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#1049750 08/15/2014 9:56 PM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 143
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 143
I've got a '50 3100 with a '55 235 out of a Bel Air. No carb on the engine when I got it. I stuck an old Carter on with a manual choke. I just picked up a rebuilt Rochester BC carb cause I want an auto choke. On the carb is a round housing with a "Rich" "Lean" adjustment plate. In the center of the plate is a flared tube connection. I need to know where the tube connects to and where I can find a tube or what size it is so that I can make one. Sorry but it's been way to long since I messed with one of these. Can't find any pics in the manual. If someone has a pic it would help a bunch. Thanks


It never costs more to ask and it never costs more to think big.
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 924
U
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
U Offline
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 924
The tube connection is where the heat "stove" pipe would connect to a piece of metal on the exhaust manifold.

Here's what I asked on it a couple of months ago with my BC carb .

Brad


Wrench Fetcher, PhD
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,221
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,221
The tube needs to be where it gets really hot. The hot air pulled in through it backs the choke plate off. With out heat, the choke stays on. The universal kit wraps around the exhaust manifold. V8's have a tube running into the exhaust crosser port under the intake runners making a loop with fresh air pulled in from the air filter housing. With out the factory intake with the tube ports, the exhaust manifold is next best heat source.

The hotter the air, the faster the choke backs off.

Joe

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 143
J
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
J Offline
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 143
OK, so I know its been 10 months since I asked this question but things have been quite busy and I've driven the truck very little. Anyway, I've got the choke stove on. The kit had a clamp and a "cup" with a hole in the end that I clamped to the exhaust manifold. Aluminum line goes into hole where I assume the heat builds in the cup and is transferred to the choke plate. Seems I can't get the choke to work correctly. The '55 manual says "Rotate choke cover until choke valve barely closes when the air horn is wrapped lightly". Does "barely closes" mean when the valve begins to move from fully open position or just before it completely closes? I set the thing to where the valve was just fully closed. This thing is really running rich so I suspect either I don't have the stove set up correctly or I've adjusted the choke wrong. Any advice? I'll try and attach a pic. Thanks. http://s157.photobucket.com/user/jss1956/media/IMG_0797.jpg.html?o=0


It never costs more to ask and it never costs more to think big.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
W
Riding in the Passing Lane
Riding in the Passing Lane
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,597
Make sure you are getting vacuum at the connection going to the choke stove. Disconnect the tube & put a finger over the out let. You should feel a little suction with the engine running. If not a passage is plugged up or a gasket leaking.


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