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#1049773 08/15/2014 11:40 PM
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 43
T
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
T Offline
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 43
I am in need of the large rubber bushings that are used where the rear leaf springs mount to the axle housing. This is for my '53 3100, anyone know where I might find these? I have looked at several vendors. Thanks.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
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If you're talking about the bushing which is used between the springs and the axle housing, you may have to re-create those. I've never seen them for sale.
Good luck,
Jon


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

twheelock and Jon,

Are you referring to the bushing at the link in my post above?

If not please post a photo of the bushing you are referring to.

Thanks,

Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
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No, Tim...not that one. I think he is talking about this bushing...memory tells me it is a shouldered bushing in two parts: http://tinyurl.com/l8fvq32

Jon


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,482
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
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As long as you have the original bushing in reasonably decent condition, you can easily make your own. Purchase a pound of Flexane 94 (it won't be cheap...probably $50 or $60 in 2014 dollars), but you can make lots of things with it. I've made motor mounts, transmission mounts, O rings for carb to air cleaner seals, etc. Use the old bushing to create a mold using plaster of paris. You will need a two piece mold, and for shouldered bushings like this I've also used a piece of metal or smooth wood for the center piece. If you're lucky you can also use plaster of paris to make the center piece and just fill from the top. Note: The shoulder will facing upward if you're doing this correctly...please don't place it at the bottom as it probably won't fill up correctly. Rub Vaseline on the plaster mold you've made, position the center piece very carefully and if you can figure out how to keep it from moving, you'll be miles ahead. Mix the flexane according to directions and pour into the mold carefully. Leave it alone overnight...give it time to cure really well. Then remove from your mold and you're good to go. I know...the Flexane people will say you can remove it from the mold in something like 6 hours, but my experience is you should give it plenty of time for the reaction to be finished. Good luck.
Jon


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Thanks for the clarification, Jon

The spring seat bushing/seal from Chevs of the 40s is a replacement seal inside a steel bushing (just like the GM replacement part).

Steele Rubber will provide a vulcanized bushing/seat/seat, and Steel also sells the spring seat end-seals.

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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
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Thanks Tim...I see. Each side is a vulcanized center with 2 seal pieces on the ends, isn't it? I recalled it as a 2 piece shouldered bushing, but I will admit I haven't had to look at one for over 30 years. If it is a vulcanized center, you can recreate that using Flexane 94 as well. Just don't apply any Vaseline when you reassemble/position the pieces and the Flexane will bond to metal very well. Making the flat O shaped seals is very easy. I'd do all 4 of them plus the mounts at one time as mixing a tiny bit of the stuff isn't that easy. An old Cadillac I repaired once used a mount similar to this. That was around 25 years ago and I believe it is still doing fine today. I'd be surprised if there aren't examples of using Flexane somewhere on the web with pictures, etc. Good luck.
Jon


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,747
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
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Almost 75 dollars a pound, and you have to make your own casting.

96 dollars each ready made.

Is it just me or does this sound expensive? I hope mine never go bad. But it is two ways to get it done if needed.


Steve H
Joined: Sep 2001
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Posts: 29,269
Originally Posted by Steve_H
Almost 75 dollars a pound, and you have to make your own casting.

96 dollars each ready made.

Is it just me or does this sound expensive? I hope mine never go bad. But it is two ways to get it done if needed.
That is why I use the replacement part from Chevs of the 40s for $27.50/pair. It looks just like the GM replacement part.

In either case, you'd most likely want a set of 4 new end seals, available from Steele for $33.

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S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
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So now there is a price difference of 164.50 dollars. Even I can afford the shipping on that. And no casting. Works for me. Thanks to tcleaderman.


Steve H
Joined: Mar 2014
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J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,482
For anyone interested, I found Flexane 94 at All-Spec for $40.22 a pound and that includes the cost of shipping. Later this evening I'm going to order some. I remembered I need to recreate a part for an antique sewing machine, and this will be an easy way to do it. A pound is roughly equivalent to something between a pint and a quart as I recall. It will be more than enough for several projects like this spring/axle mount. I also prowled around on the web for examples. There are (as I figured) many...several related to auto repair. You can see how one fellow makes a "new" transmission mount for a 1967 Datsun here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/diy-build-your-own-transmission-mount.html
Good luck.
Jon


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end

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