The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Haunted Powerglide?

Hello to the Forum. This is my first post after some months of reading through the informative threads here. Alas, I come hat in hand, having recently traded my Harley for a '65-'66 Chevy C10 (Fleetside 250 I6 with 2 speed, automatic, aluminum Powerglide) which is now presenting an issue that has me and my mechanic scratching our heads.

Briefly, here are the facts:
Although the truck (and transmission) was running perfectly, I recently noticed drops of transmission fluid leaking from the front and rear seals. I decided (since I am new to the truck) that it was time for a rebuild. I gave the truck to a shop that has a stellar reputation for working on these trucks and they gave the truck back to me one week later clearly running even better than it had before. (More power and very smooth.)

This past Saturday I set out from Brooklyn, New York on my way to vacation in Maine -a 12 hour drive. I was on the interstate about four hours, cruising along at 65 mph, sometimes 70, even 75, feeling as good as good can be, and the truck was sounding as happy as I was. Then I stopped to pay a toll. When I accelerated to leave the toll booth, all I got was a revving of the engine. She would not go forward. I tried reverse and she would not reverse, offering the same revving as I got trying to go forward. I tried for a few minutes more, but it was clear that she was going nowhere. A truck gave me a push for a short distance to get me off of the turnpike and into a nearby lot. While I waited for a tow truck, I gave another try and the transmission engaged perfectly, but she would only move about 100 feet and then just rev. In the couple hours that I waited for my tow, I started her up several times and each time the transmission would engage -but only for some several dozen feet of travel forward or backward. Then she would just rev. At no time were there any noises or other clues as to what could be bothering her. Of course I checked the fluid -it was fine. The fluid was perfectly clean and without any burn odor and exactly where it should have been on the stick. I went under the truck and saw that the linkage was not damaged and appeared to move as it should when the gear shift lever was operated. All lines and hoses appeared just fine to my eye.

She was flat-bedded the 200 miles back to my mechanic's shop in Brooklyn where she sat until Monday morning. Monday morning she acted the same for my mechanic as she did for me two days previously.

Around 5pm Monday my mechanic calls me and says I can take my truck. I queried him as to what caused this catastrophic failure of the transmission that he had just rebuilt. He said he "honestly" did not know. He told me that he dropped the tranny and spent most of the day trying to find something. He found nothing. He says he "hit the books" and consulted with others, but no one had any ideas. He put the tranny back together and into the truck with the intention of sending the truck to another shop. But he started her up and put her into gear, she engaged and then drove perfectly! Forward and reverse. He said he then went out driving and drove for a while, at all speeds. He said she performed beautifully. I then took the truck and went driving for a while. Everything perfect. He told me to spend a few more days here in the city, test driving the truck for about an hour a day before I hit the road for a 12 hour drive to Maine. Yesterday she drove a little bit and was still good. But then today I took her out as part of the test driving regimen that the mechanic requested of me. She ran nicely for about 3 miles. At that point, as I was approaching a red light, I heard a slight slipping. A few seconds later, while decelerating for the light, the tranny lost engagement and all I could muster was revving of the engine. I coasted to the side and turned off the engine. No forward and no reverse. No low gear. I called my mechanic to come and get me and then I tried starting her up again to see whether she would move. She did. About 500 feet, and then -when I had to decelerate for traffic, the tranny went out again. I coasted to the side, turned off the engine, waited a few minutes, restarted her, and she went another 500 feet or so when I again had to decelerate for a stop sign and lost transmission. I did this the whole way to the shop -a couple miles. The shop's big kahuna said he is going to bring in a specialist, which will entail a few days but that I should have the truck back by the end of the week. As politely as I could, I requested that the truck not be given back to me without a good test drive and an explanation as to exactly what was wrong. I then walked home in today's 90 degree heat, where the mailman was just delivering my Powerglide Transmissions Handbook. Maybe I should go and drop off the book at the shop?

So I present to this forum the above information in the hope that someone here might be able to tell me what they think the "problem" is.

I hope this post is not a ramble. I would appreciate any comments that anyone here can offer. Thank you. Alden

Sounds like something to do with the torque convertor, either that or the pump. But why it works for so long then quits again.
The transmission fluid isn't foaming is it??
I know they have a low band adjustment that needs to be readjusted after a rebuilt and after a certain number of miles, but that doesn't sound like the problem either.

