind. Installed fenton split headers, dual Edebrock intake, dual 32 DFT carbs from Tom Langton, Pertronix ignition. The truck runs, it idles smooth in my opinion and runs only fair when driving around. It seems like something is lacking after hearing so may praise and talk about how good these 6's can be.
I have fully and properly set up the engine to my knowledge prior to getting it on the road about 2 weeks ago.
- Found TDC on #1 (yes I mm sure its not 180 out) Confirmed rotor position and valve positions. - Set the octane selector to 0 - Started engine and set timing to stock setting using the ball bearing in flywheel. - Got to running temps. - Used vac gauge on intake manifold and found the needle jumping around so I rechecked my valves and found that some were set wrong. Corrected valve rocker gaps and vac needle was steady like a rock. - Adjusted timing via the distributor to get best vac reading on gauge with the vac advance unhooked and blocked off at carb. 19 was the best it would do. It took a bit of timing advance to get the vac reading it to that number. Backed off the timing just slightly to get 18 vac reading after by using the octane selector so I can make easy adjustments later. -Played ever so slightly with the idle mixture screws on the carbs but they were set perfect and the adjustments in either direction only made it run rougher. - Set the RPM to 500 ish
Been driving it now for 450 miles and i have filled the tank 3 times. This cant be right. Accelerating moderately or aggressively it just slowly climbs, gets a bit more torque around the 2000rpm area and keeps moderately climbing after that. If I carefully let off the pedal as I am accelerating it actually for a brief a second accelerates with power. As if the second it leans out by me not applying and acceleration it stars to accelerate correctly. The smell of gas is so strong after accelerating almost every time I try to get up and go. Every time i also let off the gas and decelerate with it in gear the exhaust sputters and i get slight backfiring and pops.
Well I tested out the truck today with one carb at a time. All I did was disconnect the linkage arm but left it connected to the fuel line. The first try with carb "A" felt the same. Acceleration was slow and there was still a slight popping / backfire sound when letting off the throttle and letting it decelerate in gear. Truck still ran and never starved its self on the single carb like i thought it would.
Switched to carb "B" and the truck ran even smoother than what I thought was set up correctly before. You can't feel the engine running now but you can just hear it it's that smooth. It has sooooo much torque now compared to running both carbs together or just carb "A". When accelerating and getting to the point with the pedal travel that actually opens the secondaries you can feel it take off even more it and it starts to pull even harder!. The way it performs now is more what I was expecting form this inline in the first place.
The strange thing is with just one carb attached and working it should be too undersized in cfm to run the engine by itself but it runs it like it was meant to be. Something still bothers me about both of these carbs even though one works better than the other. It still seems like jetting is off or possibly its something else.
I have yet to call Tom and ask him what he thinks.
Nothing in the filter. Im not saying the carbs are necessarily wrong in general, but it seems they are in need of a possible jet change. Cant be right using all that fuel for 450 miles, backfiring when decelerating, having to change the oil 2 times in 450 miles due to gas contamination. I read the carbs are around 130 cfm. 2 of them would get me to where i kinda need to be with the 235.
Granted I was told by tom no adjustments are required but it just seems way too rich. Who is to say now i did not cause damage due to piston and cylinder wash on my new rebuilt engine due to this.
Before you take the carb apart, talk with Tom Langdon. If the carbs are relatively new and Langdon will honor/provide a warranty, he will not like hearing you opened up a carb.
You are right about those carbs being nicely matched with a 235.
Mine were very economical on a 261: 18 MPG when I drove smoothly and 12 MPG when I was speeding. The carbs were too small for my 261, so I switched to something else.
OK as of last night im going to start again and look at everything i can to see why its acting like it is and using so much fuel. Met up with a nice gent yesterday (CurtB) and he has a 55 235 with dual intake and dual exhaust with other nice mods. He has rod original carbs and a 261 cam. Thing goes like a bat out of hell compared to mine and he is even running larger tires and a lower geared rear.
I have been running it with both carbs on for the last few days and only one actually connected via linkage.
