The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Reducing Acrylic Enamel

How much reducer? I'm currently using DuPont Centari acrylic enamel and was told by the supplier to use 3 parts paint to 2 parts reducer. The label on the can says 8 parts paint to 2 parts reducer. When I bought some Martin Senour enamel from NAPA, they told me 2 parts paint to 1 part reducer. Do I need a viscosimeter? Is there a rule of thumb about paint/reducer ratios?

I just use lacquer thinner, 3 to 1 ratio, and get good results. The guy at the paint shop told me to just use lacquer thinner, it is cheaper than dupont reducer.

Brian, I very seldom go in this direction but the guy at the paint store that tells you to put lacquer thinner in enamel is a MORON and should NOT be trusted with ANYTHING in the paint business.

You NEVER put lacquer thinner in enamel. Lacquer thinner flashes very fast and you will loose gloss, and adhesion. That type of "Junior Chemist" advice is what causes problems for you and the paint manufactures reputation. It makes me sick to think that some MORON behind a counter is telling people that. You can tell him that for me. The paint manufacture that he "represents" (they rip thier hair out over MORONS like that) would be happy to have him at one of their "Product knowledge" courses at their tech schools. They usually pay the tuition, meals and sometimes even the hotel room. THAT is how important teaching proper information is to them.

PKNAUTH, Acrylic enamel is not rocket science no viscosity cup is needed. MARTIN SENOUR and DuPont are two different things so you will get different info there. But as far as what the guy told you and what is on the can is simple, he is talking "old school" and the label is talking "new school" LOL. Because of the VOC rules in the "National rule" the solvent (VOC) had to be reduced. It works like that but can be a little harder to spray. If you add a little more reducer (closer to the recommendation of 3:1) you will have an easier to work with mix.

I have not shot Centari in YEARS and I hate to tell you to do anything different from the directions on the can. I would spray it out and see at 8:2. If you are having a hard time to get it smooth make it 7:2 or even down to the 3:1 (6:2 and 3:1 are the same). Acrylic enamel is pretty forgiving in this department, you don't have to have a specific amount for it to work, the "window" is pretty wide.

What gun and tip size are you using?

Martin - don't sugar coat it man. Glad to have a a topic on the stovebolt page where perhaps the most appropriate label you can associate with someone who spouts moronic statements is indeed "MORON".

MARTINSR--
I'm using a Sharpe Platinum 7.5 cfm with a 1.5 tip. I can see from your reply that I have been over-reducing it by using a 50% reduction. And the supplier recommended a 66% reduction, which I never did use. I'll compromise next time and try 33%.
By the way, the advice you gave me about upping the air pressure to my gun certainly gave me much improved results when I shot the cab yesterday. I'll have a lot less color sanding to do.

Martin
Thanks for the tip. I am sure glad I put in my post about the paint jobber telling me about the lacquer thinner, if I had left that out, you would have been calling ME a moron. I feel chastised enough. Guess I should get the proper reducer and repaint?

That paint also comes with a "stir stick" that you just have to fill up to each line, adding paint, reducer and hardener to the lines.

Brian, I am sorry if I sounded off at you. That is one thing that bugs me to no end. The people representing ANY product should know a little bit about it. You, the consumer are not supposed to know every thing. I know that when I go to buy something that I know little about I have to rely on the salesman. Today I bought some wood for a shed I am working on. I had bought the last ones at a "McHome" store. I walked in and grabed what I wanted, I didn't have to know what they were called. So today I brought a short piece into the "real" lumber yard and showed it to him. I told him I wanted four 8 footers of this. And asked him what it was called, so I would know next time. He hit it with his knuckle and said "I think it is pine" I asked him what it was called, stud grad or whatever. He didn't know, huh? He then said it may be fir, huh? I asked him how much and the pine was three dollars while the fir was two dollars each. I said give me the fir at least I will learn something if it is not the same. I learned alright, the fir was JUNK. It was rough as a log and looked like crap. I was the consumer, he knew nothing, so we were both guessing. That is wrong, he should have known that, and told me, this is cabinet grade (or what ever it is called) and it is smoother and higher quality, if you want it that nice, buy the pine.

Sorry you had to listen to my [censored] and moaning. But I know how it feels to be led a stray.

You don't need to remove anything and repaint. That may last for years. If it doesn't, you'll know why and you can repaint it then.
Good luck