John

Have your transmission guy check the fit of the pressure regulator valve in the main pump housing. I'll bet he finds a score mark, or possibly just a very tight fit that allows the valve to swell and stick in the open (pressure relief) position after running a few miles and heating up. Polishing the valve housing with some jeweler's rouge and a soft cloth wrapped around a dowel rod in a variable-speed electric drill motor usually solves the problem.
Jerry

John, Jerry,
Thank you for responding to my post. I did not personally check whether there was foaming of the fluid. In hindsight, I would have checked it. I can only hope that the mechanic checked for foaming. I find Jerry's comment interesting. Tomorrow morning I am going to go over there when I expect they will be dropping the tranny. I will ensure that the pressure regulator valve and its housing are examined under strong light and a good lens. I am not a mechanic, but my bones are telling me that the pressure regulator valve is the culprit here. I also want to see with my own eyes that none of the check balls are missing. Seems to me that this is something that can easily happen. Gentlemen, thank you for the attention you have given me. I appreciate it. -Alden

All transmission pumps are capable of producing more fluid than the transmission needs to apply the clutches and bands, lubricate the moving parts, fill the torque converter, and run some of the fluid through the cooler in the radiator. The excess fluid unseats a spring-loaded pressure relief valve and recycles itself back to the inlet side of the pump. If the relief valve happens to stick in the open position, all the pressure is lost and none of the clutches get applied- - - - -no drive, forward or reverse. All it takes is a microscopic rough spot or a piece of debris trapped somewhere in the relief valve assembly to make for an intermittent pressure loss situation. Virtually all transmissions have a pipe plug on the outside of the case where a pressure gauge can be installed with a long enough hose to monitor main line pressure on a test drive. I'd strongly reccomend that type of diagnosis. I've been working on automatic transmissions since the late 1960's and I've done several hundred test drives with one or more pressure gauges monitoring various functions. Good luck!
Jerry

Jerry,
It certainly makes sense that a transmission would have such a pipe plug access for monitoring the main line pressure. I somehow doubt that my mechanic performed this test. But I will be looking to have it done and receive a report of the results. I did not know of this test. Thank you for bringing it up. I will, of course, come back with an update to this nightmare. -Alden

Hotrod is right you need to have the mechanic check some pressures. Jack the drive wheels off the ground and do the tests that way you don't have to tow it. It could be something simple like sucking air. Bad pump, pressure regulator. Are you sure the linkage is moving the manual valve?

Truckrolet, Thank you for responding to my post. When I picked up the truck on Monday, after the tranny had been dropped and torn down for the second time, I was told that no problem could be found. As you can imagine, having just been stranded 200 miles from home due to the tranny failing, I was not happy to hear that nothing was found. I questioned the mechanic like Perry Mason doing a cross-exam in court. However, lacking the knowledge that you guys on this forum possess, my 'cross-exam' was obviously weak. I was mostly mollified by the shop promising me that they would come and get me if the tranny stranded me again. But in the back of my mind, I did not trust the tranny. After receiving the comments that I have received on this thread, especially those concerning the pressure valve, I am beginning to question the competence of my mechanic. I am going over to the shop in an hour or so, taking with me notes that I gleaned from this thread, and I am going to insist on the shop performing the tests suggested herein. The shop guys may not like a customer "telling them what to do" but I feel entitled in light of what they have put me through. You will recall from my initiating post above, that I brought them the truck with a perfectly working tranny which was leaking from the forward and rear seals. I had just driven that truck to Brooklyn from Maryland. She was running beautifully. I thought I was being wise in going ahead with a rebuild. Now I am regretting that decision. -Alden

That Powerglide is one of the easiest automatics to overhaul.
I don't remember what pressure taps are there, but for sure mainline pressure can be checked and will tell you if the pump is putting out, and what the reg valve is doing. Could there be a torque converter to pump engagement problem? And that could be caused by the incorrect torque converter. Did you hear any strange noises? Lots of things can cause your problem. A broken seal ring. I once had an iron one that had an imperfection that let it break after about 100 miles of use.
The intermittent problem is more like pump cavitation, and is usually caused by low fluid level or gasket or oring leaking for the suction screen. A worn pump housing and or clearance.
Just some ideas. Seal ring problems can be temperature dependant.