Started with a compression test. I do not have a leak down tester but i will start here.
Checked all the plugs. Will check gaps again. Im using a NGK BR6S. If anyone can comment or confirm im still good with those that would be awesome. Thats the number i got when not being able to find the AC delco ones.
Later today i will recheck the the timing. Also recheck im not 180 out but the engine would never run on the road the way it was if it was out. Will also get a new mechanical fuel pump to ensure its not the culprit and leaking into the block. I will reset my float levels a bit lower and then try driving it on both carbs again.
you should check the carb that is causing the problem, before you check any/every thing else out. Like I said I had a similar issue, there was a tiny, little piece of something that looked like part of a leaf stuck in one of the jets. You could talk to Tom about warranty and such, but I never even gave it a second thought. Sounds like you have already had it apart anyway. Sure wish he hadn't staked all threaded items though, wasn't quite sure I was going to be able to put it back together. You wouldn't be driving it all with the timing 180 out, as it won't even think about starting.
Hmmmmmm - - - - -Let me get this straight- - - - -you have an engine that runs well on one carburetor, which is what millions of stovebolts were designed to do, and did very well for decades. You're having problems making it run with twice as many carburetors as it was designed to have!
Homer Simpson would say "D'OH!"
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
These carbs should be using a progressive linkage; one opens first, and the second comes in later. The engine should run well on the first carb alone if you disconnect the progressive link to the second carb. Start with the operation of the main carb, then visually check your linkage set-up and its effect on the throttle plates, then move on to both carbs. The second carb should maybe start to open at 1/2 throttle on the first carb, and both should be fully open at the same time....you should have some instructions on the set-up.
Check all linkages and cables, while engine is on and make sure both carbs are opening up and actually squirting fuel. Check the plugs for signs of lean or rich. I wouldn't bother with a leak down/compression test. Most likely some gunk in one of the carbs. Best of luck to you. I've been down the dual carb issue road before. Twice the headache but looks great and performs bitchin when dialed in.
I can explain it to you, I can't understand it for you.
However, early on I had issues with leakage from gaskets between carb and adapters. Toms gaskets are terrible if you ask me. It was minor, but the bottom of the bolt heads were always slightly damp with fuel. After replacing w/new ones, its better, but I plan on making my own soon. Other than that, they are great. Getting to the point here...Brokenhead and Hollow seem to be hitting the mark here possibly. When I was searching months ago about my issue, I found your post on the HAMB about the concern I seemed to have which is here...
You have a great youtube vid on that post of the fuel swirling around in the carb which is bad. Further along the pic you show has large debris inside. Did you ever call Tom about that? He would have cleaned it all out and I think only charged the shipping. These carbs are known to clog easily. I run a very large metal fuel filter under truck, and use the glass delco on top more for retro or show. I took both mine apart, cleaned jets as per Toms advice on maybe my lines were dirty. Now it seems I took the utmost care when setting up my lines. I think possibly when these carbs are modified and those small 2 holes are drilled in the top, some debris may get inside. Also Tom claims they are all bench tested. Could be some fuel or cleaning liquid, whatever, maybe gums up in there when carbs are put back ready to sell. Only speculation here, no accusing. My point is, since it runs so well on one, there must be some kind of issue there with that other carb. Why not jusy buy a third one? They are inexpensive and youd have extra parts for yours?
Keep working at it, You'll get it, and when you do, you will be pleased overall with the response. With my old 1bbl, it would cough on acceleration. With these, response is instant, no cough and even in neutral when revving, response is terrific!
There is no need for a progressive linkage with the Carter-Weber progressive 2-barrel carburetors. I think that is a 32DFT that was the carb mentioned in the original post. These were used an 1.6 liter Ford cars.
Also, one of these carbs would work, but one of these carbs would be too small for a 235 engine. Two of these carbs are nicely matched to a 235, and the progessive two-barrel design results in very smooth acceleration and efficient operation.
You most likely have one dirty carburetor (or, one defective carburetor).
