The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 58 Stepvan engine swap

I will PM you.

On to the transmission-found a good donor motor for my 261, its a 235 with the "unknown" (not listed) cast code of 3837161. Another thread said this is most likely a '55. It does have the four bolts for the valve cover so I'm inclined to think thats correct. It came out of a '52 3100, but owner said it was original stock??. I will check date code when it gets pulled. Anyway, a goldmine of good parts-I will list all the extras I have on the Swap Meet.

I saw a clever way to mount the remote oil filter mount onto the 261 block where the side motor mounts would be. Mine will be front mounted, so I would be able to use this layout. I wondered if anyone knows of someone who can fabricate this adaptor mount.

http://speedprint.com/deves50/img/deveshowto/oilfilterinstall/oilfilter4lg.jpg

I wanted my 261 to have the 12 volt setup, but my 235 donor motor has the 6 volt flywheel & floor starter. Cannot seem to find a 12 volt flywheel with the six bolt holes and three lineup pin holes. Are these difficult to find or maybe I'm looking in the wrong place? Does anyone know of where to find one? (nothing on swap meet) Not sure about the 168 tooth flywheel fitting in the 3100 bell housing either. This is making me TIIred! Thanks for any help.

You can use the 6 volt starter with a 12 volt system.

Yes, I read about the 6 volt starter & 12 volt system. I can find the 12 volt starter if I need to. That flywheel is hard to locate for some reason.

As Don stated you can run a 6 volt starter on 12 volts.
Depending on what clutch size you want the 1955-62 235/261 flywheel will fit. (There are a number of clutch size options).
The 1955-59 truck starter is 12 volts and foot start.

Chaz 58,

Please forgive me if this question has been asked/answered (or, if this question is irrelevant).

If you 1958 Step Van is on a Forward Control chassis, it would have come with an electric solenoid starter. Is that the kind of starter you intend to use? 6v and 12v solenoid starters are available from some vendors.

Yes, I plan to use a 12 volt solenoid starter & not the 6 volt floor starter.

As posted by Dave and others above, you can use any 235/261 12 volt (55-2nd to 62/63) flywheel and matching clutch assembly in your clutch housing.

Shipping would be a killer, but if worst comes to worst I can help you out.

I went to put on the harmonic balancer from the donor 235 & noticed my 261 crankshaft end did not have any threads! I freaked calmly and thought someone had broken off the bolt! I did some checking and discovered it was made without the bolt threads. I see both the end of the shaft and the balancer both have slots about an inch long going lenghthwise. I read some threads where some guys had just used malet and board to persuade the balancer on. We are looking for any tips on this procedure before we procede in the morning. Thank you for any advice.

Thanks Dave, but I found one. Chaz

I use a 2x4 and a large ball peen hammer. Don't strike it with a metal hammer direct. Also, study the balancer and how far it will go on so you have an idea of when to stop, and don't forget to put a little oil on the seal and the HB before you start.

Even after drilling and tapping my crank to put a dual pulley balancer on my engine, it still requires pressing it on. My HB isn't going anywhere! LOL

A woodruff key goes into that slot in the end of the crankshaft. The upper/flat side of the woodruff key goes in the slot in the harmonic balancer.

We adjusted the rockers and discovered that #1 intake was only opening about half the distance as the others. I hope its cupping on the lifter and not the cam. I was "told" it was a rebuilt engine, so I'm not positive of the problem. Anyone had this problem before? I welcome any imput on this subject.

We readjusted the rockers and no problem with the intake-nice. I painted her yesterday-Detroit Deisel Green. Almost ready to put her in!

Ok-Finally got her in. Having trouble finding a temperature sending unit, I found a Corvair unit of the same year & wondered if that would work-blade type. We also see a kind of plug on the front right of the engine, not sure if that is for an oil sender or what that might be for. It looks like an oil line. Thanks for any input.

Not sure an air cooled engine sender will work. This should be the correct sender.
Can you post a pic of the oil plug?

Thanks Dave-I found the plug-line is for the oil guage. Do you know where to find an updraft manifold for my 261? I bought one from a yard in MT or ID a while back, but can't seem to remember the guys name, same as the yards name. Can't believe I sold the one I had!

Some difficulty finding an updraft manifold for my step van. Can anyone recomend a yard (that ship) that might have one of these?

Found one!

chaz 58,in 77 i ran a 62 chev panel.fitted with 292 and olds rear end,323 gears,truck 4 speed.at 5,000lbs i could do 80-90 up any hill i found on freeway. a 283 dont have tourqe until its turning at least 3 grand. this means ya need at least a 5 speed to have needed tourqe at any speed.just my .02 worth gl with the option you choose

Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the accelerator/throttle linkage for a Grumman Kurb Side? A picture of any Chevy COE linkage setup would also be helpful. Thanks guys.

Chaz 58, do you still need a pic of this linkage? Mine is a '55, but I can send a photo if it will help.

That would be great. I saw a 49-50 linkage for sale on ebay, but not sure how it would work. I'm also having trouble with the radiator/cradle not clearing the fan in its original position. Could you also send of a picture of how your cradle is situated? This would be a load of help to us! Thanks, Chaz

Chaz, PM sent.
Radiator does not sit in the cradle, it's attached to the outer part of the housing. You will see it in the pics I will send to you.