Truckrolet, it is exactly because I considered the Powerglide and I6 to be easy to work on, maintain, etc., that I kept them when I got the truck. My intended use of the truck in the next few years is mostly just to bring building materials from local suppliers to my property where I am building a cabin and a few additional out buildings. Being in a remote area of northeastern Maine, and the truck being my only vehicle, I wanted something that would be reliable and, when in need of service, easy to service. I did not worry about obsolescence of parts in this age of internet shopping. Yet it is a fact that my truck is still in the shop for what is now a total of some 14 days, with veteran mechanics apparently stumped as to what is ailing the Powerglide. The truck -and me, have become the butt of jokes from my family and friends this summer.

I know that intermittent mechanical problems can be annoying to deal with. But it seems to me that mechanics with some thirty and thirty five years of experience should not need so many days to ascertain a problem in a Powerglide. The tests that you and others have mentioned to me, and which I have seen mentioned in the Powerglide Transmission Handbook, should give the answers -if they are, indeed, being performed. Calipers and micrometers should be out and on the table. I am no mechanic, but I would put my money where my mouth is and bet that this tranny could be dropped from the engine within one hour, examined piece by piece within two hours, and reassembled and tested within two or three more hours by anyone who knows what they are doing. What we have here is not a haunted Powerglide, but incompentent mechanics. That is my opinion.

Like I said previously- I already paid for the job. I showed them the suggestions I received from the Forum. I offered to give them my PowerGlide Handbook (which is a really good handbook). If they cannot tell me what the problem turned out to be, I must request my money back and take her to a different shop. In other words, I will not be satisfied with "She's fixed." I want to know exactly what was fixed. Otherwise, there is no sense in ever getting on the road for a trip out of town. Been there, done that. When I was a kid in school (many, many moons ago) merely putting the correct answer to a math problem did not get you credit unless you showed your work. I was stranded on the Mass. Turnpike last Saturday because someone did not do what they were hired to do. I don't like that.

At no time did I ever hear any noises when losing drive. I would be cruising along, happy in my own thoughts, and the truck would suddenly lose drive. The only noise was the remaining revving of the engine. I did notice that the tranny tended to lose drive when I would be decelerating, either slowing for traffic or coming to a full stop for a light. I also noticed that, after shutting down the engine for several minutes and then restarting the truck, the tranny would drive seemingly perfectly until a deceleration. That even a slight decel would put her out of kilter until I shut the engine down again. Theoretically, when the tranny failed me in Mass., I could have restarted her and gotten back to Brooklyn if I could have avoided any deceleration on the way, lol.

My concern now is to find another shop here in Brooklyn to examine my Powerglide once my shop gives it back to me 'fixed'. I want my tranny checked with instruments and gauges by individuals who know what they are doing. Believe it or not, in this internet age, I cannot find Powerglide mechanics in Brooklyn. Maybe someone from the forum would know of a place for me. Thanks for your attention, Truckrolet. -Alden
.

Alden, a lot of drag racers run power glides, and put a lot of horsepower through them. Maybe look for a performance shop that builds racing transmissions. They probably work on and see more power glides, than your local run of the mill tranny shops. Maybe they can help you out, just a thought.

Brian

UPDATE: So about an hour ago the shop called and asked me to come take the truck and drive her some. They had taken the Powerglide out, rechecked everything, performed all of the tests by the book, and found nothing -again. And on a short test drive by them, the issue did not show itself. Agreeing with me, they said they are not giving me the truck back yet or declaring it repaired. They just needed me to give them a hand by spending an hour of my time test driving her and then holding her for the weekend so that she not sit in their lot. They want her back Monday morning. I was fine with that. I drove her about 40 minutes. She performed beautifully. I will drive her more over the weekend.

I don't know whether I want the problem to reappear (and then find the cause) or not reappear (and not know the cause or when it might reappear). I also do not know exactly why they want her back on Monday even if the problem does not show up. But they seem to have a plan, and in light of my general trust in these guys, I will do exactly what they say. However, I do intend on sticking to my decision that, if they give me the truck back and tell me she is fixed and it turn out that she is not, I will ask for return of my money so that I can go to another shop. It just seems to me that three opportunities to repair a Powerglide should result in either a good repair or an admission that they cannot do it. {Edit: But it does bother me that the shop is clearly giving me their best attention and by now the shop could not be making any money.} -Alden

Brian, Thank you for responding. I have been searching for such a shop as you mention for a few days now. I have been unsuccessful. I am in Brooklyn, New York, 11235. I have been using search terms such as "Powerglide Transmission repair". Hopefully, someone reading my posts will be able to refer me to a good shop. -Alden

