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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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| | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 66 | Now that I am retired decided to put a 46 together that I had sitting apart for the last 25 years. Have the engine apart rods and mains are good, honed the cylinders and put in new rings, replacing the cam and lifters. My problem is I have the new lifters from 25 years ago but they have slight surface rust on them some cleaned up easily with oil and Arkansas Stone should I replace the just the ones that have slight pitting in them or should I replace them all? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | Interesting question... I wonder if there is any corrosion inside of them??
John | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 66 | No the insides are clean pulled them apart and clean them in mineral spirits. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | I would need to see them, but I have used lifters with minor pitting before with on problems.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | AH! oil holes, (think knurling) just make sure the major dimensions are polished, you should be OK, But as Dave says, I would have to see them. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | That was kind of my feeling.... I'd probably use them. But I figure everyone would be grabbing the pitch forks on here....LOL
John | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 66 | Posted pics on photobucket link. My major concern is getting it broke in with the new cam. I heard that you can wreck a cam in the first 20 minutes of runningif it isn't set up right. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | pre Dave has a good presentation on his website about the hydraulic lifters.
John | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | You want a good cam pre lube to coat the cam /lifters with. Also pre oil up the engine before starting by removing the distributor and using a rod ground to fit into the oil pump and drive with a drill.
Also could pump up the lifters with oil before installing.
John
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 215 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2014 Posts: 215 | Follow the cam break-in instructions of any aftermarket cam manufacturer. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 66 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 66 | I am using permatex prelube on everything and plan to preload the lifters before I install them. When is the best time to get the motor running rite after I get it on the frame or should I wait until the truck is almost finished? The way I am going hopefully it won't take me another 25 years? Thanks Wayne | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | I ran my in as soon as it was ready..... just wish the truck was. LOL
But as long as you are not going to leave it sit for another 20 years, it should be okay. Figure it this way, after you break it in, you can always start and run it occasionally.
John | | |
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