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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 116
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 116
So my 216 was stuck and I've slowly been taking it apart. I'm a beginner but it's working out pretty well. When I got the truck the carb was off and a rag was in the manifold where it attaches to the carb. So I take the head off and the two from and two back pistons are clear and the two center pistons has te marvel mystery oil still sitting in them. My amateur motor mind says that the two center ones are the ones that are stuck because those are where water could've reached the inside of the engine.

So I suppose my question is, is there anything I can do to fix this? Or is rebuilding the only option?

Any other tips are welcomed!


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,159
W
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
W Offline
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,159
Marvel oil has been used by pro's,and amateurs for years. The "New Kid In Town",sounds like "Kroil". I,myself haven't used it,but from what I hear,it "creeps' into rusted rings,like no other product. I had a '49 Studebaker 2-ton,with a flathead 345. I used Marvel,tranny fluid,Diesel fuel,and WD-40,mixed in a "cocktail",and only #5 was stuck. I kept trying to break that engine loose for two years,and finally gave up. A year later,is when I heard about "Kroil". not saying that it would've freed that engine,but I sure wish I tried that,before scrapping that engine. Depending on the condition of your pistons/rings,you MAY be able to free the engine,and use it,without a tear-down,and re-build. Let your engine soak for a couple of days,then try and rock the flywheel back and forth,with a pry bar. Check your 33 and #4 pistons,while applying pressure,to see if you're gaining any movement. If yooooooou don't get results,give the cylinders another dose of "Marvel",and let sit for another couple of days. Try again. If no movement,take a 2X4,cut about a foot long. place on top of the cylinder,and tap it with a 16 0z. hammer,to loosen the rust around the rings,and help the "Marvel" creep into the rings. if the pistons still refuse to budge,you can drop the oil pan,remove the caps from the stuck pistons' connecting rods,and try and drive them upwards,using a chunk of broom handle,and a mallet.You'll need to ream the ridges off of the affected pistons,so you'll be able to remove them,hone the cylinder walls,and install new rings.Good news is,a tight engine will get stuck long before one with worn rings,so hopefully you'll get lucky. Hope this helps.

Last edited by wetwilly5757; 08/07/2014 4:13 AM.

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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,248
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,248
Can you feel a ridge in the tops of the cylinders? If there is much of a ridge then the engine will probably need overhauled.

John

Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 116
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 116
Thanks guys!


1942 BK 1/2 Ton Pickup
1954 3800 1 Ton Pickup
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,869
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,869
I'm a firm believer in KROIL, but it's not new by any means. I can remember it being on USAF bench stock worldwide 40 years ago. Kano laboratories in Nashville just chose to merchandise it to government and industrial customers for a lot of years instead of wasting a lot of advertising money selling to the general public. It's available in any quantity from aerosol cans to 55 gallon drums, and possibly by the tank carload if you've got a really deep pocket!

www.kanolabs.com

Jerry


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