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#1054288 09/05/2014 10:22 PM
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Wrench Fetcher
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Anyone have any helpful hints about Evercoat Slick Sand primer?

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Wrench Fetcher
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Are you telling me that no body on the site has used Evercoat Slick Sand?.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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couldn't be tellin you that without knowing every body on the site wink
I haven't used it, but high build sanding primers are useful, just don't expect it to cover previous poor work or make the tedious task of sanding "slick"

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
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Thank you for replying to my question. There is no previous body work, only what I do and I have been doing it as a hobby (on my own stuff)for many,many years,but I have never used this stuff and would like to try it.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Evercoat is a reputable brand, give it a go and let us know how you like it, sounds like a sanding primer that's "easier" to sand then their previous and maybe higher build [high solids]

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 785
M
'Bolter
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Posts: 785
Slick sand is not a high build primer, it is a sprayable body filler. Yes, porous like body filler. I use a couple coats of Epoxy primer on the bare metal, let flash and spray slick sand, let cure and then sand DRY. Spray the SS again (as needed) and sand again DRY. Once "straight", cover in epoxy as your sealer, and wet sand that. (when using sandable epoxies, H/K or SPI, etc.)

Slick sand requires an appropriate gun for spraying, mine has a 2.5 tip. If you don't have the correct spray gun/tip, you are defeating the purpose.

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Wrench Fetcher
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Thanks MPandC for shareing your proceedure. The largest tip I have is a 2.0 and I hope it works out.

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'Bolter
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I didn't know there was a sand-able epoxy primer.sounds like it would be easer to use after media blasting and before body work.




These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel
1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler

fubar49 #1054784 09/08/2014 11:46 AM
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'Bolter
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House of Kolor's KP2CF, and SPI's epoxy are both a sandable epoxy (may be other's that I'm not aware of) Where they aren't quite as easy in sanding as a high build, you are able to sand with no loading. I think the only time I've seen loading of the paper was when the EP needed to cure another day. For all of the motorcycle paint jobs I've done, I didn't use any slick sand or high build. All of the build was done with H/K KP2cf, all wet sanded with good results.


http://s5.photobucket.com/user/rmccartney/library/Ultima%20Black%20Cloud?sort=3&page=1




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'Bolter
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Robert I've followed your work and tutorials on patch panels and learned a lot.thank you.
I was going to use PPG put there prices are crazy high. To high for someone like me that's going to make lots of mistakes. I'm thinking I'll be using a sand able epoxy primer.

Bill
37 panel in the works

Last edited by goneagain; 09/09/2014 2:36 AM.



These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel
1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 785
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by goneagain
Robert I've followed your work and tutorials on patch panels and learned a lot.thank you.
I was going to use PPG put there prices are crazy high. To high for someone like me that's going to make lots of mistakes. I'm thinking I'll be using a sand able epoxy primer.

Bill


Bill, I've not used PPG's DPLF to have first hand experience, but from what I've read in online comments, it is not a sandable epoxy, which is why the K36 is sprayed over the epoxy after it has flashed; the K36 is sandable. On the plus side, for those who use rust conversion products, the DPLF is apparently compatible, where the H/K and SPI are not. There is a process to clean and neutralize a conversion coating where one could use these primers, but all it takes is a bit of residue in a deep pit to create a delamination/lift in your nice fresh paint job. And of course, both H/K and SPI state their product is not compatible with the rust convertors, so it's a roll of the dice as to whether you get all the residue cleaned.

I just purchased some SPI, which was $177 for a two gallon kit (delivered). H/K runs about 250 for a two gallon kit, or about 320 if you'd like it in quart cans, plus shipping. I don't know what your PPG is running, but that will give you a comparison. I don't use the conversion coatings, so the H/K and SPI work for my applications. This is my rust converter:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/rmccartney/Metalworking/Picture026-2.jpg wink


Please don't read any of this as me saying not to use PPG. A person has to look at all the processes you plan on using, and make sure ALL the products are compatible, from start to finish. And a lot has to be said for availability. If your local paint jobber carries PPG and is convenient (open) on the weekend, it weighs a lot on your decision of which product to use. It's nice to have a fall back when you run out of something while spraying on a Saturday morning..


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'Bolter
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PPG. dPLF epoxy primer with catalist $340.00 per gallon here! Then it must be shot with sand able primer to boot.




These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel
1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler


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