I set mine up by using one at a time and then placing them together on an Edelbrock dual intake. Keep going, better fuel mileage and bling! See my set-up below.
Cosmo
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
These carbs should be using a progressive linkage; one opens first, and the second comes in later. The engine should run well on the first carb alone if you disconnect the progressive link to the second carb. Start with the operation of the main carb, then visually check your linkage set-up and its effect on the throttle plates, then move on to both carbs. The second carb should maybe start to open at 1/2 throttle on the first carb, and both should be fully open at the same time....you should have some instructions on the set-up.
The linkage set from tom hooks both carbs together in unison. The point is to more evenly distribute the fuel between all the cylinders. Within each carb the secondaries are hook to an progressive linkage that will start to open when the primary is about 75% open.
I can try to hook the actual main linkage as being somewhat progressive by changing the mounting hole locations on one of the carbs arms. However it will not be true progressive but rather just opening at a different rate.
Last year when i had that leaking issue the FIFTEE3 mentioned i called tom and he told me to take apart my carb and clean it myself, so i did. It solved the leaking issue. It was debris from the two holes he punches in the tops to allow for equalization of the bowl. The carb that is currently running the truck has only been taken apart once for me to check for debris after cleaning out the other one last year.
So far i have dismantled the questionable semi working carb fully and checked all jets and gaskets and other items. All ports seem to be free of contamination. It is possible the carb is just garbage to begin with.
I am thinking about just buying 2 more from tom but this time around asking him to not punch the holes in the tops. I want to properly use one of the plugged holes and vent it to a charcoal canister so i can knock down that after running fuel smell a bit.
FIFTEE3 have you changed the getting at all? You running a stock cam?
However, early on I had issues with leakage from gaskets between carb and adapters. Toms gaskets are terrible if you ask me. It was minor, but the bottom of the bolt heads were always slightly damp with fuel. After replacing w/new ones, its better, but I plan on making my own soon. Other than that, they are great. Getting to the point here...Brokenhead and Hollow seem to be hitting the mark here possibly. When I was searching months ago about my issue, I found your post on the HAMB about the concern I seemed to have which is here...
You have a great youtube vid on that post of the fuel swirling around in the carb which is bad. Further along the pic you show has large debris inside. Did you ever call Tom about that? He would have cleaned it all out and I think only charged the shipping. These carbs are known to clog easily. I run a very large metal fuel filter under truck, and use the glass delco on top more for retro or show. I took both mine apart, cleaned jets as per Toms advice on maybe my lines were dirty. Now it seems I took the utmost care when setting up my lines. I think possibly when these carbs are modified and those small 2 holes are drilled in the top, some debris may get inside. Also Tom claims they are all bench tested. Could be some fuel or cleaning liquid, whatever, maybe gums up in there when carbs are put back ready to sell. Only speculation here, no accusing. My point is, since it runs so well on one, there must be some kind of issue there with that other carb. Why not jusy buy a third one? They are inexpensive and youd have extra parts for yours?
Keep working at it, You'll get it, and when you do, you will be pleased overall with the response. With my old 1bbl, it would cough on acceleration. With these, response is instant, no cough and even in neutral when revving, response is terrific!
Best of luck getting them setup! Phil...
I cant see any vac advance hooked to your carbs. What you using then? Also what fuel pump are you using?
Quit messing around with so many different ideas and settings.
Spark plugs will not make it run funny, they will cause a miss. As long as they fire and don't miss, leave them. Heat range is the only difference, cold or hot, if you are running rich, go hot to keep the tips cleaner.
Timing will not make it run funny on one carb but not the other so leave it alone. If it starts and idles, its fine.
Distributor 180 out, very doubtful, easy enough to check if you want. Pull number 1 plug, crank till you feel compression at the plug hole, look at rotor to see that its pointing at or close to #1 plug.
Fuel pumps will normally only effect high speed or acceleration driving. It would have to be pretty bad not to supply enough fuel to idle. When they go bad, the engines go lean or fill the crankcase with fuel, sometimes both. From what I have seen, over rich carbs turn the oil black and fuel smelling. Bad fuel pumps thin the oil but not change it's color much, no carbon deposits washing past the rings.
