The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop How to remove top on filter canister?

I'm trying to figure out how to open up the oil filter canister on my 235 (58-62). I took out the top bolt- but the top doesn't budge.

Is it supposed to rotate, or lift straight off? I tappend it all around with a rubber mallet, but not seeming to make a difference.

Truck has sat for years, so i'm sure its stuck- just not sure which way it "should" come off.

thanks!
Ben

All the ones I remember, the heavy Stamped Top came straight off once the Top-Center Bolt or Tee-Handle Bolt was out...no locking quarter-turns or the likes.

They do tend to stick sometimes, and or to have old, Black Rubber Seals which can sort of hold the Top firm somehow.

Small Block of Wood and a Ball Peen...might show it the way.

Rubber mallet may be too soft. Plastic or hard rubber would be better, or the wood and ball peen hammer mentioned above. There should be a spring between the lid and filter top so watch out. May want to put bolt back with a couple threads engaged so when it does pop you won't have a mess.

There's a moderately heavy spring under the lid that holds the filter element down, and it can launch the lid across the shop when the rubber gasket lets go. Leave the top bolt engaged 3-4 turns before you tap the lid loose!
Jerry

LOL- Good info on the spring!

I'll hit it a little harder tonight and see if it pops loose.

What is the regular procedure to drain these out. Do you really have to suction all the old oil out each time you change this filter, or will it drain out once the canister is removed?

Thanks-
Ben

Many housings have a drain plug. <CLICK> For those that don't I've heard momma's turkey baster works well.

The standpipe in the center of the canister has a 1/16" orfice halfway up the pipe that keeps the filter from draining all the way and also controls the rate of flow through the filter when the engine is running. The canister won't drain below that point. I've opened up filters on engines that haven't run in 20 years or more and they're still half full of oil.
Jerry

Here is where the level rest on mine.

...pic...

Not sure if it matters, but the filter on my truck is set up differently. The hose on the upper part of the canister is to the front. The bottom hose goes to the rear.

If it's wrong, it's been wrong for many, many years. Will have to snap a pic when I get home. When the FLAPS couldn't help me with new hoses, I ordered from Carter. The one to the front is almost uncomfortably tight.

Most have the Inlet on the side

...pic...


Return on the bottom

The normal setup is for the line at the middle of the canister to attach to the same port as the oil pressure line, near the exhaust pipe about 4 inches up from the oil pan rail. This forces the oil through the filter element from the outside. The oil gets filtered either way, but the line routing is simpler if the return line exits at the bottom of the canister and goes back into the engine at the forward port almost at oil pan level.
Jerry

Here's a pic of mine. Is something wrong?

Cannister

Lines to block

Side inlet goes to front hole in block. Bottom goes to the back hole where the oil pressure attaches.

I'm not really sure how I would change the orientation of the can.

You would need a longer line from the side of the canister to get that fitting attached to the pressure source. Most stovebolt filter canister side fittings face toward the rear of the vehicle and make the line routing simpler.
Jerry

Strange indeed. I've never seen one with the side fitting on the forward side. I guess it would filter wouldn't it? The oil would flow from the inside out rather than the outside in but would still pass through the filter media.

I've got the same canister in my COE. I can't get the lid off either - feels welded almost. I can remove the top bolt and see the spring below, but have no idea how to open this up. My inlet and return hoses come out of the block just above the oil pan and return behind the up-draft carburetor, but I really can't see the return line entry point at the block.

Well, that's just swell. Glad I spent the $30+ on the catalog hoses.

Unless I'm missing something, there's no way to turn it around. The little bracket that accepts the u bolts is part of the cannister.

Guess I can keep my hoses and find another can. Or keep my can and find new hoses. Frustrating, but glad we had this discussion. I would have never guessed.

I think thats a car canister?

I bought one off Ebay like that
Has the inlet port in the front.

By using a couple of 1/8" pipe 45 degree elbows and some 4 inch brass nipples, the inlet line could be routed to just above the intake manifold, then the flex line can be adapted to the pipe nipple. It would let you use the lines you've already got and take some of the stress off the flex pipes.
Jerry

Top came off last night... took the bolt loose- one tap and it popped.

Guess my tapping the day before loosened it up :-)

Thanks-
Ben