The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline '52 3100 Disc Brake Conversion

Guys, I'm considering adding disc brakes to the front of my 3100 but have a few questions for those of you who have done the conversion. I have a separate front axle with the brakes already on it. What else can I expect to have to do other than swapping the axles? How much stopping power can I gain if I don't add the booster? I realize these are very general questions but the manual doesn't cover an axle swap/conversion. Any tips/advice will be greatly appreciated.

You will need a master cylinder, a distribution valve, a 2 lb residual valve, a 10 lb residual valve.

The stopping power won't be much better, just more consistent.

Thanks for the info Wayne. That gives me a starting point.

Maybe am I confused on the question. But, an axle swap is not needed. Just bolt on the disk brake conversion kit/bracket to your existing axle/knuckle. You must install a proportioning valve and most valves have the residual valve built in. Additional valves are not needed. You must convert to dual circuit MC made for front disk/rear drum setup. I added a booster and love it. But, trans cross member modification is required.

Booster/MC/prop valve

I did this on my 51 Panel. No axle swap was necessary. The decisions needing to be made
include where do you want the master cylinder and booster? In my case I wanted it on the firewall. This necessitated installation of a hanging
pedal brace to eliminate the floor pedals; due to Buick 455 engine and T400 trans. Firewall mount made exhaust a breeze & service access to the master a no brainer.

The kit from CPP included the front axle spindle races to convert from
ball to roller bearing. The rotors, calipers, bearings, etc. are basically from late 70's Camaros; replacements are easy. The only real custom piece is the caliper mounting brackets. The whole thing was pretty easy and combined with the power steering conversion, & tie rod upgrade, it made that old truck drive like a new Caddy!

If you are not swapping engines.. then the under floor replacement for the stock one is just fine; but, as previously stated…...the axle does not need to be replaced.

hope this helps.
mike

Thanks for the info guys. I know the axle doesn't have to be changed. I just came in contact with someone who sold their truck before doing the conversion they planned to do. He had a complete axle with a new brake kit already on it along with other parts (pitman arms, steering gear box,other suspension parts). I bought the whole lot from him and figured it would be easier to drop the old axle and bolt up the new one than removing the brakes from the new axle and adding them to the existing axle. Sounds like I might as well add the booster to get the full benefit of the conversion. Is there any benefit to mounting the booster and MC on the firewall other than easy access to the MC?

No benefit that I can think of. But, it will be a LOT more of a PITA.

That's what I figured David, with changing pedals and rerouting lines. Thanks for the info.

Exhaust clearance was the deciding factor for me. With the pedals, shaft, and
MC gone, I was able to use off the shelf down pipes for the 455 using stock exhaust manifolds.

I don't think exhaust will come into play for me mounting on the frame. I have Fenton headers leading to duals on a 235 with Fenton dual carb intake. Thanks for the thought though Squire. That's something I hadn't considered.