The reason it runs on one is due to the fact the other carb is still feeding fuel through the idle circuits and possibly flooding over. Pull it clear off and block the intake, and your other carb will not feel so good.
Whats this leave you with? one bad carb. Just pull it apart and give it a good cleaning, set the float after checking it for fuel soak, and give it a try. If Tom is a decent seller, which I believe he is, he won't mind if it saves you and him shipping cost. You also have this thread to prove you tried everything before going into the carb.
Try this tip from another thread here on the board. Loosen the hold down nuts on the good working carb and raise it enough to slip a piece of aluminum can under to block the air flow to the manifold then tighten it back down. Now the truck should only be running on the front carb ( dirty one ). Speed up the idle to 1000 or 1500 and with one quick move slap your hand over the inlet to choke the engine down and force lots of fuel down the engine. Don't let it die, clear it out with more rpm and do it again. This just may be enough to force out any crude in the jets. My tri-carb set up would routinely stumble and load up if I drove it easy all the time. About once a month, I would have to run it full rpm to keep them cleared out. I never could figure out why, I just new that when it started to shake at idle, it was time to hit the on ramp for a full throttle blast. Yours sounds just like mine did.
Just got off the phone with tom. He is trying to help me out the best he can. After talking for about 30 min i brought up the fact that the tops of the carbs were punch with a hole for the bowl to vent, however the gaskets have no hole in them what so ever and are sealed all over so its not truly vented bowl. Tom said the gaskets must have a hole installed in them by something small like a paperclip or something similar. He thinks that step was missed when he punched the holes.
He said that without the gasket holes the carb will build pressure in the bowl due to temps and when i accelerate its actually pushing fuel out under pressure at a much larger rate. Also said that's probably why my oil is so contaminated is because when it sits after being run the pressure builds up in the bowl and it actually drains into the venturi and fills the intake.
So today my task is to punch 2 holes in the gasket to match the holes in the carb top and give it another try.
FIFTEE3 have you changed the getting at all? You running a stock cam?
Stock cam. Jets are as shipped from Tom.
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I cant see any vac advance hooked to your carbs. What you using then? Also what fuel pump are you using?
My distributor is HEI mechanical and vac. Performs mush better without vac advance. Fuel pump is standard Chevy pump. Pumps about 4psi. Really don't want more than 3-4 for these carbs.
Im having such bad luck with this carb setup I'm ready to sell the truck for a dollar.
So I removed the carb tops to punch the holes in the gasket because the holes were already done in the top cab half already. Inspection it closely i noticed the gasket holes are probably unnecessary. The gasket is actually open around the float pivot pine any ways to allow for the pressure to be the same on both sides of the gasket. I also noticed there is also a stock pin hole vent port that goes from the top cap into the top of the venturi. Not sure why tom says the holes are mandatory possibly the stock one is just too small?
So i went out with the truck for a test drive with both cabs reconnected. Drove like it did before. All groggy, smelling like gas again, no acceleration. All of a sudden she just went all boggy. Like no fuel was being pumped in or delivered. then all of a sudden it working again and then not working. Opened the hood to see that one of the accelerator pump arms is actually stuck in the open position.
Could not push it back in but had to take the cover off and reinstall it on the side of the road. Truck fired fine after that and i managed to turn the truck around and start driving back home. Then like sure as [censored] when i started to press the pedal the truck would just die 100% and stall.
Opened the hood. pump arm was ok...................disconnected the carbs so they were independent of each other to see if one was causing an issue and guess what! the other carb that was running the truck by fine by itself (carb "B") about a week ago would kill the engine every time you you try to open the throttle slightest bit. If you just push on the carb throttle 1/16" the motor would die. Re attached the other carb that was not working correct as diagnosed last week (carb A) and managed to just roll her home in 1st gear.
