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#1053571 09/02/2014 6:25 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 565
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 565
I have a Zenith carb on a 57 270. Number on carb is 11475B. It has an adjustable main jet. I have attempted to turn this but couldn't. I didn't try to force it.
I am having fuel in the oil issues, and have changed the fuel pump twice with no change. The truck runs well, but I suspect the carburetor may be the issue.
Looking down the throat while running, I see no excessive fuel, actually don't see any.
Can someone shed some light on this adjustable main set up, with proper adjustment techniques for this carb. I have not done anything to it, and haven't located a rebuild kit if that is what it needs.
I hesitate to attempt a rebuild on my own with all the small parts, springs, balls etc. and no experience in this.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff


"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."

1957 GMC 150
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Jeff,

Post a photo of the adjustable jet and the carb body. That will assure that people are providing advice about the correct carb/part.

If you want the name of a good re-builder: Larry Isgro

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 565
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 565
No way to post photos at this time.
The adjustable main looks like this.
I appreciate the link for the rebuilder.


"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."

1957 GMC 150
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,763
C
Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
C Offline
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,763
It requires two open end wrenches.

Use one wrench to hold the largest hex surface (this is what holds the assembly in the carburetor). Use a smaller wrench to loosen the smaller hex surface (this is the adjuster "gland" nut, also known as a lock nut). Once the gland nut has been loosened maybe three quarters of a turn, the "T" handle adjuster should turn.

The gland nut tightens a fibre seal against the adjuster, both preventing the adjuster from turning, and also sealing against a fuel leak.

Once the adjuster has been turned to the required setting, retighten the gland nut.

An approximate beginning adjustment is to turn the adjuster in (clockwise) until LIGHTLY seated; then back the adjuster out(counter-clockwise) two and one half full turns.

Drive the vehicle at highway speed, with a friend following in another vehicle.

If your vehicle surges, the mixture is lean. Back the adjuster out further (counter-clockwise) 1/8 turn at a time. The adjuster is wide open at five full turns.

If your friend notices black smoke, the mixture is rich. To lean, adjust in the opposite direction.

TWO CAVIATS:

(1) ALWAYS use two wrenches to loosen/tighten the gland nut.
(2) NEVER use a wrench or pliers on the "T" adjuster. If it will not turn with your fingers, the gland is too tight. FAILURE TO OBSERVE THIS SENTENCE WILL COST YOU $$$$$$$

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 565
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 565
Thanks for the instruction. I will be very careful.
I'll see where its set as soon as I get a chance.
I appreciate the response.

Jeff


"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."

1957 GMC 150

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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