Brian, taking your advice, I googled 'racing transmissions' and found this place: http://www.skspeed.com/index.aspx
They seem to be what I am looking for though they are not very close by me. Nonetheless, if my shop cannot give me back my truck properly repaired, I will hand her over to SK. Thanks! -Alden

Just a word of caution about getting involved with a race shop. Lots of these guys have no idea how a stock transmission is supposed to perform, so you run the risk of getting a bunch of high-dollar race parts installed that have no business whatsoever in a street application, and some incredibly hard shifts. Be sure to make it clear that you're not going racing- - - -you just want the transmission to perform the way it did 50 years ago! Lots of times a racing Powerglide has none of its original parts installed, including the case!

http://www.fatsco.net/

I've been buying parts for elderly automatic transmissions from these guys for about 25 years. If they can't help you directly, I'll bet they will know of a shop in your area with plenty of experience on older transmissions. They're in "Noo Joisey", so you probably won't have the same communication problems with them that I always do!
Jerry

Jerry, yes, I am familiar with Fatsco. Recently I bought a transmission mount from them. I see no harm in giving them a call. As for SK Racing, I sent them an email of my 'story' and I did make it clear that my truck is for daily driving street use. I will just have to wait until they get back to me. I also requested of them that they give me a referral if they cannot serve my need. My hope is that guys like these will find the ghost hiding in my tranny. -Alden

Alden there is a great old school tranny shop on Fresh pond road off of metropolitan ave in ridgewood queens (11385). The owner is an enthusiast as well. Might give them a call and find out if they can help. D1 Auto Repair & Transmission (718) 417-4500

59ApacheGail, thank you! I will make a note.

UPDATE: Well I just picked up the truck from the shop. I had it home for the weekend and did some driving as the mechanic requested of me, and I gave it back to them this morning. Over the weekend, the truck drove without any problems, though I did not drive many tens of miles. Anyway, none of that matters anymore because when they gave me the truck now they said it is not fixed. They say they don't know whether the problem is a bad torque converter that we obtained from a rebuild shop or whether the front fuel pump is just no good. The only ideas they had were that we can try exchanging the torque converter and if that does not solve the issue, then "something" would have to be done with the front fuel pump -but for the latter, they will have to charge me. They opined that there is a third option: dump the Powerglide and drop in a TH350, which would run me about $1200 "more or less." I did not want to make any decision on the spot -and anyway, they would not be able to do anything this week so there is no need that I decide right this minute.

When I drove her home from the shop, a distance of less than a mile, a sound was coming from her that resembled that of a screw gun when mounting boards of sheet rock. It occurred three, maybe four times, during acceleration, lasting about a second each time. I never heard a sound like that from my truck before, nor have I ever heard such a noise from any other vehicle. I feel irritated. When I brought the truck to the shop two weeks ago, she was driving perfectly -all I had was leaking front and rear seals. I feel stupid now about having gone for a rebuild. (Excuse my whining.)

I have received a few tranny shop referrals. From 59Apachegail and from SK Racing out on Long Island. I had approached SK by email a few days ago inquiring as to whether they can examine/service my Powerglide. But they responded that they do not work on automatic Powerglides. It was my hope that the racing crowd would get to the bottom of whatever is ailing my Powerglide.

What do you guys think? Swap for the TH350 -or persist in rooting out the gremlins from the Powerglide? Swap the shop? And as for the money spent on the rebuild, forget it? -Alden

That "screw gun" noise- - - -does it sound like a small impact wrench, sort of a rapid hammering noise? If so, that's entrapped air in the fluid going through a pressure regulator valve. That indicates the fluid filter is sucking air along with the fluid from the pan, indicating an air leak on the suction side of the fluid (not fuel) pump. Once it's trapped in the pressurized fluid, the air has to go somewhere and the most likely place for it to exit is through the regulator valve.

If the shop is actually calling the item they want to change a "front pump", RUN, do not walk away and don't let them work on the transmission again. An aluminum PG has only one pump. The cast iron models had two pumps, with the rear one driven by the driveshaft so the vehicle could be push-started. Those pumps were eliminated on most vehicles by about 1958.

The TH 350 swap is a Band-Aid fix for someone who can't fix what you've got, and given their track record so far, are you willing to pay them to tinker some more?

