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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,168 Posts1,057,100 Members48,463 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | I started to inspect my brakes today and quickly realized they were a little different than any I'm familiar with..can someone offer a few pointers, starting with removing the drums. I may be able to handle it from there. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 | Front or back? The fronts have a screw that holds them to the hub. Use an impact wrench to get the screw out. Most are rusted and a PITA to remove. Front will come off after the adjuster is turned loose. The hub stays in place. Rear? Full floating axle type. Pull the axle and the drum can be removed with the bearing. Messy and requires a wrench to remove properly. Not too different from a 3/4 Chevy. Keep the drum and brake shoes for reference. There are different size drum and shoe combinations. Some have a bigger diameter, and some are wider. You need to measure so you know what parts you will need. Parts including the seals are easy to find at your FLAPS. Enjoy. 4x4 will have different fronts than 2 wheel drive.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | Looks like 2 slot screws in each drum, front and rear, a couple of which are all buggered up. I suppose its a good practice to replace with new whenever that happens. I'll pick up an air ratchet to do the job. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 | I have drilled them just to remove the head. And yes they are a pain to get out. Early days and how I learned about anti seize. Ah, experience.
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | Well I removed the screws from the drums -69' 3/4 GMC. Upon close inspection, I see no need to put them back. I'm thinking they were needed just for progression down the assembly line - input please. And my second question is about the front drum assembly; does the drum come off without removing it as a drum/hub assembly? Thanks to all for experienced input. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2012 Posts: 1,749 | Looks like the drum can be removed with the hub in place. It also looks like there were more than one drum and matching brake shoes. Measure to know for sure. Screws hold drum to hub. Wheel will do the same thing when installed. I have done both, don't know if there is a good reason for the screws except to keep the drum located when the wheel is off? Any thoughts out there?
Steve H
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2013 Posts: 137 | Job is all done. Drums came off with a little PB and a good hammer. It was pretty standard from that point except for finding a thin paper gasket between the hub face and the drum. NAPA couldn't identify it. I'm guessing it was just to prevent seizing. I used a thin application of anti-seize in it's place: it tore while removing the drum. On to the rear and another learning experience. Any insightful advice will be appreciated. | | |
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