The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Kingpins and tire wear

I'm pretty sure I need new kingpins,but I'm trying to make sure before I purchase.I put fairly new tires on the front of my 51 3100 800 miles ago.The truck wanders all over the place. I greased up the front end and things tightened up but it still wanders,especially on uneven roadways and curves.I also noticed that the front tires squeal on sharp curves.The front tires are wearing very quickly. The wear is heavy to the inside of both tires.No scalloping and it's about the same to both tires. Is this a clear indication of kingpin looseness?Is there a test besides wiggling the tire?I have noone to look while I wiggle or vise-versa.---Jack

I think you need to diagnos the whole front end. Jack it up, put it on jack stand and make sure it is stable and high enough to let the axle hang on the springs with the tires off. See if the axle moves back and forth. If it does you need to replace the spring shackles. With no tires on you can see any movement of the spindle to the axle and answer your kingpin question. Also a good time to grease the wheel bearings and make sure they are good and adjusted properly. I believe, but have not done this, you can tighten up the ball connection on your tie rod ends now as well. From your tire wear, it sounds like you need to set your toe in too. I think you can find the specs in an online manual. I have done using a tape measure, but it is best to have it done professionally once all the other stuff is fixed. While you are doing all this, you might as well adjust your steering gear box too. The shop manual gives some fairly clear instructions. I remember using a fishing scale to test for the proper pull during the process. If you do need king pins, they come in oversizes but usually require a trip to the machine shop for reeming and sizing. None of these task are overly difficult, but all of the components need to be up to standard to fix the front end. When they are all correct the truck will drive like new.

Mike

Sounds like the toe might be off if the tires are wearing on the insides, not enough toe in.
If you are running bias tires they have more of a tendency to wander and also pick up on all the anomalies on the road.
If you jack up the axle and grip the tire at the top and bottom it may show how worn the king pins are.....

John

King pins can be checked by yourself. Place jack under one wheel at the spring U bolt area. Lift until you can get one hand under the tire. Place the other at the top and try to move the top in and the bottom out. Try pushing the bottom in and the top out. Rock back and forth, movement? King pins are loose. No movement? Not king pins. Try the same thing right to left. Movement? Tie rod ends. No movement? Tie rod ends should be fine. Toe in can be measured with a tape measure. Roll truck onto the driveway or even a parking lot. Let it roll straight as it can. Stop. use a carpenters square, measure to the middle of the tread straight up with the square. It is easy, it is where the square touches the tire and is flat on the ground. Grease pencil works to mark the tire. Do the same at the rear and the front of both front tires. Pull a tape from mark to mark at the front and in the back. Should be 3/16 less at the front. I like to use the first rib in on each side just easier for me. That is about it. Now, that squeal when turning? That is from toe in wrong for some reason. It can also be from loose stuff letting the toe in change. When I had this happen on my truck I found that it was Toe out. That will wear the inside ribs off in a hurry. See the above post for a good check on the spring bushings. Enjoy!

I measured from edge of tread to edge of tread across the front of the truck.Then I crawled under to do the same behind the tire.1 1/4" less across the back. I guess it's toed out.Then I happened to look at my tie rod and it is seriously bent. It looks like someone was towing it and instead of grabbing the axle,they hooked the tie rod and bent it.So I jacked it up and got it solidly on stands and slid under. Holding onto the underside I pushed on the tie rod with my feet and managed to get it almost straight again.I wanted to remove it and straighten it right but the ends are rusted and the caps won't come out so I need to order some parts.When those slotted end caps are rusted up how do you get them out?---Jack

If you don't have them, you'll need a set of drag link sockets. Rather tan trying to straightening out the original tie rod, you might consider replacing it, along with a rebuild kit for the ends. I had a similar problem with mine, tried straightening the rod, it ended up bending again in the same spot. I replaced it with an aftermarket rod with a thicker diameter, cured the problem permanently.

Oh boy! Kroil, time, and a hand held impact driver will do it, most of the time. Sometimes...look at updating to more modern tie rod ends. There is a very good tech. tip on this site that can be helpful. Kroil is a product I used working for the Air Force. It smells bad, but won't evaporate like WD-40. It does seem to get into rusty places better as well. But, it ain't cheap. Like I said take your time, don't hurry, and if you can get those slotted disks out a rebuild kit is not expensive. Now why can't you buy the whole thing I don't know. You can get the "ball", the cups, the spring, and the slotted disks. The "housing" I have not seen for sale. Any one know of a supplier?

Those sockets in LONGBOX55's post look good to me. Might have to spend some money on a new toy.

Most likely, the reason the housing isn't available is because it's a non-wear item. I've ran into the same problem a few times when I needed a center link to replace one that was bent or otherwise damaged. On some vehicles, the center link has no wearable parts in it, so it isn't made by the aftermarket.

I never mind getting new toys. Drag link socket--New one on me.I've been using PBblaster.It works for me.---Jack

I just did all of mine on my truck and got the balls, slotted caps and cups from Jim Carters, I used a chisel to get in the slot and a crescent wrench to get leverage on the chisel, it would come out so far and stop so I would run it back in then shoot it with PB Blaster and run it back out and slowly made progress.

All done pic
http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Ski...one_zps267118b4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=20

Jim Carter Kit link http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME180TR&i=10272|||||