I'll need to look in a few hidey-holes, but I believe I've got a very detailed maintenance manual on Powerglides stashed away somewhere. I'd be glad to copy and/or scan some pages if it will help you understand what you're dealing with. Good luck!
Jerry

I like the aluminum Powerglide, it has been a good transmission for me.
John

Good luck! Hope you get it all worked out.

Just a though, you will probably need to have your drive line shorted. I don't think a TH350 is a direct replacement for a power glide. Probably best to find a mechanic that can fix what has already lasted 54 years.


It is nice to know there are others pretty close by. Not too many old truck folks around here.

Jerry, thank you for responding.
From my place behind the wheel and driving, the noise sounded exactly like what you would hear if you walk past a house where guys are inside, mounting sheet rock using battery powered screw drivers. Short, high-pitched, whirs for the second or so that it takes to drive in a short screw. I am familiar with the sound of impact wrenches. I did not really note the distinctive hammering sound that such wrenches make. But I do agree with you that we are likely hearing the consequence of air being in the system. Nothing else could make such a sound with the truck running otherwise well. They had the tranny out today and I suppose they just did a sloppy job of putting it back together and in the truck. I find myself annoyed about it, since it is clear to me that this noise is absolutely the result of shoddy work from today and has nothing to do with the issue that they have been trying to work out for two weeks already. My guess is that the air will eventually work itself out, but what do I know, I am not a tranny mechanic. I am not a mechanic, period.

Regarding their reference to my "front pump," yes, they referred to the PG's pump as "the front pump." I was a little surprised at that because I have just spent the weekend reading Munroe's Powerglide Transmissions Handbook and in it he says the Chevy Al PG's were rear pumped until 1967. However, I do recall from the invoice I got last week that a "front pump" bushing or seal was installed. So, since I have only owned this truck for a very short time in its long, long life, I cannot say for sure exactly what PG I have. I cannot know if it is the original just as I cannot know how many PG's have gone in and out of my truck since 1965. But this is really not what bothers me now. What bothers me is like what you mentioned, i.e., that now, for the first time, they tell me my PG was not a good candidate for rebuild and to swap in a TH350 (at a cost of "more or less $1200.") after I have dropped like $800 for the rebuild, got stranded 200 miles away on the way to vacation, etc. My nerves are getting frazzled.

I am trying to make a wise decision here.

If you give me the title of whatever good maintenance manual you have for the PG I will find and buy it. I have Carl H. Munroe's Powerglide Transmission Handbook.

Thanks, Jerry -Alden

59ApacheGail, I, too, would like to fix that which has been good for some 50 years. But I have seen on the forums that a lot of guys swap their PG's for TH350's. My understanding is that the TH350 does not improve gas mileage or freeway speed. I can only suppose that they take the 350 for reliability or ease of obtaining parts. I do not mind trimming a drive shaft if I have to. I only wish my shop had told me from the beginning that my PG would not rebuild well. Unless.... maybe the shop itself screwed up my PG and made it necessary now for me bury her. Hmmmm.

So where are you in New York? I am in Sheepshead Bay.
-Alden

John, if you have read this thread I would welcome your opinion.
-Alden

I'd say if you decide to go to a different automatic, find a good 700R4, which gives you an overdrive

Bill

Red58, thanks. It was on my mind to have an overdrive. I am new to trucks and only slowly becoming familiar with these kinds of issues. I understand that an overdrive would serve me well on the freeway, is that correct? Better gas mileage? My Powerglide, before my shop killed it, did 70 and 75 nicely. I don't have a tach in her yet, but I suppose my rpm's would have been pretty high. But that should not bother my inline six as far as I know. I have still not come to a decision as to what I will do next. I have to consult with the shops that I have been referred to. I still kind of harbor a hope that my PG can be saved. If it can, I would consider changing something in the differential to improve things for freeway driving. But if not, and I can put in any tranny that I want, it would be your opinion that the 700R4 is better than the TH350? My impression has it that the TH350 is the one more often chosen. But I have not really spent time yet considering which tranny to take. I am really clueless about such choices. And I do not have the funds to make anymore mistakes. I just need a tranny that will go in easy and stay good for a few years. The truck will be a daily driver and local most of the time in Maine, and a few times a year I would want to drive down to NYC to visit family. I want a tranny that would not demand a brain surgeon or millionaire for service. -Alden

The powerglide is a good transmission, whoever worked on it obviously didn't know what they were doing. General motors made millions of them. That shop telling you to replace it with a 350 turbo is just trying to charge you for their ineptitude. A short shaft 350 is the same length as the powerglide. The powerglide is a simple transmission and a competent shop should not have a problem fixing it.