Ran the engine for the first time last week-sounded good. Rebuilt the updraft carb, but still working on finding a suitable throttle linkage. Still looking for a deal on a radiator. Thanks for everyones input and help in my 58 Grumman Olson Kurb Side project w/'60 261 engine.

Good to here!

Hi Chaz 58,


I can post links to images, showing the Throttle linkage arrangement in my Chevrolet 1960 P-20, if you want.

The Linkage has a fair amount to it...a Big Bracket which Bolts to the front side of the Engine, for one thing.

Two front-left Head Bolts have integral Studs coming up, for this.

If you Weld, you could fabricate a Bracket to do the same as the factory 235 Bracket did.

Anyway, let me know?

I can snap some pics and put them up.

Do you have images up somewhere, of your Van?

One option you may want to consider is something from Lokar. They may have an application that could work, or something you could modify to make work. Unless you're going for original...

Thriftmaster Phi-I could use some pics if you have time. I saw a COE linkage from a n early 50s truck I thought I could use, but I wasn't sure if it would work for my application. I could post pics on Flickr-as I would like share some. I will post them this weekend. Thanks.

Here are some pics that I have posted on Flickr:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127365209@N03/with/14897951460/

See if this works -

Image 215 and 216 ( page 3 although images are not in strict numerical order ) show the large stamped steel bracket which supports the throttle linkage and shows some of the linkage rod and Levers also.

http://public.fotki.com/PhilBphil/1960-chevrolet-thri/

I will take some more images later to-day as well.

Throttle Linkage support Bracket has three Bolt Holes.

Two of these fit on to the two special-topped Head Bolts front left on the Engine...these Head Bolts have a threaded ( 3/8ths National Fine I think, )Stud which sticks up about an inch or so.

The third Bolt Hole, and not visible in the images, the Bracket's front has a Bolt hole which gets a Water Pump Bolt going through it. bracket occupies the same water Pump Hole as the generator support Arm ( which fits behind the bracket...so olne uses a longer Bolt there of course, securing all this and it's share of the Water Pump).

This one is difficult to access since it is behind the Fan Hub/Belt-Pulley.

Or it was difficult for me, since I was approaching it from behind, and my Fan is still in place of course.

Okeydoke...

Images are on page 4...Image numbers 410, 411, 412, 413, 414.

http://public.fotki.com/PhilBphil/1960-chevrolet-thri/page4.html

I forgot that it is a whole different Ball Game with the Floor back in!

Sorry I can not get better views, but, if you look carefully, you can probably construct a mental model of what the Throttle linkage has going on.

There is a Rod which comes out from the Gas Pedal...

This connects to a 4 inch long opr so Lever, which is welded to a long plain shank Bolt ( threaded on one end only, where it gets a washer and a Nut, other end has a Washer and Cotter Pin) which 'Bolt' is captive in the stamped Steel Bracket...and pivots there on it's long axis.

The 'Bolt' has a second same size Lever ( which is at a different angle somewhat than the first ) and that Lever has a pivot connection with a second Rod...and the second Rod then goes to the Carburetor...with a pivoting connection to the Throttle 'Arm' of the Carburetor.

So - a big heavy stamped Steel Bracket...which mounts top front left on the Engine, mounting on two of the Head Bolts front and side there, which two Head Bolts have an intergral Stud sticking up for this...and the Bracket also has one more mounting hole which gets the same Water Pump Bolt as the Generator stabilzing 'Arm'.

So -

The large stamped Steel Bracket holds a captive long Bolt which pivots or rotates on it's long axis...and the Bolt has two Levers welded to it.

One Lever is connected to a Rod which comes from the Gas Pedal, the other Lever is connected to a Rod which goes to the Carburetor.

Actually, the outside Lever ( on the rotating-pivoting Bolt ) fits on to the oustide end of that Bolt, over a two struight-sided aspect...Lever has a flat sided oval hole which fits on this, and the Nut and Washer then, go on that. Rather than the Lever being welded on.

Since your Radiator is removed right now, it would be pretty easy for you to fabricate a Bracket and the other parts out of common steel Stock pieces.

Thank you Phi for all the great info!

If my Radiator was out, these parts would be easy to see!


Anyway, I see no reason why one could not make up a kindred set-up from scratch, especially if one has access to a Tig Welder or has any Welder pals.

As for where to obtain the two Head Bolts which have the 1 inch long or so Threaded Stud sticking up out of their tops, hmmmm...I have no idea who may have those...since they would be in the same Boat as the rest of the COE/VAN Linkage set up, and thus quite seldom seen.

But if one were careful, and did not spoil the temper of the Bolts, I expect one could weld on an upside-down 5/16ths or 3/8ths Bolt to each of the two Head Bolts, ( with the smaller Bolt's head then taking all the tension-stress really, of when the Nut and Washers holding the Bracket on, get tightened up ) and something like that ought to do fine, if one were fabricating one's own Bracket.


The only other method which comes to mind to me, would be to use a Bowden Cable for the Throttle hook-up which would not require any Linkage then...and would only need to be restrained at it's ends basically...and lubed once in a while internally.