Yesterday i gave up and ordered 2 more carbs from tom. I have no idea what it can be or what i have done. I bought the carbs last year, i installed them via the 4 bolts on the bottom i hooked up a fuel line after flushing it and installing a filter and im having this issue. Thinking a V8 is in order as much as im not wanting to go that route.
What is the gap on the spark plugs? Does Pertronix require a hotter plug or different gap?
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
Hang in there Scott. Lot's of good support here to get you through, wish I could help. Assuming your going to send the old carbs back to Tom, would be good if you find out what was causing the issues and let us know.
Phil...I have to smile every time I see that Heineken can.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
So after the ordeal with the carbs again i took them off to prep the intake for the new units currently on the road. I also went out and bought a new fuel pump to replace the other new pump unit and installed it to yet eliminate another possible factor contributing to its poor performance.
I also purchased a HEI distributor unit, plugs, and wires from tom with the carbs. Safe to say after the HEI install we can factor out any major ignition issues. I have replaced lots of components on this engine in the last month to try to figure this thing out. Spare parts will soon be for sale lol.
We used to call that approach being a "wheelbarrow mechanic". Roll a wheelbarrow full of new parts up to the job and start swapping parts until the performance improves or the problem goes away. Leave all the new parts in place and write up a huge bill. "Well, that part was bad anyway even if it didn't solve the problem!" Mechanics and/or shops that tried that tactic usually didn't stay in business long, as it was pretty common to create more new problems than they fixed. Work on one thing at a time until you're sure it's right, then move on to something else if necessary. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
One really nice thing about these older engines is that, if they are left relatively stock, they are very easy to diagnose for difficulties.
Changing multiple items (aftermarket carbs, aftermarket manifolds, aftermarket ignition, etc.) opens up several degrees of uncertainty.
I realize you probably have done much of the following, but still a good idea to do in order rather than just throwing additional parts (read money) at the issue.
(1) compression test - absolutely nothing you do to the ignition or carburetion on an engine with low compression is going to help. Eliminate this unknown first!
(2) ignition TEST!!! If the ignition is STOCK, very easy to test the entire ignition system by hooking it up to a good diagnostic oscilloscope. ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO GUESS! THE 'SCOPE WILL TELL YOU IF ANYTHING IS WRONG AND WHAT IT MIGHT BE! You have/had a pertronix (note the small "p"). The very first question we ALWAYS ask if a new customer calls with a "carburetor" issue is: "Have you installed a pertronix?". If the answer is yes, we highly suggest putting the ignition BACK TO STOCK at least for testing. THREE OUT OF FIVE CALL BACK THAT THIS FIXED THE PROBLEM! We have found that upgrading to an alternator (more stable voltage) seems to help with the pertronix problems.
(3) Idle vacuum test. Once the ignition system is found to function normally in all facets, checking for idle vacuum (if the engine runs) can be a clue to issues.
(4) Fuel delivery system test. Doesn't sound like this is your issue, but I learned to do tests in order, and that way you can eliminate issues as you go.
(5) Carburetor. I won't say anything bad about the CW carbs (I won't say anything good about them either!). But for testing purposes, should you still have an original manifold and original carb; installing for a test will tell you if the carbs you are currently using are faulty, or if it might be something else.
An engine not functioning normally can be a very frustrating experience (IF YOU LET IT). But use a systematic approach to the problem with TESTING instead of replacing parts, and you WILL find the answer.
And one other comment about installing "new" parts: JUST BECAUSE A PART IS NEW DOES NOT MEAN IT IS NOT FAULTY!!!!! This is especially true of todays offshore parts, even if they are in a recognizable box! Run the tests!
Jon.
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! The Carburetor Shop
Compression test was done a few days ago. average 143ish for all cylinders.
I have nothing left for stock manifolds or carbs or i would have tried to reinstall old bits.
Truck is not working correct so taking it in to get a reading on a oscilloscope cant be done at this moment.
I still have the old points somewhere and i can reinstall them but need to rewire a resistor into the line. System is already at 12 volt.
when the engine was running fine a few weeks ago the vac was about 19ish and needle was holding steady. granted that was at the highest advance setting but i then backed it off to 18ish to not allow it to advance too much under engine load.
