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Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching? 
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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 266 Custom Title | | Custom Title Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 266 | Truck is my '49 3/4 ton longbed. I bought all new bed parts for the truck, I'm just not 100% sure what the proper order of assembly is. I'm assuming that the bed sides, front panel, and rear most cross member are all bolted together first. The front cross sill is then attached to the front panel. Then the wood is installed. I'm just confused as to where the other 3 cross sills are placed under the bed. If memory serves me correctly, 1 or 2 of them just "float" under the bed and actually don't rest on the mounting blocks to the frame. Correct?
49 Chevy 3600
65 Chevy K10
48 International KB-1 Service Truck
55 Willys CJ5 - Chevy 331 powered
26 Model T Roadster Rat Rod
70 Tucker Sno-Cat 442-A
96 Dodge 3500 Cummins dually flatbed x-cab 4x4
06 Jeep Wrangler LJ rock crawler
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | not sure about the longbed, but there'll be at least one thinner 'floating' cross sill between the wheel wells .... you can find assembly instructions for most at the Mar-k site
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 266 Custom Title | | Custom Title Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 266 | I was able to find a picture and got it all figured out. Now, the wood for my bed was not drilled for the bed mounting bolts. Is there a template out there anywhere that shows where to drill the holes?
49 Chevy 3600
65 Chevy K10
48 International KB-1 Service Truck
55 Willys CJ5 - Chevy 331 powered
26 Model T Roadster Rat Rod
70 Tucker Sno-Cat 442-A
96 Dodge 3500 Cummins dually flatbed x-cab 4x4
06 Jeep Wrangler LJ rock crawler
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Feb 2002 Posts: 12,029 | once you get the sills in place drill from the bottom up, or mark for drilling anyway, safer than going by measurements
Bill | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,747 | A trick to help with the offset washer relief. Drill from the bottom as red58 suggested but stop when the tip of the drill just comes through. Get a brad point drill bit to help with this part. It has a point that is long enough to see when it comes through. Then place the washer over the little hole. Center the square hole on the pinhole and trace around the washer. Draw two lines to establish the center of the washer. Use that center and a forstner drill to relive the washer. That way the center for the washer relief can be maintained. Then finish the hole for the bolt. There are other ways to control the forstner bit but the center point on the bit is the easiest way I know.
Steve H
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