Tommy, thank you for responding. For my purposes, I feel sure the PG is a fine tranny. I just hate to walk away from her now. Do you think I am being paranoid in suspecting that my shop 'ruined' it? Did you see my previous post today about the noise I heard when they gave it back to me today? If I can find a competent PG rebuild shop, I would jump for joy right now. I need a shop that, first of all, can tell me whether she is rebuildable. My shop is telling me that they cannot figure out why their rebuild is not working out. What do you say to a mechanic that says something like that? I am sitting here knocking my head against the wall trying to figure out what to do. -Alden

The 700R4 is 31/2 inches longer than the powerglide, If you do decide to go with an overdrive you may want to look at the 200R4, I think it is the same length as the powerglide. The 700 is a heavy transmission, the 200 is lighter.

I don't think they ruined it. Like I said it is a good transmission and a competent shop should have no problem fixing it. I haven't worked on one in 30yrs. but they are not complicated and are very dependable transmissions. If they took the pump out and disassembled it, they may have put it back together incorrectly, the pump is 2 halves that need to be assembled right for the oil passages to line up correctly.

Tommy, thank you. I understand that both of those trannies could be fine for me, a pleasure driver. I hear that the 200R4 "goes in more easily" but it tends to cost more than the 700R4. But then, the 700R4 will need some accommodating mods. I think between them, I would go for the 200R4. But I will be making phone calls tomorrow to the referrals I got because I first want to see if my PG can be rescued. If it can be saved, then I have to compare their price to save it with the price to swap it for a 200R4, taking into account the better mpg. I have spent much of my truck budget in the last 2 weeks, and finances are now part of the game. -Alden

I agree that your Powerglide should be able to be fixed. If it was me I would be on the phone to Fatsco transmission parts and ask them for a recommendation for a shop to work on your transmission. They are a big supplier of parts for older tranmissions and should be able to give you some shops to contact.

http://www.fatsco.com/contact.htm

Don, I hope so. I have some phone numbers for tranny shops that I received in the past couple days. I have decided that there is no way I can let my shop touch my truck again. -Alden

If you do look into one of the overdrive transmissions, Don't let anybody tell you that you need all kind of expensive modifications. You have a 250 6cyl engine not a 500 HP. race motor. A standard built transmission will work fine behind your engine. I'm sure living were you are, finding a transmission shop that can competently repair a powerglide should not be a problem. Good luck.

Sounds like they stuck your transmission back together to get it out of the shop. Probably decided they were losing money on the job.
The TH350 swap gives you a 3 spd transmission over the PG's 2 speeds. Many complain that with the PG you either are in low gear or high, with low being to low. Personally I find it works well for just normal driving.
Not sure what the differential ratio is in your truck? But like my car has a 2.73 ratio, so to go with a 200R4, I'd need to install something a bit higher 3.55 or 3.70, something of that nature to benefit from the overdrive in a 200 or 700R4.

John

John, Tommy, thank you for responding. So I have been on the phone with tranny shops here in Brooklyn and I have found one that is really not far from me and which seems like a reputable one. Over the phone, they listened to me give a brief rundown of what has been going on with my truck and my shop and he said, "Bring her in." After talking with them, I will have to make a decision about what will be done with the tranny. May the Lord help. -Alden

Here is some information from Trifive.com . The info is a little old from an old manual but still good information on powerglides. It may apply to your situation . I am sure you are running a later glide but the troubleshooting may apply

https://app.box.com/shared/dmcutnumq0

Not sure what is in your neighborhood for old car clubs. If you can find one they often have good contacts for reputable shops from paint to mechanical . Good luck.

Triplep, thank you very much for the info. I will keep it handy. Today I found a tranny shop to fix my tranny. It is going to be costly, but it is going to be fixed. At least that is what they told me. They have an excellent reputation around Brooklyn for transmissions and after meeting them today I handed over the truck feeling confident that I made a good choice. Regrettably, I wasted some $1500 dollars with the first shop, flatbedding, and gas to learn that I had made a poor choice. Now I am going to spend another $1500 to have it done right. Sigh. The Truck Gods have not been kind to me this summer. -Alden

You can get a 350 turbo from Summit Racing Or Jegs for a lot less than that, and swap in out yourself.