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#1046776 08/03/2014 7:31 PM
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trying to figure out the use of the tape. I thought the tape was to secure the window to the lower setting channel. The tape I ordered has a grainy looking side and a smooth rubbery side that has a blue backing.can someone tell me what side goes against the glass? also I pealed the blue backing off a little and it is not sticky at all. So the "oil" will "activate" this stuff to make it stick the windshield into the channel? I have read the manual but did not see anything about what side of the tape is which?

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windshield? you're not "sticking" anything with a windshield because it's captured by the frame, so assume you mean the side window glass? modern tape will no doubt be different to what was around 50 years ago. you might want to talk to whoever you got the tape from on how to use it .... I'd put the smoother side into the channel, you might want to use a rubber mallet gently to insure the glass is seated all the way - the oil trick was to make the seating tape swell, I've not used any oil with modern tape and things sealed fine, if you have enough tape to sacrifice, cut a bit off, oil it, see how it reacts, doubt it'll do anything

Bill


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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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The tape I recently bought from Classic Parts has a rubbery/grainy side and a smooth fabric side. I assume the rubbery/grainy side is the soapstoned side described in the Shop Manual. I put that rubbery/grainy side on the outside (not the glass side).

You are supposed to oil the groove in the metal frame and then tap the glass-with-tape into the channel.

There are different styles/compositions of glass setting tape. What vender and part number do you have?

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It sounds like you have cork tape. We never oiled that, just friction fit (with a hammer). The solid rubber tape was oiled (lightly) and usually heated slightly with a propane torch, then push fit the channel or frame on the glass, followed by a few light taps to fully seat everything. Just don't do what a trainee did and use a hammer on the glass instead of the vent frame! Needless to say, he wasn't employed with us long, that was only one of the goofy things he did. John

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The setting tape is "activated" in the heat. After you assemble, put it in the hot sun for a while and it will grip to the window and frame.


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Originally Posted by tclederman
The tape I recently bought from Classic Parts has a rubbery/grainy side and a smooth fabric side. I assume the rubbery/grainy side is the soapstoned side described in the Shop Manual. I put that rubbery/grainy side on the outside (not the glass side).

You are supposed to oil the groove in the metal frame and then tap the glass-with-tape into the channel.

There are different styles/compositions of glass setting tape. What vender and part number do you have?
part 70-716 from classic parts of America.

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Originally Posted by red58
windshield? you're not "sticking" anything with a windshield because it's captured by the frame, so assume you mean the side window glass? modern tape will no doubt be different to what was around 50 years ago. you might want to talk to whoever you got the tape from on how to use it .... I'd put the smoother side into the channel, you might want to use a rubber mallet gently to insure the glass is seated all the way - the oil trick was to make the seating tape swell, I've not used any oil with modern tape and things sealed fine, if you have enough tape to sacrifice, cut a bit off, oil it, see how it reacts, doubt it'll do anything

Bill
yes I meant the side glass of 51 Chevy 3100. OK just got the oil info from all the tutorials and old Chevy manuals.But I will stick with the experts here as far as getting advise on how and what to use, I'm sure the old timers here are far more knowledgeable than some vendors.

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Thanks for the replies, so the glass will be sandwiched into the channel between the tape? I think i may have it now thanks !!

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Originally Posted by Project_area_51
Thanks for the replies, so the glass will be sandwiched into the channel between the tape? I think i may have it now thanks !!
Yes, the tape sandwiches the glass and channel. The nice thing about the door glass is if the channel is a little too loose or tight it can be squeezed or spread if necessary. Its one of those things thats easier to do than explain. John

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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I do not know what kind of tape the original poster has (Classic Parts, I think, as posted in a later post), but the tape I referred-to is neither cork nor rubber.

The tape used by GM was/is very similar to the tape sold by classic parts.

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OK now that I have cracked my first door glass, on to the next. I have to do one of the 2 things either change the tape (don't think this will help much) or widen the track. Once I measured the thickness of the glass and the thickness of the tape no way it will go in the track.Has anyone widened the track in a uniform way? I mean by keeping it the same width all the way? And if so how? My glass simply cracked as I applied pressure to the glass and the track, i put on gloves once I heard what had happened to others. I wedged a screw driver under the bottom of the track to pry it into the glass as i pushed the glass from the top.

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Tape comes in different thicknesses. I used urethane window sealant instead. The advantage is no water leaks in. You set the spacing of the window with some small pieces of tape to center it. Mask the window and the channel. Then squeeze in the urethane, wipe off the excess, remove the tape and let it set overnight. Flip it over the next day and repeat. Don't set the glass in a full bed or you will never get it out if you need to.

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Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Sorry to hear of your problems.

Are you using original glass (did it have markings low on the glass - original glass would have markings). If the glass is not original, it might not be original thickness.

Did you buy the tape for door-glass or vent-glass, depending on which glass you are setting?

I recently (last month) successfully did 5 pieces of glass: 3 door and 2 vent.

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Originally Posted by GWWirth
Tape comes in different thicknesses. I used urethane window sealant instead. The advantage is no water leaks in. You set the spacing of the window with some small pieces of tape to center it. Mask the window and the channel. Then squeeze in the urethane, wipe off the excess, remove the tape and let it set overnight. Flip it over the next day and repeat. Don't set the glass in a full bed or you will never get it out if you need to.
excuse my ignorance but i'm confused. Are you setting the glass out of the door? And if so how are you getting the lower channel to mount to the regulator? The lower chanell is inside the door, what are you sealing from water getting in?

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Originally Posted by tclederman
Sorry to hear of your problems.

Are you using original glass (did it have markings low on the glass - original glass would have markings). If the glass is not original, it might not be original thickness.

Did you buy the tape for door-glass or vent-glass, depending on which glass you are setting?
I recently (last month) successfully did 5 pieces of glass: 3 door and 2 vent.

Not using original glass. (Classic parts of america.) I think I posted the part number for the tape in an above post they only showed one type as far as I know "don't quite remember now" I will go back and check.

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OK the 7016 "51" door glass tape is 1/16th thick
the 7015 "50" and under door glass is 1/32nd thick
the vent glass tape is 1/16th thick.
looks like the best shot would have been the wrong year model number that is 1/32 thick ????

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I have a 46 but using urethane keeps water out of the window channel, helps prevents rust in the window channel.


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