Tested the fuel flow by disconnecting the lines from carbs and cranking engine. Lots of flow into catch bottles at line ends.Also the pressure gauge remains at 6psi when the lines are connected to carbs.
HI, wolffclub, You said the engine was rebuilt, did you stuff rags into the exhaust and intake ports, if so did you remove ALL THE RAGS. One way to check is to get the truck idling and feel the exhaust pulses at the tail pipes. Also check the temperatures of the pulses, they should be the same, if not you have a blockage in the exhaust or intake. PS, My dollar is one the way. Have Fun, Brian
Keep the 216's running. 1949 1/2 ton model #1314 (US 3104) Brian
first I would get rid of the pertronix, and put the points back in. I don't think there is rags anywhere, he said it has been driven 450 miles. You just need to fix the carburetors you have, it sure looks like there is some kind of contamination or something. I found the problem with mine by taking out the main jets, and yes they were staked in and I nearly ruined the threads getting them out, but it was just a little bitty piece of something. There is no reason I can see to buy new carburetors, why would two different new ones be any better than the two new ones you already have. You haven't said whether or not you have fully disassembled the carbs and checked all the little passages and all that. There isn't much chance the ignition system is causing flooding. I don't know about anyone else, but 6 PSI sure seems like a lot for fuel pressure, mine runs at about just over nothing, it just wiggles the needle on a 60 PSI gauge (yeah I know, but that is what I had.) Maybe you are just pushing the fuel past the needle valve.
For testing and short driving, just wire the distributer up to 12 volts. The resistor wire is for long term points wear, you are not going to wear them out for the short term, you might even get a stronger spark.
Take the pertronix out and store it where you can't find it.
Take the questionable carb apart and clean it, look at it, do something other then replace it. If you go the replacement route, just change the one questionable one, the other is running fine. No need to add two more variables to the mix.
Fuel pressure should be about 3 psi to 4 psi, anymore and you can blow past the seats of raise the fuel level slightly. If you can not lower the pressure, at least lower the floats. 1/16" wouldn't hurt.
Vacuum setting timing is OK till you get some drive time in. Higher timing will net better fuel mileage, up to a point. The truck needs to fire right up, and no detonation when pulling hills is high gear ( heavy load on engine ). Depending on the fuel in your area, you may need a different setting then the rest of us around the country. Don't be afraid to change it. I find it runs and drives best, where it sounds best when setting, I pay little attention to the vacuum gauge. You also need to adjust idle speed as you adjust timing to keep it in the range you like. Same holds true of the fuel mixture screws.
As mentioned before the truck is a 52 but has a 55 block in it. It was a 3/4t unit from Canada called the 1424series. Im wondering if it it possible the 52 bell and flywheel might be different from what the 55 actually needs. I believe the 52 3/4t was a 235. The current flywheel has a ball bearing with a stamp close to it marked (5) and if i keep advancing it lots i can see a triangle outline.
My vin plate on the door jam has the number XC591264 but im having no luck finding any info online with the number to see what the truck originally had in it.
When taking the carbs apart to check for blockage the threads for the jets got damaged. I can possibly chase them and try to reinstall the jets. New carbs will be here anyways in a few days.
I think you found at least ONE of your problems. TOO MUCH fuel pressure.
I have a fairly new fuel pump and when I installed my two carbs from Langdon's and fired up the engine, I had fuel spewing out the vent tube on the front carb. Get that fuel pressure down to 3-4PSI and see what happens.
So i take it you just installed a pressure reg then. I was always running 6-7 psi on the gauge. Think that could be the issue with the truck crappy performance? Fuel just being forced into the bowls when the floats drop under acceleration?
Too much fuel pressure can cause the floats to be over come while idling aswell! Not just under acceleration. I read about those carbs while looking for something else that they like 3-4 PSI of pressure and over that can start to flood them. Have you tried running them with the air cleaners off? I could visible see the fuel overflowing on mine.
